Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, if i were to change my coilpacks to some new spitfires.....would this mean i could run my sparkies at 1.1mm gap, and still have no missing on 12psi?

Will i notice a good diffeence in power after going from .55mm gap???how does gapping affect performance???

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys, if i were to change my coilpacks to some new spitfires.....would this mean i could run my sparkies at 1.1mm gap, and still have no missing on 12psi?

Will i notice a good diffeence in power after going from .55mm gap???how does gapping affect performance???

........1.1 is crap, dont bother. the sparks u recommended is good .88 is da way to go ....

lol why bother i mean the cars were made for .8 mm so you'd get better performance if their gapped at that with spitfirezzzzzz :sorcerer:

put sparks in ( BCPR6es or wateva the code) is and if your car still dies ... go to repco get a DIY spark plug measuring tool then you can measure em up .....and clamp da gap together youurself ;-) and da wrench is 3 and a half turns.. look on da spark plug packet it tells u it...

and next answer: you saw how gapping affects performance!! KAAABOOOM DIEZ in the arsee... :pirate:

........1.1 is crap, dont bother. the sparks u recommended is good .88 is da way to go ....

lol why bother i mean the cars were made for .8 mm so you'd get better performance if their gapped at that with spitfirezzzzzz :sorcerer:

and next answer: you saw how gapping affects performance!! KAAABOOOM DIEZ in the arsee... :)

The only reason it dies in the ass is the coils cant provide enough charge to spark that distance properly. The bigger the gap the better the combustion and the more power/economy you will get. The biggest gap you can have with no misfire is the best option.

Get new coils and try 1.1, if you get absolutely no missing leave it. If you still do move down to a .8, I wouldn't say the car is made for any particular gap, its made to run the biggest gap possible. On a completely stock motor (7psi ?) I'm pretty sure 1.1 would be fine with the aged stock coils

........1.1 is crap, dont bother. the sparks u recommended is good .88 is da way to go ....

lol why bother i mean the cars were made for .8 mm so you'd get better performance if their gapped at that with spitfirezzzzzz :sorcerer:

put sparks in ( BCPR6es or wateva the code) is and if your car still dies ... go to repco get a DIY spark plug measuring tool then you can measure em up .....and clamp da gap together youurself ;-) and da wrench is 3 and a half turns.. look on da spark plug packet it tells u it...

and next answer: you saw how gapping affects performance!! KAAABOOOM DIEZ in the arsee... :)

If you look under your bonnet there is a peice of paper stuck to the lining, it states the gap to be 1.1mm. So the cars were made for 1.1mm gap. But you up boost, power, etc. then everything else needs to change.

Splitfires, 0.8mm gap and you shouldn't have any issues.

do the coils have to be fuly removed to tape em up? if so, the 2 screws on most of my coils to remove them are f&cked, what will help in easing them up?some crc? i dont want to ruin the thread on them:(

Notice the hex shape on the outside? use a socket :(

They are usually pretty damn tight if they havent been removed in a while, doubt you could get most of them out without ruining them if you used a screwdriver.

Yes you do have to remove them, I dont really see how you would patch them up otherwise.

you can bore the guy out next to you later how combustion works after u thrash him...

Hah, boring you are we? :(

I'm not sure how much of a difference it would make but its worth trying the bigger gap first.

Edited by Rolls

Just remember, running tape around the coils should only be a temp solution! and they may just be worn so tape will have no affect! Like mine!

Some of the older coilpacks have a metal rim around them instead of the 4 screw holes. There is about a 1mm gap between this and the coil. If this is the case its almost impossible to tape inbetween this gap and it will arc to the alloy holder instead. In this gase you need to fill the gap with araldite or some sort of high temp epoxy.

i have an r33 gtst '94 coupe, will this have the older style coilpacks???

regards

No idea, I only just noticed this then when looking at that thread, mine were the older type and epoxy/tape didnt fix mine so Ive got splitfires on the way but it has worked for alot of people.

coils.jpg - style with band around them

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=39044 - style without

what type of electrical tape works best???, i tried wrapping coils with CHEAP tape, and only wrapped with one layer of it, and its still missing. Before i go ahead and spend 550 on some coilpacks, im going to have another go.

One other thing, if i get new coils, would that mean i can run 10psi on 1.1mm gapped bcpr6es plugs?

Few things i noticed,......, my new plugs were already all pregapped to .8mm, and all my old plugs were gapped at around .65mm.....would i have lost power because of such a low gap prior(i never had any missing with the low gap though)

How does lowering gap affect the engine?i mean excessive lowering, which my workshop done on my old sparkies which i heard is bad (.65mm on 10psi :huh:

if you threw the plugs in straight out of the box i can pretty much garentee they will be gapped at 1.1 or atleast thats what ngk or champion or whatever was aiming for. there gaps are probably realisticly all over the place,

I always gap my plugs to .8 but if i wanted 1.1 ide still regap/check them myself and not just throw them in straight out of the box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @DraftySquash @Duncan he's not talking about the part that sits against the radiator support, he’s talking about the lip that sits towards the front outside of the car. anyway I had a look at other cooling panels and came across this one https://justjap.com/products/carbing-radiator-cooling-panel-plate-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-t?variant=37829684134087&currency=AUD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Advanced feed&utm_content=Carbing Radiator Cooling Panel Plate fits Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T (Coupe)&srsltid=AfmBOoonzPDKqe9NgKi5U0AkFc2XvbXETGmNWvfNcyBT5DUZagMYHg9DZ70 if you take notice it’s the same shape.  well thankfully the justjap listing has a description and it says : - Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T Coupe (M/T -07/2000) this means it’s specifically for a s2. S2’s have different front bars to s1 so that lip with the 3 holes are *probably* mounting points for the s2 bar. im not 100% sure but im almost certain it will still fit a s1 bar       
    • Everyone is too used to learning from places like HPA "how to tune" and what to expect at what point, rather than being able to see "The computer says I'm in cell with Row = 8, column =4, and I can see my fuel is lean, so lets add more" Everyone wants "real units", which helps for someone picking it up for the first time and seeing how bad the tune is if they're not used to touching it.   However, I think for most of us who want to play with it, you're 100% right, we're only needing to learn about it for OUR CAR. Which makes it great, and we don't need to care what the real values are, we just need to know which cell it is, that's causing the lean or rich point, or that we want more ignition timing or less. But again, everyone wants everything super you beaut and nearly self tuning, with VE maps, and a billion compensations...   Though then there's me over here when I'm doing reverse engineering work just reading data in hex format that most people couldn't work anything out from. Yet I can see what's going on.
×
×
  • Create New...