Jump to content
SAU Community

Cv'd Half-shafts In The C210

Tony1981

By Tony1981,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tony1981 Explorer

Tony1981

Posted
Posted

After reading through some of the C210 posts i was thinking of swapping out my UNI'd half-shafts for CV'd ones, I have a complete 1985 4-Door R30 Skyline to pick at,

Is it possible to just swap over the rear struts, swing arms and half-shafts but leave the diff in place - I just would prefer not to have to remove the diff from my C210, as removing diff's isnt all its cracked up to be :-),

I was thinking i would probably not have to many problems bolting in the swing arms and struts from the R30, its just if the bolt pattern was changed on the half-shafts (ie...... for UNI's 4 bolts were used and for CV's 6 bolts were used) i made need to swap over the 180 diffs aswell,

Anyone know?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
V8skylineMAN Grand Master

V8skylineMAN

Posted
Posted

The geometry in the r30 is more advanced than the C210, so bolting in half of the suspension components isn't a great idea. The only way to do it to drop the rear cross member out, semi trailing arms and all.

you can swap the shocks/springs or not, they are interchangeable either way.

That should help,

Jason

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tony1981 Explorer

Tony1981

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What effect does dropping the entire rear suspension from the R30 and slapping it into the C210 do?

Is there any castor/camber effects (i assume thats what you would call it on the rear wheels),

Do i increase or decrease the track?

Another query - i have read through these forums and noted that people have said that R30 front struts will bolt straight into the C210,

Why is this prefered?

Are the struts different?

Are the brakes bigger? (looking at DBA they both seem to use a solid rotor expect the FJ20 version of the R30),

Are the front and rear shocks interchangeable from an R30 to a C210?

Now onto the steering stuff,

I have an R30 and a C210 - both have power steering, the C210's box is mc-f#cking-massive in comparision to the R30 box, does anyone know if its a straight bolt-in prospect from one model to the other?

Has any converted Rack'n'Pinion into a C210? as in a bolt-in???

Link to comment
Share on other sites
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Not 100% sure but don't C210's have Chapman Strut rear ends like a 240/260Z ? If so the DR30 semi trailing arm IRS won't fit . Off the top of my head DR30's had the shortest large diametre R200 CV half shafts so worth a look . The challenge will be getting them to bolt up to the C210's inner axle flanges ie not the diff end the other end . Need to see which axle bits (ie the bits supported by the wheel bearings) are available . Maybe some of the DR bits wil mix and match . Talk to Stu at SWR , they live and breath Z's .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tony1981 Explorer

Tony1981

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not 100% sure but don't C210's have Chapman Strut rear ends like a 240/260Z ? If so the DR30 semi trailing arm IRS won't fit .

Nah mate, the only cars ive ever seen with Chapman struts are Lotus's and Zeds - the Skyline has the same rear suspension setup as an R30, same as a 280zx it looks like as well,

I have a 1985 R30 Sedan and a 1978 C210 Sedan - the track is different on them, its about 20mm different from tyre centres, the R30's rear end is wider,

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
YO880 Mentor

YO880

Posted
Posted

not quite DR30 stuff, but i had a cv conversion just installed by SWR into a C110 skyline..

i used:

late 260Z stub axles

custom adaptor plate between stub axle and half shaft

280ZX turbo half shafts (4 bolt)

R200 Differential.

i got the stub axles and half shafts from Z shop in SA, but i wouldn't bother in future.. they sent me half of the wrong parts and i ended up having to buy the right parts again..

it all fitted, though the stub axles had to be machined to fit the 240k. it is very very tight, but it works! it probably wouldn't be so tight if i went with the SWR adaptor, but i went with one i already sourced (intended for a 260z conversion)

pictures?...

http://www.project240k.com/images/displayi...m=12&pos=10

Link to comment
Share on other sites
YO880 Mentor

YO880

Posted
Posted
Abit off topic, sorry tony1981...

YO880, are they konig rewinds on ya 240k? If so, how much, where from and what do they weigh?

Cheers

nope, they are Watanabe RS-8's in magnesium colour with polished lip, and cost around $2500.. no idea what they weight.. but 2/10's of bugger all!

http://users.tpg.com.au/tpot/RSWatanabeProducts.htm

email Miki, he is a very good man to deal with! but it is best to know exactly what size, offset, pcd etc. you need.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      GReddy Injector Help!

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Unless there's something particular about the Greddy manifold's injector holes that I'm not aware of, those injetcors look to be totally wrong. They would absolutely want to be spaced up to get those long snouts out of the runner. Which, I think, is not usually the way that that problem is solved. I think the problem is solved by using the correct injectors, which would be much more like what Andrew posted.
    • ChoppedSpots
      GReddy Injector Help!

      By ChoppedSpots · Posted

      Thanks for the reply, So i've continued playing around, and fitted the injector adaptors onto the injector, the fuel rail is not able to be mounted now as the injectors sit a bit further out. I suppose the point of the adaptors is so that the injector nozzle isn't so deep into the intake? I suppose 1mm extra on the o-ring would do it but still can't mount the rail onto the intake haha. Waiting on a reply from Aeroflow I'm sure there's something stupid that I'm missing...
    • defari
      Spotted - QLD Skyline Owners

      By defari · Posted

      EMJ33 or EJM33 - west end
    • TurboTapin
      GReddy Injector Help!

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • MBS206
      Does anybody use the Firestryker or Element sticks?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
×
×
  • Create New...