Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my search came up with lots of topics on how to remove, but not if its bad for engine/turbo etc.

my R34 GTT is on 10psi with stock turbo, just recently under heavy acceleration it seems to missfire asif traction control is on (which it isnt) and i get lovely pop pop pop pop noise (while accelerating) towards redline, happens occasionally not consistantly..

could this be the R&R i've heard so much about? but why havent I had this issue before today?....

rich and retard isn't a popping sound. it is just a dead stop in power. it sounds like you have ignition issues, like a dud coil or spark plug. this isn't that bad as it isn't really doing anything except not sparking. it would actually be cooling the cylinder that isn't firing.

i put boost to 11psi, doesnt happen anymore..

no farken idea.

it almost sounds like a rev limiter so it might pop every .3 seconds under the hard acceleration, then just stops.

power seems to die for the .3 seconds, or whatever, boost holds.

either way, problem gone for the moment.

Hmm, I'd go to the dyno and get your fuel ratios checked.

Popping is most commonly because its too rich. Rich mixture is harder to ignite. Then the mixture is burnt after it has exited the cylinder giving a pop. Usually caused by the air flow metre detecting too much airflow, (usually from intake mods like fmic and pod). The EUC adds not just a littlle more fuel, but a lot more. Too much infact as it thinks the excess flow is a problem.

I regard to the issue going away after the boot rise...

I can't say for r34's, but with 33gtst's, it would seem that the fuel pump only supplies enough fuel for std boost.

Your poping might have gone on higher boost because your fuel pressure might be dropping, and themixture is coming back to lean, or at least closer to where it should be.

Anyway, there are 101 answers to this.

IMO minor popping, as long as it is a minor misfire is not going to cause imidiate problems. However, if it is running rich, and you don't do something about it, then you risk other issues like cat damage and washing the bores.

Best best, get it checked on the dyno and then talk to the tuner about a course of action. Most probably ECU, maybe a fuel pump.

Chriso

Wow, I was JUST about to add about richness damaging the cat. Good point!

I have experienced an engine running way to rich and damaging the cat in a 3SGTE, which has the cat IN the DUMP PIPE! Stupid place I know, so more prone to getting damaged I guess... but yeah, amazing how much power you will be loosing if you are both running rich AND have a blocked cat.

I went from 62fwkws to 125 fwkws on that car with hi flow cat + retune.

Edited by psybic
then you risk other issues like cat damage and washing the bores.

cat damage i undertstand, but 'washing' the bores? i didnt know this was possible. my understanding is that running rich only cause rediculous fuel consumption (blocked o2 sensor) and damaged/blocked cat.

unburn fuel will damage the cat if it gets to much..

other wise miss shouldnt have any detrimental affects..

it will also use more fuel

is damaging the cat really that bad a thing? wont it just start to become a "high-flow" cat?

i put boost to 11psi, doesnt happen anymore..

no farken idea.

it almost sounds like a rev limiter so it might pop every .3 seconds under the hard acceleration, then just stops.

power seems to die for the .3 seconds, or whatever, boost holds.

either way, problem gone for the moment.

Id say its a spark problem, weak coils possibly not causing a powerful enough spark. The higher boost level is blowing the spark out. Try gapping your plugs down (requires less energy for the spark) Also 11psi is as high as you want to boost the stock turbo. It wont last much longer above this level.

Its a very common problem, usually coil/sparkplug related. However it could be something else.

Read all about it here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=32356

Edited by Rolls
ahh, no...

it melts and causes a major restriction or blockage in the exhaust system, not what you want.

i guess ur assuming that when it melts u turn the car off and let it set... my guess is that the melted bits will be blown out the arse of the car.

what happens in reality, is the cat will usually break apart into pieces that are too large to go out the exhaust, but they block the outlet in the cat, (exhaust pressure pushes the loose bits to the outlet of the cat causing restriction) and your car doesn't make much boost/power due to the restriction and it can't melt further because the exhaust temps dont get high enough, because the vehicle isn't making any power.

the above has happened on almost all vehicles i have changed cats on, and they aren't all performance vehicles either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I’ve just finished fitting the timing belt on my RB25, following the standard procedure: rotate the crank twice, release the tensioner, then tighten it down. The belt feels tight, and you can see that clearly in the picture below I’ve heard some people say it’s actually better for the belt to be slightly loose rather than too tight, as excessive tension can lead to snapping. So that’s in the back of my mind. What I’m seeing is this:  • At idle, the belt looks fine.  • But when cranking and especially when revving (around 3–4,000 RPM), there’s a momentary flap/flex or flicker in the belt, which I’ve tried to capture in the video. So my question is — based on what you see, is this slight belt movement something you’d consider normal, or am I just being OCD? Could this amount of movement cause sync issues? Or is it just a harmless bit of flex under load?   from what I know belt flap and flex is expected when crank spins up and pull cam with it Would appreciate any thoughts or similar experiences.     IMG_7656.mov IMG_7657.mov
    • I've replaced the front brakes of my NA to 324 brembos and 350z calipers: i'm going for 225/40-18 up front and 245/35-18 in the back. I have Rays 7.5*19 ET35(225/35) in the front with 5mm spacers otherwise the calipers "lock up/ won't rotate". When i use the calculator i come up with 8*18 ET30 for 225/40...... but not sure i get problems with the calipers. Anyone riding around with 18 inch. that can confirm "that it'll fit"? In the back it's 7.5*9 ET30 (245/30) with the 5mm spacers, but there is no problem with the standard small brakes, so i want to take 8.5*18 ET25 (245/35).
    • Lol.. but then.. always come back to a JDM..
    • Glad to hear. If possible, get your tuner to check air's to make sure everything is still where it should be.
    • The problem with FB/Insta/Reddit etc comments relating to cars is simple. You get to ask a question once, and get one round of replies. For things that can actually be answered in a few lines of text, once, it's fine. After 6 hours, your original question is lost to the void. There are no follow ups, additional questions, anything. No project car is ever such a simple list of questions to ask. You need discussion.
×
×
  • Create New...