Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just purchased an r33 series 2, and want to install 2 x 12's.

I used to have a hatchback with subs, and ideally want to hear subs direct, with the back seats down, and minimal interference from the metal etc. I dont think this is possible?

I have briefly looked in the boot - and noted metal which looks like part of it could unscrew?

as for the seats - I think i am pushing shit up hill.

I know I wont be able to match the sound quality of a hatchback layout, but I would like to know if it is possible?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134720-subwoofer-installation-in-r33/
Share on other sites

you could take out the back seat if you really wanted too and use it as a 2 seater?

your biggest problem from other peoples accounts is your spoiler and windows rattling

i have a white 96 s2 with the same spolier and aparently it rattles like all f**k with 1 10inch so with 2 12, ouch! you can fill in the spoiler with bog or something and it helps alot

have you got a good set of splits and 6.5 or 6x9's in rear with a decent 4 channel amp? if not, start there and worry about subs later.

Me 3!! I puting 2 12" typr r's or 1 12" type X in mine but cant decide on install design im thinking...

2 subs:

one on each side false floor for amp

1 sub:

sub facing back corner on left hand side with amps on rack on right hand side

It would be really usefull if we had a thread specificaly for posting pics of you own installs and im sure othere would agree!

The Autobarn in Goldcoast at Bundall sells custom boxs resonably cheap. For the r33 gtst's they fit in the back corners by the tail lights and leaves you with buckets of boot space. I got one in mine with a alpine x 12 in it and it sounds smick. from memory theyre bout 250 a corner but dont quote me on that im goin there in two weeks if anyone wants me to double check or let me know and i will email some pics around

interesting...

I would have though that with any subs in the boot - for an r33, it would sound poor, because the sound gets muffled by the back seats & boot seperating metal. In commodores for example, there is a least a back seat arm rest, which directly exposes the boot. In this case, the difference when the arm rest are down versus up are big. This is what I am getting at. This is why I am asking this, because it is a big difference in sound quality.

When people say they have installed subs, can you please mention if your install has subs which are heard direct versus.

Jai Jai, when you say you have done it, do you understand what I am trying to acheive? Do you hear them direct? Please help me out with as much detail as possible.

you have to remember it is not only the design of the box, but how the design of the box suits the accoustics of the car.

You used the classic example of the commodore, seats down or boot open you gets stacks of bass, seats up or boot closed you get nothing.

The subs might be the best subs in the world, the box might be the right design, the right size and made with the best materials, but it does not suit the accoustics of the car.

An R33 can be made to sound good, and that can be either for sheer volume or for sound quality. It just takes a clever design.

The boxes that Autobarn sell for example are ok for use, why? they effectively load the woofer accross the width of the boot meaning that the sound wave from the front of the woofer is longer and therefore bass can be produced.

In english..

If you fire your subs straight at the metal backed seats, ala commodore the sound is killed before a soundwave can be produced. Open the seat or the boot and the wave can be formed producing a sound we call bass.

Loading a speaker means firing it at a durface to create a greater effect. This can be done in a r33 relativly easy by firing the subwoofer accross the width of the boot.

Now, when you are using two, there is a slight trick to it, dont fire the subs directly at eash other. You can have what is called accoustic cancelling.

Think of it like this.

You drop a rock in a pool of water. It creates a wave. If you drop a rock of the same size weight etc a certain distance away you could produce another wave.

If the high point of one waves hits the low point of another it would in theory mean the water is still.

So, with the woofers, aim them at a slight angle facing the front of the car, it only needs to be 5 or so degrees, just enought so that they are not facing directly at each other.

Bang, no cancellation.

Now, volume or sound quality.

Sound quality you will need responsive speakers with a moderate amount of power and most likely the subs will be turned down considerably from their maximum potential.

Volume, or the typical street system.

High powered amps, woofers and good cabling will yeild great results, You can do things like "swiss cheese" that removable metal plate, or remove it completly ( may effect vehicle structure), remove padding from the back of the seats etc. But you will end up with a system that is loud, clear and will be heard.

