Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

guys all the details on the product are there the picture i have is all i got

As for the PM i was asking for people to PM if they are a definate in or not . So if they are in i will send them the bank details. There is nothing to hide about anything on this product . Its just a HID kit at a good price and also comes with warranty

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134840-hid-kits/page/2/#findComment-2515900
Share on other sites

Well there is only one way to build a trader rating...

Im keen...

PM bank details please...

H1 - 6k for my R33 please...

Cheers Col

NOTE: Just confirm that H1 is the low beam for R33 yeah???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134840-hid-kits/page/2/#findComment-2520644
Share on other sites

Well there is only one way to build a trader rating...

Im keen...

PM bank details please...

H1 - 6k for my R33 please...

Cheers Col

NOTE: Just confirm that H1 is the low beam for R33 yeah???

r33s use h1 for low beam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134840-hid-kits/page/2/#findComment-2520962
Share on other sites

What sort suits s13 silvia headlights? Low beams? The ooo ooo style headlights? If you can find out for me - put me in for a set of 6k:) Thanks.

buddy your gonna have to take the bulb out and find out because i wouldnt have a clue what kind of bulb it is

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134840-hid-kits/page/2/#findComment-2527771
Share on other sites

question if i go for a really hight heat range will it discolour my headlights over time?

not to sure but if you go high temp bulb the colour is a blue or even purple and you have got a good chance of getting defected

the best ones to get are the 6000k and will keep you out of trouble

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134840-hid-kits/page/2/#findComment-2530704
Share on other sites

question if i go for a really hight heat range will it discolour my headlights over time?

The globes themselves are 35W which normal halogen lamps are 50W or more, the Kelvin (K) rating of the globes has to do with the "Color Temperature".

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134840-hid-kits/page/2/#findComment-2530981
Share on other sites

higher kelvin rating means more energy needed thus more heat created?? or am i an idiot..lol. what wattage are these bulbs rated at. im able to change bulbs later on right. whats the price for another set of bulbs? thanks for putting up with these noob questions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134840-hid-kits/page/2/#findComment-2533422
Share on other sites

higher kelvin rating means more energy needed thus more heat created?? or am i an idiot..lol. what wattage are these bulbs rated at. im able to change bulbs later on right. whats the price for another set of bulbs? thanks for putting up with these noob questions.

i think they are 30w or 35w bulbs also you can change the bulbs when they blow they are about $70 a pair of bulbs i think

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134840-hid-kits/page/2/#findComment-2534408
Share on other sites

I've been reading up on this and after reading the following page - swap hxxp to http first

hxxp://www.xenonlightshid.com/index.asp

This suggests that ballasts are unecessary for Xenon. So I am now wondering what the ballasts do? Could they be only required for H4 or 9004 or 9007 ie. low/high dual bulbs? Other reading seems to indicate that they are used for dimming.

hxxp://www.universalballast.com/productLines/ballast/hid.html (mentions different metal halide sodium etc) I am assuming plays a part in ignition of the bulb.

So do Xenon really require ballasts?

For 4door skyline r33 series 2 seem to have dual fillament bulbs, though I havn't pulled them out yet on the 4dr the headlights are not smooth but refractors instead. High beam comes from the same bulb spot when looking from the front.

Edited by Edge
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134840-hid-kits/page/2/#findComment-2546798
Share on other sites

I've been reading up on this and after reading the following page - swap hxxp to http first

hxxp://www.xenonlightshid.com/index.asp

This suggests that ballasts are unecessary. So I am now wondering what the ballasts do? Could they be only required for H4 or 9004 or 9007 ie. low/high dual bulbs?

For 4door skyline r33 series 2 seem to have dual fillament bulbs, though I havn't pulled them out yet on the 4dr the headlights are not smooth but refractors instead. High beam comes from the same bulb spot when looking from the front.

Dont be another fool like some people that buy normal globes that say HID etc on them..

Ballasts are technologically complex units. They convert incoming power into a high voltage that ignites and maintains a steady stream of energy to the HID bulb. Without a ballast to convert and regulate the incoming power, the HID bulb will not function. A ballast also acts as a monitor for the lighting system. If there is damage to either the starter or the bulb, the ballast shuts down the flow of power to prevent further damage and exposure. Ballasts are designed to last several years with normal use.
HID (XENON) VS. XENON-FILLED HALOGEN BULBS?

Xenon has become a buzzword equated with brighter headlights. Watch out for imitators! Some bargain basement companies offer Xenon-filled Halogen filament bulbs. These bulbs have had a blue film applied to them. They are marketed as Xenon bulbs. While this may be technically correct, it is misleading. Xenon-filled Halogen bulbs will produce no more light than a standard Halogen bulb, and often less due to the blue coating. These bulbs are not as resistant to shock and vibration (require a filament), and require more power to operate than a true HID (Xenon) bulb.

More correct info here. http://www.jwspeaker.com/hid_information.htm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134840-hid-kits/page/2/#findComment-2546823
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...