Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know where you can get a shift light for the R33.

i dont want to buy another tacho, i just want a simple shift light that will go off at a level step by me. i know car quest have a pivot one, looks damn hot but its pretty darn expensive.

im a electronics engineer, i can make one, but when it comes to the part of mating it up to the ECU of the car, i would have no clue. so id just rather get a good one with instrustions.

anyone who anything?

if i get a good one i will try and copy it so i can produce some ones for cheep sale if anyone is interested?

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13433-a-shift-light/
Share on other sites

I have a Axas Combat Power Shift Indicator which cost me $100 second hand. It's a great little inditcator and you don't have to stuff around with connections to coils etc etc. Just hook it up to your cig lighter and it takes alternator pulses and interprets those. Very accurate and easier to install than others I've seen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13433-a-shift-light/#findComment-268211
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
    • Sounds like it is rotational in the driveline. CV? Tailshaft CB? Also.....didn't you just pay to have that bit painted and put on the car?
    • Yeah, when I dialled my idle down, given how much time I spent idling at the lights in traffic on my daily commute, the effect on overall fuel consumption was absolutely noticeable.
×
×
  • Create New...