Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls,

can anyone clear the confusion n give me the right answer. My R34 GT-T running around 12psi(goin in for a tune soon) is misfiring occasionaly. Looking for a new set of plugs as its currently running std plugs i believe. Im after the NGK coppers since most have said that the Iridiums r not really worth the $ when u do the change urself n add the cost up. Is the NGK BKR6E the one? I think this is pre-gapped at 0.8 or do i need a 0.7? Is this the right heat range or do i require a 7 or something colder?

Ive done the searches, read the threads n even asked a question there myself but it seems like there's no conclusive answer. In fact a no. of ppl came out more confused than before. :happy: There also seems to be alot more talk about the RD25DET there but im not sure if the RB25NEO requires different plugs. On the NGK site closest listing was the PFR5G-11(something different again) for the GTR. Dont kno if its a R32, 33 or 34. This is pre-gapped at 1.1 n i understand u shouldn't really try n re-gap it down to 0.8 as it could damage the tip and the tip is also no longer parallel.

Just in case anyone needs to know tho i doubt it, mods r Power FC & BC kit, FMIC, turbobak with split, pod, BOV.

Cheers guys n gals.

http://www.ngkspark.com.au/part_index.htm?...ehicle_type.htm

dunno if that link will work.

Your Vehicle:

8/1998 - 10/2001 NISSAN STAGEA 2500 TURBO RB25DET

Spark Plug Part No.

Recommended Plug PFR6G-11

Iridium Option BKR6EIX-11

I noticed there was no R34 GTT so I went to the Stagea with the NEO engine.

That is the stock (1.1mm) gap, sorry I don't know the number for the 0.8mm ones.

Coppers can be easily regapped to 0.8 from 1.1mm. Iridiums can be too but just need to be more careful. No tapping it on concrete to gap it down.

Yes at 12psi you will need 0.8 gap. If you have to go lower to stop misfiring there is something else wrong.

Thanks guys.

I had another look on the NGK site, listed under Nissan Imports is a R34 but only the RB26 motor, plug required for that is the PFR6A-11, couldn't find a Stagea??

Can u just re-gap them with a set of pliers?

http://www.ngkspark.com.au/part_index.htm?...ehicle_type.htm

dunno if that link will work.

Your Vehicle:

8/1998 - 10/2001 NISSAN STAGEA 2500 TURBO RB25DET

Spark Plug Part No.

Recommended Plug PFR6G-11

Iridium Option BKR6EIX-11

I noticed there was no R34 GTT so I went to the Stagea with the NEO engine.

That is the stock (1.1mm) gap, sorry I don't know the number for the 0.8mm ones.

Coppers can be easily regapped to 0.8 from 1.1mm. Iridiums can be too but just need to be more careful. No tapping it on concrete to gap it down.

Yes at 12psi you will need 0.8 gap. If you have to go lower to stop misfiring there is something else wrong.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...