Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can anyone tell me if there is any difference between the auto and a manual standard ecu for an rb2det i know that series one and two are different due to the igniter coil but the main reason im asking is that i have an auto series one ecu running in my s13 rb25 which runs a manual now, will this be causing any dramas that i havent come across yet. Do they come with different maps? or anything along those lines.

can anyone tell me if there is any difference between the auto and a manual standard ecu for an rb2det i know that series one and two are different due to the igniter coil but the main reason im asking is that i have an auto series one ecu running in my s13 rb25 which runs a manual now, will this be causing any dramas that i havent come across yet. Do they come with different maps? or anything along those lines.

yes, they are different. What i know:

- auto has idle up while not getting N-switch signal.

- auto retards timing at high revs waiting for gear-change from auto-box.

I`m sure in first and almoust sure in second.

p.s. btw even Nissan says that R33 auto has 245 bhp and R33 manual has 250 in stock.

put in a manual ecu this afternoon runs heaps better no more dying in the arse totally at about 4500 5000 rpm only getting alittle rich and retard due to the higher boost level (time to tune the SAFC i think) for all those out there who buy a auto engine and loom for a conversion if you put a manual behind it go get a manual ecu in my case the conversion in my s13 was done by someone else and they used the auto ecu and put a manual behind. so in short you can use a auto ecu without an auto but it doesnt run properly.

Im surprised the person doing the conversion for you didnt realise this.

As far as i know, when changing ANY auto to manual (or viceversa) the ECU needs to be changed.....unless its a carburetted car, in which case there would be no ecu at all :D

If you were to put an Auto ecu into a Manual vehicle, yes it will run. But not properly.

However it may be different when it comes to Japanese cars, im not sure....so u may be correct. But as 13thracer has found, putting in the correct ecu has solved his problem. :D

i bought the car with the onversion allready done. and yes the car did run ok with the auto ecu but the manual one is an improvement 100% just general driving it was a lot smoother and more responsive. something for you to try arkon is next time you do a conversion use the auto ecu first then slap a manual one in see if you notice any difference between the two, well it worked for me so im happy i can tune the safc now .

Whilst I agree a manual ecu should be best, its also possible that in swapping the 2 over you have also done an ECU reset (usually done by disconnecting the battery and holding your foot on the break pedel)

Although I have never done this (I use a PFC) I have heard many others claim that the car is much more responsive after an ECU reset as it learns over time and reduces performance.

i did change from a auto r33 skyline auto ecu to a untuned power fc during my last converted car . it was virtually identical . the power fc has a slightly more agressive map than the stock ecu but it is hardly noticable

there were no issues with flat spots or idling issues or retard on the auto ecu . my understanding is that the auto gearbox tells the ecu when it changes gear so as the auto ecu with manual thinks your driving round in neutral there should never be a gear change for retarding.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...