Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Adam, think I found out what the AC/WG switch is - it appears to relate to choosing either internal actuator or external wastegate.

You running an integrated wastegate arent you, so I guess you would use the AC setting - I can only assume it changes the way the gain affects the solenoid output (difference in sensitivity of a external wastegate vs a integrated solenoid).

copied from a subaru sales website:

The Street Spec Boost Controler or SSBC is an entry level, cost effective boost controller that is very user friendly. There are two available boost settings for high and low boost. This boost controller uses as single solenoid and is capable of handling up to 18psi (1.2bar). The SSBC is 1/4 din size and is compatible with internal actuators and external wastegates.

Call blitz in NSW, they are pretty helpful and may have a PDF of the manual in english (they sent a mate one for his SB-ID)

Ta

Conrad

Hi Adam, I think in the case of units like the HKS EVC its a fuzzy logic unit so yeah it learns your boost characteristics with the end goal of reducing spikes, the SSBC isnt a fuzzy logic one.

The gain adjustment is your main way of setting it up to assure its stable - set the gain too high and it will overshoot, too low and it will never make the boost target in the time you want. I guess its just a matter of striking the balance, and doing some test driving with your boost gauge to get it set up right.

On my previous car, the unichip boost controller was very similiar (no fuzzy logic, just wastegate actuation control in relation to MAP) and it was rock solid and got on boost quick and didnt spike, its just a matter of getting the gain level right I think.

Slayer: I have a Unichip boost module on my car. I ditched it. The Unichip couldn't even hold boost up top. It would drop down and the tuners excuse was it was for 'safety'.

I had it retuned at a later date (different tuner) and this time to get around the 'safety' feature I had a cheap bleed valve setup and it held 1.4bar all the way thru.

Now I've ditched the bleed valve and I'm using the Blitz DSBC. Yet to tune it again so I'm running a measly 1 bar (most of the time)

the DSBC doesnt use the same solenoid though, which is the major part im stuck on...

any ideas? its got 2 hoses coming into the solenoid, and 1 coming out the other side

so you dont have to teach it your boost curve, and the boost levels on HI and LO are preset. so once plugged in theres nothing to configure apart from GAIN. correct?

Adam: The DSBC has two places to put the hoses into it. One to the wastegate (internal/external, doesn't matter, as long as it goes to the wastegate) and one to the map/plenum (boost readout if you will). Labelled out and in respectively.

From above it seems like you're saying there are 3 in the SSBC?

The unit to control boost is similar in both the DSBC and SSBC. Which part do you need help with?

the solenoid itself has 3 plugs

im guessing one is the wastegate, one to the plenum, and one to the inlet pipe

seeing as i dont have a hole in the inlet pipe anymore... ill run 2 hoses to the plenum and 1 to the wastegate

however my wastegate looks like this... it has 2 outlets

The solenoid has 3 plugs. I can't help you there. Are there any markings such as in and out to give you a clue? The DSBC only has two. See http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/blitz_dsbc/ (figure 7)

But your guessing in running 2 hoses to the plenum and 1 to the wastegate makes sense. In the meanwhile I'll ask around, it sounds similar to the AVC-R soleniod (ie 3 pipes).

What kinda wastegate is it? I've always thought you only needed one pressure line to the WG. I'm down on external wastegate experience, perhaps someone can help Adam here.

No labelling on the unit what so ever?

I really can't help and I'd rather not make any educated guesses. Dumb thing to say, but I take it the instructions are useless. I bought my DSBC second hand, lucky for me they have instructions via a Goggle search.

I'm sure someone here has installed a unit like this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
    • To clarify what I posted above, I thought you both had a situation where it cancelled sooner one way than the other.....if it is reasonably even where it cancels in either direction that is probably normal (consider gentle movements like lane changes, you don't want it to need half a turn of lock to turn the indicators off)
    • Son, in this country, that is a piece of Gyprock. f**king drywall. FFS! I also like the autocorrect of trailer to tablet. I was reading it and thing, "what the hell drugs is he on?" Then the photo made it clear enough.
    • SO whats the deal with this issue? I've read a heap of posts from the infinity owners in the US having full engine swaps done under warranty. Most claims are done on earlier cars than 2019 but I'm sure I've come across claims of 2020 models also having this issue. I like the 400r and Q50Red/S but can't fathom dumping close to 50k on a car with terminal issues!!! 
    • The above video is working normally. That is, that's how the right hand indicator should cancel when rotating the wheel left.
×
×
  • Create New...