Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently put new rims on my car and the offset is 32mm whereas it should be 38-40mm. I did notice a difference in the handling but this might simply be due to the worn out tyres on the new rims.

So does the incorrect wheel offset affect handling or is it just my tyres?

thanks.

yep , both.

The offset can make a difference ( though 6mm shouldn't be that dramatic ). Large diff in offset can cause tramlining , pulling of the steering under brakes and a bump steer type situation.

More than likely is the tyres that have taken a wear pattern based on the car they came off.

New tyres will prolly make all the difference.

cheers

Ken

I also heard the a big change in offsets can lead to early wheel bearing failure, more stress on the suspension components and possible handling problems (tramlining and the like)...

I'm currently looking to put wider wheels on my car, but finding a balance between wheel width, clearance and offsets is proving difficult...:D

My old car had a really wide set of volk rims, they looked great but the handling was much worse with them on...

Dave

Originally posted by Simmo

off the top of your head ken do you know the offset of the 32 gtr? and do you know the offset of the 34 gtr rims?

Cheers

Simmo

Off the top of my head the std offset is around 25 which is about what the R34 GTR's are as well.

Most of the aftermarket rims bring it down to about 15-18 to help fill the guards.

As I said to you when you bought it , the R34 wheels look good but still a little too much in , especially on the front.

Cheers

ken

Originally posted by Demon Dave

I also heard the a big change in offsets can lead to early wheel bearing failure, more stress on the suspension components and possible handling problems (tramlining and the like)...

I'm currently looking to put wider wheels on my car, but finding a balance between wheel width, clearance and offsets is proving difficult...:D  

My old car had a really wide set of volk rims, they looked great but the handling was much worse with them on...

Dave

Yep , yep and yep .

All of the above is true and when you can find the perfect blend of *to the edge* rim clearance while still maintaining good handling , no tramlining or heavy steering , I would love to know.....

Cheers

Ken

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 馃槂
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
  • Create New...