Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys im currently rebuilding my Rb26 as the topic states. Im pretty sure i'll have to rebore the block. Was hoping just to hone but probably just end up re-boring. Anyway the car is very stock at the moment but incase of future plans i was thinking to go to forged internals. Is it worth it? Planning mild performance work for sure with a chance of maybe one day getting a little more serious with it. Also plan to fully balance the bottom end. Who has done what and what were the outcomes...

Thanks in advance,

Deren

:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134515-rb26-rebuild/
Share on other sites

Well to start, i wouldnt be putting the stock ceramic turbos on there regardless.

Depending on the power aims, the stock rods might be perfectly fine.

So, what is the target?

Yeah i know its risky. As for power target..To begin with only mild say, 200-250rwkw. But i really don't know where i will stop. Whats the safe working limit of stock internals?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134515-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-2500715
Share on other sites

Its not risky, i would say its damned near silly to be honest.

If it lets go and the dust gets into the bore, you'll be paying for another rebuild.

You gotta ask yourself if its really worth it... which IMO it isnt... so change turbos now.

400+rwkw if built correctly will last rods/crank no problem.

If not, then, its like playing the pokies mate :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134515-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-2500724
Share on other sites

Hmm..Yeah one already let go just after imported the car. However i was lucky. Another threw a tip of a blade...still lucky, but i guess my luck has to run out eventually. What would you suggest for replacement turbos. I had planned to use GT-SS kit one day...Thoughts? Its very cheap on Nengun for the kit. Also I noticed in your last post you only said the rods/crank will stand that power. What power will the stock pistons withstand?

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134515-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-2500734
Share on other sites

Stocker pistons will "hold" the power the GT-SS puts out... IF street driven. If track... then i would put better pistons in there, stocker rods/crank are perfectly fine.

As its apart already, do the pistons mate. Its not worth the hassle later on.

GT-SS is what im using aswell, its perfect for a streeter GTR. So much response everywhere its amazing.

But do them in conjunction with the rebuild.

If you wanna track it, at around 300-330rwkw its hard to say that it will last forever being i've seen motors die around the 300-330rwkw mark with decent tuning...

Its more the constant high RPM thats killing them.

Thats enough for me tonight... too many beers :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134515-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-2500759
Share on other sites

Im rebuilding mine at the moment and Im using Arias Pistons, Eagle Rods, King bearings, new N1 CRANK, WATER & Oil pump plus alot of other gear with HKS 2530's after market cams ect

aiming for around 500rwhp before I had 400rwhp on stock internals which had being rebuilt once before already

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134515-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-2502570
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.
    • That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.
    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
×
×
  • Create New...