So, theres a couple of tips and my 2c, i hope you read it all, it took me a good 3 or 4 minutes to type this out.

frx have you listened to yamaha (old) yst800 and newer yst1200 etc downward firing subs (in home audio). the nature of the "killed wave is lost on me when i listen to these subs. they fire at a base plate and they seem to be a very decent sounding and reasonably priced sub.

can you elaborate more?

frx have you listened to yamaha (old) yst800 and newer yst1200 etc downward firing subs (in home audio). the nature of the "killed wave is lost on me when i listen to these subs. they fire at a base plate and they seem to be a very decent sounding and reasonably priced sub.

can you elaborate more?

I think you will find that even though the sub fires dowwards it is not mounted hard against the floor plate, it is raised above it and creates a gap between the face of the woofer and the plate.

You will also find the yamaha's are ported to help with bass reproduction.

My example was talking about vehicle applications where a subwoofer is mounted hard up against metal with little or no gap.

frx thankyou for your response I really appreciate it.

This is probably going to cause a lot of argument, but I have drawn a boot schematic, which depicts the best layout for subwoofers in a r33...

r33bootlayoutlm9.png

This is my interpretation of what you are trying to say frx.

mate, thats the idea.

As for those that may wish to debate/argue etc.

YES, i have simplified it for the forum

YES, vehicle accoustics are more complex

YES, designing a great system takes time

NO, I am not going to write a 10000000 word essay.

  • 3 weeks later...

As for the commodore thing. I have a commo at the moment (For sale) the sub and amp package I have in it, when set in a certain spot, sounds like utter shit.

I was ALWAYS told by people, put the sub hard against the boot, firing at the guys behind you, you will effectively rebound the sound against the wave heading out the back of the boot. But hey... This didn't work quite right for me. I had to actually move the sub about 20CM back from this point, to get the best volume. Now, when sitting in the car, opening the boot, causes me to actually loose bass volume, Why? I'm not getting the addition of sound waves. As for folding down the back seat, doesn't really do a shit load either, except prevent the whole car from shaking... (Makes a slightly cleaner bass note)

It's all about the acoustics in the car (As noted before) the BEST way to find where to mount the sub perfectly, is to actually position it in the boot in box, shut the car (As if you were driving) and have a listen to a song. Then move the sub, until you find the best position for your style of music and your sub/box combo.

As for removing the metal part behind the seat, it's actually illegal, as the boot in an R33 HAS to be sealed from the cabin, due to the fact that the battery is in the boot (Release of hydrogen gas under recharging conditions)

Hydrogen is not really toxic in the amounts that would be produced by a battery.

Hydrogen is more more likely to explode before it would poison anyone and there are plenty of ignition sources under the bonnet if that was going to be a problem.

My main concen would be that this bit of metal is structural.

Removing it will reduce the crushing strength of the vehicle in event of an accident and also the torsional strength through the rear axle line.

If the metal sheet was removed and replaced by some diagonal braces the original strength of the vehicle would be more or less unaltered.

It could also conveivably be argued that the speakers installed in the cutout of the metal sheet are stronger than the original metal and no strength is lost.

Would depend on the installation and might be something best left to the experts.

Leadfoot, have a look at your ADRs, if the battery is in the boot, the boot must be sealed from the cabin, yes, because Hydrogen is explosive, and it's also a LEAD acid battery... :)

And I never said anything about poisoning in my first post. But the main part of the ADR stating that, is the fact of hydrogen gas being released.

Ah yes those ADR boys.

Sorry, nothing personal. I suppose I was just laughing at the irony of how poor the seal is between the boot and cabin in an R33. Hydrogen is the fastest diffusing gas known to man and will move throughout the enitre car within a matter of minutes even through the smallest hole.

Sometimes I just laugh at some of the rules these people come up with, however I suppose they are designed to protect the masses.

As you say it is probably the acid that is the greater concern.

I must admit we have had a few battery explosion incidents in trucks over the last few weeks from poor jump starting practices. In one case acid was sprayed 30ft away. In an R33 that could make a real mess of the boot and stereo gear. A good reason to attach the jumper leads to the terminal points provided under the bonnet rather than on the battery.

Leadfoot, have a look at your ADRs, if the battery is in the boot, the boot must be sealed from the cabin, yes, because Hydrogen is explosive, and it's also a LEAD acid battery... ;)

And I never said anything about poisoning in my first post. But the main part of the ADR stating that, is the fact of hydrogen gas being released.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...