Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i went to a well known performance workshop in melbourne on friday after work with a list of mods that i wanted done now i have the cash saved. They asked me though they will tune ANY ecu they 'prefer' to use autronic which they also coincidentaly sell there. I know everyone will recomend a product they make the most money on, but i just wanted to know if anyone has used them on thier skylines and if so how much they cost. I just don want to be overcharged because after having a very quick look through www.autronic.com i didnt see any prices so i dont know wat is acceptable to pay for the product?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134667-autronics-ecus/
Share on other sites

Autronic is a very good ECU, i use them. I would say Autronic and motec are in there own league, then pretty much everything else is below them. Motec is better for some cases, like they can use any trigger disc where autronic can not (you will have to sway yours for one that works with the autronic.

As for prices the new SM4 i would say you could pick up for around the 2000+ mark maby bit more bit less depends who you know. Also depends on such things as trigger discs etc.

What do they want to charge you for it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134667-autronics-ecus/#findComment-2502746
Share on other sites

What are the mods?

Whats the intended application of the car?

Whats the power goal?

Whats the budget?

etc etc.

As you said, they sell it so they will reccomend it... but doesnt mean its the best thing (cost wise).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134667-autronics-ecus/#findComment-2502776
Share on other sites

What are the mods?

Whats the intended application of the car?

Whats the power goal?

Whats the budget?

etc etc.

As you said, they sell it so they will reccomend it... but doesnt mean its the best thing (cost wise).

Power goals for now about 250rwkw, mods are exhaust, cooler, fuel pump injectors, hiflo turbo , they wanted $1800 for it plus around $600 to hook it up and tune it.

Edited by tezflow
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134667-autronics-ecus/#findComment-2502805
Share on other sites

I love Autronics, but for your application, i would use a power fc, save you over $1000 straight up.

So do u mean that autronics are not necessary for that sort of power levels and those sorts of mods? I would assume though that since they seem to have alot more functions than the PFC you would be able to get a much better tune out of it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134667-autronics-ecus/#findComment-2502917
Share on other sites

Total overkill dude IMO.

And your in Melb to start, so anything other than replacement ECU's can cause a headache if you get pinned by the EPA or otherwise.

In melb i would only rever use a replacement if its a street driven car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134667-autronics-ecus/#findComment-2502920
Share on other sites

PowerFC will do the job fine.

Autronics and Motecs as mentioned previously are much more thorough and complete ECUs where you can control nearly EVERYTHING to do with the car including antillag and NOS.

I run an Autronic SMC with optional CDI. Never had a problem except for cold start. This is what makes the Motecs better IMO but I couldn't justify the extra $$$ simply for a cold start option.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134667-autronics-ecus/#findComment-2503049
Share on other sites

yeh for ur application the power fc will be fine, mine at 245rwkw was perfect, now running 500rwhp and basically having mostly custon parts on the motor i run an Autronic SM4 with CDi...awesome ecu no doubt about it, but yeh bit overkill for what u are aiming for IMO.

ben...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134667-autronics-ecus/#findComment-2503371
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
×
×
  • Create New...