Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to do a complete replacement of my brake fluid but i have some questions for the experts;

1. Do i just pump it all through with the pedal after replacing the fluid in the resevoir?

2. How will i know when all the old stuff is out (and how much will i need for R32 GTR)?

3. Does the ABS unit need any attention?

4. Is it ok to use high temperature fluid (Motul 600) in a car that does the occasional track day but is mostly street driven?

Cheers,

Kot

What I've been told:

I want to do a complete replacement of my brake fluid but i have some questions for the experts;

1. Do i just pump it all through with the pedal after replacing the fluid in the resevoir?

DO NOT pump it through. Jack the car up on all four corners. Simply open the bleed nipples and let the fluid drain under gravity
2. How will i know when all the old stuff is out (and how much will i need for R32 GTR)?
When the fluid stops flowing, top up the reservoir, and let the new fluid flow through under gravity. Helps if you use different coloured fluid, otherwise you have to basically guess. Close off all the nipples, then do the normal brake bleed method.
3. Does the ABS unit need any attention?
Nothing out of the ordinary.
4. Is it ok to use high temperature fluid (Motul 600) in a car that does the occasional track day but is mostly street driven?
The temperature resistance of the brake fluid can't be too high, ie high temp fluid is better than lesser temp fluid.

If you simply pump the pedal you will suck air back in as you release it.

The only way to pump fluid through is in this sequence:

1) open bleed nipple

2) push pedal 2/3 of the way to the floor (NOT all the way you can root your master cylinder seals if you do)

3) hold pedal at that point

4) close bleed nipple

5) release pedal

repeat. obviously you need 1 person working the pedal and 1 person opening and closing the bleed nipple.

a simple gravity bleed is much simpler you just jack the car up evenly, whack a bleed hose on and open the nipple, then wait until you see new brake fluid (you'd want it to be different colour to the old stuff).

start from the corner furthest away from the master cylinder (ie the rear left) then the next closest (rear right) then left front then right front last.

I would always do a gravity bleed unless there was a reason why that didn't work, or i was in a hurry and had extra help available.

Edited by Kinks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back in January, I noticed my car felt noticeably weak. I had the injectors cleaned, which seemed to solve the problem -- until now. Recently, the car suddenly lost power again while driving. Suspecting the injectors, I brought it to the mechanic. He recommended replacing them entirely, saying the current ones were getting unreliable and fiddly to work with. I could not find a direct replacement for my current injectors. The closest match I found were 440cc injectors. This led me to look into the possibility of upgrading -- and of course, that would mean remapping the ECU. From my research I found: The OEM Part numbers are 16600-72L20 and 16600-72L21 Both the RB20DE and RB20DET use the same 270cc injectors. There are much better options out there over the old OEM injectors. Nistune could be a viable tuning option. While the RB20DE isn’t explicitly listed on their site, the ECU is essentially the same as the GTS-T version - just with a different map. The ECU code on mine is listed as supported. One concern is finding a tuner who works with Nistune. Aftermarket ECU like Haltech and Link, but this would be the most expensive choice (and possibly overkill for a mostly stock RB20DE) I admit that I am very new to the tuning scene and would appreciate any insight or recommendations regarding this.   These are some SAU links where I got some of my information from for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380324-rb20de-injectors/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477396-factory-270cc-injectors/  
    • The inspectors are not forensic by any means but if you forge your documents and/or badgings on vehicle parts and are found out, the consequences are just far bigger than if you just run illegal parts. And their job quite literally is to cross reference what parts you got installed and what your papers say you got. Something as silly as your suspension being 1mm too low will fail you. Nonetheless I asked if someone knew the damn pipe and I certainly did not ask for smartassery or underhanded comments, no idea why you need to be told this. Great way to waste both our time.
    • As useful as you explaining what forgery is... But then again, I wasn't aware your inspectors were also forensic experts and inspect nameplates on each component to confirm everything is original. They must inspect roughly 3 cars a year at that rate. You're right though, my comment doesn't help you in anyway, so I'll go talk to my wall now. Cheers. 
    • Say that to the guy that is going to fail your inspection or tow your car for illegal exhaust modifications. If you have anything else useful to say, please go tell your wall.
    • You must be fun at parties. 
×
×
  • Create New...