Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im Having both fuel pressure issues, and its running like a pig.

constant black smoke and smells like raw fuel from exhaust.

all cylinders running 150 psi.

im guessing q45 AFM might have clagged up.

any thoughts?

S1 r33 GTST

what fuel pump and fpr are you using

also, what is your base fuel pressure at idle set to?

when i installed my sard fpr

base fuel pressure was set to 80psi at idle, so at full boost it was hitting around 100-105psi

wasn't running well at all

whats AFM voltage at idle?

whats TPS voltage at idle?

anything black in SENSOR SW/CHECK ?

confirm you have VH41 selected in AFM table selection

AFM voltage at idle is between 1.85v an 1.92v

THR is at .45V

and yes there is several things that are black in the sensor check

i will take a pic

The fuel pump is switched by the ECM entirely.

When the ECM receives an ignition input but no RPM signal the pump is run for 3-5 seconds.

Once the ECM receives an RPM input from the CAS it will then start the pump back up again.

Its not easy to diagnosis such problems without the vehicle but as people have suggested check MAF sensor voltages and selections firstly.

yeah post up a picture, thats fine

by black i mean the sensor name is highlighted in black, not black dots.

black dot means the relay or switch is turned on, empty dot means its off.

so a black dot in FP1 means Fuel Pump Relay 1 is on

yeah post up a picture, thats fine

by black i mean the sensor name is highlighted in black, not black dots.

black dot means the relay or switch is turned on, empty dot means its off.

so a black dot in FP1 means Fuel Pump Relay 1 is on

post-24852-1159168941.jpg

AFM voltage is very high for idle

2.24 is like half of the q45 throughput

it should be near like 1 or even less

leave it idle, rev it

let it return to idle

repeat that a few times

does the AFM drop to the same normal value each time it resumes idle?

or it does bounce voltages each time it drops to idle

AFM voltage is very high for idle

2.24 is like half of the q45 throughput

it should be near like 1 or even less

leave it idle, rev it

let it return to idle

repeat that a few times

does the AFM drop to the same normal value each time it resumes idle?

or it does bounce voltages each time it drops to idle

new prob

no fuel pressure on my sard rising rate FPR.

pump starts up and runs for a couple of seconds then turns off but know fuel pressure at the engine bay.

3 day old 044 grrrr

I have heard of a couple of 044's being dodgy from brand new lately.

so what happens when your at full boost and the fuel pump stops...

ouch!!!!!!!!

i hope anyone that has a 044 doesnt likes there pistons very much.

instantly engine runs lean and boom...

:angry:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
×
×
  • Create New...