Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey gang, it's here in my possesion finally.

Quick question ; headlights in the grille, how do I turn em on?

Apart from that, everything is perfect, very happy with my purchase.

picsorban!

err.... next to the headlights.. try the other switch on the stalk....

Taking a big stab in the dark here, I would say a series 2 stag?

ETA: Congrats on the purchase Matt :( Enjoy your new car :P

Bingo.

Thankyou.

it's filthy at the moment, good wash tommorow, then RWC then slap some plates on it.

I've tryed every combination of getting the grille lamps on but to no avail, so i'm guessing it's globes or fuses!

Today at work, flicking through the paperwork from Shogun, it's detailed that the grille lamps where disconnected for compliance.

Mystery solved.

On another note, how many freakin combinations of headlights do these things actually have?!

I seemingly have two sets of foggies, the headlights with there assosciated beams and the lights in the indicators which again have foglights!!

My highbeams certainly don't come out of the grille lamps.

They come of the main lights.

The only aftermarket lights I have are some yellow fog spotties that seem to be a really flush fit in the DAYZ front bar, perhaps factory option?

They are quite big.

any pics matt? would like to see that front bar if possible.

i'd be calling the compliance workshop and asking them why they disconnectred the main high beam lights as i have never heard of them having to do that?

cheers oxford

.................. general merrirment

LOL - love it... that'd be a damn funny online-gamining or forum name :P

got a few performance mods planned ?

nice car hey, good pickup. Ive got nissan spots in my S1.

pic from compliance 2 septembers' ago:

post-18854-1158909782.jpg

Edited by Tangles

As far as go fast mods go, just doing lowered spring and shock combo, turbo back zorst, fmic, pump and boost controller.

Might even go a highflow, everyone seems to be going on about them.

Full manual conversion, collecting the parts as we speak.

I just want some beef in the mid range and i'll be happy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...