Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK,

Had a noisy third gear. yes. only 3rd. Replaced the box oil with Castrol VMX80 and NULON additive. Was a tad better for a while....

NOW..

This mofo is just getting louder!

Now its 2nd and 3rd are noisy as hell.

4th is WHISPER QUIET!

and 5th is an abortion its that loud when cruising!

Diagnosis anyone? Cost? DIY maybe?

Help me out here.....

Cheers,

Most likely countershaft related, and probably a support bearing close to failure. In 4th gear the input shaft and main shaft are effectively locked together and there is virtually zero load on the countershaft, , which could explain the quiet running in that gear. OTOH, in all other gears, load is passed through the countershaft. Since it was 3rd gear that first started making noises, I'd be guessing the countershaft bearing in the centre support plate is suspect.

This is a geabox out job and you'd best stop driving the car ASAP otherwise you risk big damage if the bearing goes completely (assuming that is the cause - regardless I'd still recommend to cease driving until the cause is discovered). As a first check you could drop the oil and look for metal particles, particularly on the drain plug magnet.

If your lucky and can get away with just a bearing change, your probably looking at $50 for the bearing plus labour, of course. IMHO, in these situations all the main bearings should be changed, which would be $200-$250 at a guess. Of course, while it's down you might want to look at doing the synchros.....depends on the wallet.

As to DIY....depends on your mechanical skills and tools + time.

Sounds like the main shaft bearings are gone.

The quote I got to fix my box was over $1500 for just a few bearings and synchro's and that was just to fix a 5th gear grind and 1st 2nd 3rd gear crunching.

What you need is a good second hand box:

Just so happens there's a good R34 5 speed thats done only 30,000kms for $1500. Thats a good buy if its in the condition they say it is. It will fit straight up.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=135335

The 5spd R34GTT box has the upgraded synchros.

Not 100% sure but the clutch pull might be different than the R33 so you would need to keep that in mind. Might pay to buy his clutch as well.

Your other option is to buy a brand new box from JustJap for $3500. I seriously considered that as well. Thats also the R33/R34 uprated box.

A reco'd gearbox will be like new and will cost you about $1,500+ I reckon..

Problem with buying a second hand gearbox is you don't know how hard it's life is.. why has it been pulled out.. so on.. so forth.. main one is what condition it's in..

I believe the cutch is a pull not a push or whatever it is.. so you'll be looking at more $$'s to fix that issue as well..

I'd recommend reco'in it..

A reco'd gearbox will be like new and will cost you about $1,500+ I reckon..

Problem with buying a second hand gearbox is you don't know how hard it's life is.. why has it been pulled out.. so on.. so forth.. main one is what condition it's in..

I believe the cutch is a pull not a push or whatever it is.. so you'll be looking at more $$'s to fix that issue as well..

I'd recommend reco'in it..

My S1 RECO box was worse than my original S2 box I replaced it with in terms of noise but at least 5th gear was useable. The S1 box probably had a lot more miles on it though. The bearing clearances were not properly set so there is a noticable slop in the drivetrain in going on and off the throttle. There is also a whine for the first 5 or 10 seconds which then goes away. A lot will depend on who rebuilds the transmission. I couldnt find many gearbox places in Perth that would touch it to be honest.

As a guide each synchro set is $250 from Nissan and then around $50 for each bearing. A low km R34 box still has a lot of life in it and is going to be much better than a +100,000 km R33 box. Every part in it will have a lot less wear. Reconditioning the box only fixes those areas that are truly stuffed. That doesnt stop something else breaking further down the track.

The fix for a R34 box is to make sure you get the pull type slave cyclinder with it along with the pull type clutch (as per a GTR).

Hmmm.. interesting leadfoot.. what's the cost of a push type clutch + slave + gearbox you reckon?? about $2,000 all up??

I'm currently weighin up what to do with mine.. I think your correct in what you said about it depends on who rebuilds it..

Hmmm.. interesting leadfoot.. what's the cost of a push type clutch + slave + gearbox you reckon?? about $2,000 all up??

I'm currently weighin up what to do with mine.. I think your correct in what you said about it depends on who rebuilds it..

The R34 box for sale (link previously posted) is $1800 with clutch. $1500 without. He might even throw in the slave cylinder if you ask. I only mentioned it as it sounds like a good buy if it is indeed in the good condition the owner says.

Transport via Greyhounds Busfreight was $70 from Melbourne to Perth which is how I transported mine.

Wrapped it in plastic and tied it to a small crate.

Other couriers I approached were $250 and above and from what I heard use Busfreight anyway.

hey there.

It doesn't matter what gear you're in the main and counter shafts are always turning. I'd be more inclined to say that its the needle rollers under a certain gear. The fact that the sound isn't there in 4th could point to a spigot bearing or the needles where the input shaft mates upto the main shaft. either way you need to have the box pulled out and looked at by a professional.

Cost price or there abouts for 1st 2nd and 3rd gear synchros, springs and keys was around $300 from nissan when I was considering doing my box, bearings can be had from any bearing place in the phone book so long as you provide a sample(if you leave the rubber seals in when installed they'll last longer than the factory ones). If you need your car on the road then you're going to have to fork out some dosh.

I keep hearing about all these noisy R33 boxes and how cruching gears is normal.... well its not they're worn out and need to be recoed or replaced!

cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...