Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the damage doesnt actually look all that bad to be honest. like, its hard to tell from photos but it looks superficial from what i can see

plus 3k for n/a 33... wtf.... i pay 1,900 for a 33 gts-t... and have had one claim :)

  • Replies 120
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeah damage looks fixable...but glad u walked away from it without a scratch...

But it still needs to be said...if you can't afford the insurance, you can't afford the car....nuffsaid!

What if your gf hit another car in the process?? a merc, beemer or porsche???....tht kinda debt could send you broke for life! have a think bout it....

dude I'll give you $1k for that no worries :)

I see a new contender for the "it'll buff right out award!".. (if only you were a paid member!)

Good to hear you're both alright, and it could have been worse, you could have written off a $50k+ car on your way past..

edit: ni5mo! jinx :)

i dont know much about panel beating or replacment of panels

is anyone on here a panel beater or could anyone recommend me to a panel beater in melbourne.

il post some more pics of the car, like i said im no expert but seriously the car is pretty f**ked

i payed $12,000 for it in may so if 7-9 grand coverd the work i might consider just so i could sell it and then get something else.

im guessing it would need to be panel beated, and a respray also the windscreen replaced and suspension is f**ked, also 2 tyres are gone, oh shit now that i think about it.....im screwd its gone

post-30005-1158846790.jpg

post-30005-1158846823.jpg

post-30005-1158846841.jpg

post-30005-1158846869.jpg

Edited by thorpe84

just car's online quote system is shite... i was quoted over 4 grand for comprehensive for a r34 gt-t but when i called up and talked to a salesperson i was quoted at 2300. I think they quote high to be on the safe side for them. Probably scares lots of potential customers.

the roof is shagged... its a write off...

Main thing is you and your mrs are ok.

Look, may be a tad early but if your gunna strip it i can add some funds to the cause :S theres some things im after for my r33... if you want to PM me...

sucks to hear man... BUT cars can be replaced lives cant, at least you and your gf are alright.

and $3000 for a non turbo? :/

im 17, had a crash, a speeding fine, and its just over 2000 for an R32 GTR :P:rofl:

search around.... and next time, dont buy a car if you cant afford to maintain it, eg. insurance.

hope stuff starts to look up for ya though

i'm just glad you and your g/f are okay, it could have been alot worse...

at the end of the day, cars are replaceable... you and her aren't...

i say keep the wreck, and part out as much as you can, and then take the rest to either a wreckers, or simsmetal... at least that way you'll get a bit of money back (maybe 3 - 5k?)

the roof is shagged... its a write off...

Main thing is you and your mrs are ok.

Look, may be a tad early but if your gunna strip it i can add some funds to the cause :S theres some things im after for my r33... if you want to PM me...

Well depends... if the engine is still good they MAY consider fixing it. I remember few years ago I was hit from behind by a P plater doing around 90 KM/H on Maroondah Fwy (I stopped in time before the lights went red but he decided its ok to go through red and smash into me) I was in a VS Commodore wagon and the back was smashed pretty bad. The roof crumbled up in the back but otherwise the car was OK. We had a newly rebuilt engine. The RACV guys said cos the engine is "new" they will fix it... otherwise would of been a write off.

nagh!!! that's dead that car.

1. You have to catalog what useful secondhand part's right down to the scrap metal for the car you have and move them on Or

2. sell it as a complete wreck which will save you the headache of dealing parts :( and start a new strategy to get mobile again.

A car rolled like that with its crumple zones affected will only really be repaired if its a rarer type and the owner has no other options but to pay way more than its all worth to keep its identity.

Glad you and your le'fem are ok and dont worry plenty of others have have been in this situation

shite

bad luck son

good too see u walked away from it safely u and ur bird

guys with insurance it totaly depends where u live aswell

im 22 driving a 92' R32 GTS-T, no fines, no accidents, been driving for 4yrs,

and my insurance with just car is $2,500 i checked with shannons and there $2,580

mind u i live in western sydney, alot of crime and shootings in my area, car theft and torching of cars so this has really stuffd me up big time !!!

but mate, hope u find a positive out of all this.

P.S ur gf better be doing wateva u want her to do lol :(:D lol

good luck with everything

hope it goes well...

Well, I think a few lessons can be learned here:

1) get insurance

2) include the price of great tyres in the cost of the car.

3) don't let someone drive the car for the first time in the wet on the freeway. Especially if that person is used to driving something like a toyota echo where they have to plant it to accelerate to 100.

At least you are all OK. I know it really sucks, but you should be able to get some part dollars back.

bad luck..

everyone remember with insurance it takes into account a number of things - with the main ones being location and driving experience (you can be 60 on your red p's.. it'll cost you alot).. so unless you live next door to each other it's hard to compare insurance costs I reckon..

Good luck with getting some money out of it!!..

first i laughed - at the title - G A M E O V E R (insert Coin) :laugh:

then i cried - when i saw the damage pics - hand me a tissue. :(

now i've come to terms with it - and waiting for the parts available list. safc2??? :mellow:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...