Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok. The said RB25DET takes pride of place between the strut towers of a 97 Stagea. Car was originally designed to be all show no go, but... stuff it. Lets go.

Im sure we've all sat down to figure what the best bang for buck performance upgrades would be.

Exhaust. - 3" turbo back. Probably a BATMBL or BOs Important dump, 4" (?) highflow cat., resonator for 3-4000rpm, cannon muffler, something with a decent note.

FMIC. - 600x300x76, with 2.5" Aluminium piping, Through GKTech.

Highflowed standard turbo. (would sell my working turbo, and buy a highflow.) Had my eyes on yours, alex- I knowll you'll be reading this.

Computer (not sure whether to go piggyback or full replacement)

Should i be upgrading injectors?

AFM? A Z32...?

Cams? Ive heard good things about Tomei Poncams. Adjustable cam gears....? just the exhaust, apparently...

Do i NEED a pod filter, or would a K&N panel in the factory box be adequate?

Does a CAI make a difference on an intercooled engine, seeing as the air is just going to get heated passing though the turbo anyway? Id like to keep the inlet tract as straight and short as possible.

post-24895-1158500678.jpg

For $5000 (give or take $1k) what would be the best upgrades? needless to say, slotted rotors and S2 calipers with greenstuff pads are on the way...

Hope i get some decent answers, ill leave you guys with it.

upgrade your brakes before you make it go any faster

ok thx read the post bwud.

Power Fc + Z32 AFM + Injectors

Theres approx $2500 gone

They arent exactly the first things you would do though, are they.... no...

I had looked at power fc's, and have used one with the commander unit in a 180SX, i like the thought of being able to make modifications on the fly, with the knock sensor etc, injector load readout and so on, but dont think they have one for the RB25DET auto...

first things would be intake (cooler/airbox and cai) then exhaust. beyond that the stock RB25 ecu is dodgy so some type of fuel/ignition controller at minimum is required, so pfc with z32 afm (if it can work with the auto) or perhaps a safcII/ITC combo. upgraded fuel pump is generally a good idea at this time too.

there are no suitable stand alone ecu's for nissan auto

So the best bet would be a piggyback system or similar? most places ive spoken to have changed the subject fairly quickly when it comes to the ecu, which is why i thought id post here. and they all had different ideas of what i should do first, which is what im after.

Say someone said "heres $5000 to spend on your engine". what would you do to it?

turbo back exhaust $800

generic intercooler kit $450

cai set up $300?!

bosch/walbro fuel pump $250

SAFCII/S-ITC $500

DBA slotted rotors $400

GCG Hiflow/2nd hnd HKS turbo (low mount, ie GT2535) $1500

turbo timer $100

EBC $400

Thats $4700, then add tuning on top of that, $2-300 maybe?!

thats a quick list, hope it helps.

Edited by _8OO5TED_

the problem is that auto gear logic is in the main nissan ecu and all stand alone engine management systems for nissan are manual, so it will be harsh the auto box. you need a piggyback system

I think the lack of Power FC for nissan autos is simply cos there isnt a big enough market. Most people modify manual vehicles. They may be thinking they wouldnt sell enough to be worth the research and developement? Ive read in the stagea forum that there may be something in the works, but i assume it would come at a premium.

What is a good piggyback system to use? GReddy e-manage or something? computers are one of many things in my "not my strong point" category...

ok, well if you go the BOS dump and cat, then a cat back 3" system you are looking at about $1000-$1500 for that.

then $400 for a cheap cooler.

anywere from about $1000-$2000 for a turbo.

for the ecu you have a few options. they all work out to be about the same money. they are a greddy emanage ultimate, pfc or safc2/sitc combo. for any piggy system you'd really want a remapped ecu to base it on so that you don't have rich and retard mode. that setup will give you the best driveability as it should be close to the standard gear change (unless it was altered in the remap). then using the safc2 you can alter the amount of fuel going in, and run a z32 afm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
×
×
  • Create New...