Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know how much it would cost in labour to swap turbo's on a r32 GTR in perth?

I would really appreciate recommendations on which workshops in perth could do this job properly without ripping me off. Besides the cost of the turbos,labour and gaskets, what else would I be up for? I tried searching for a DIY turbo swap, but no joy... cant blame a bloke for trying! :)

Edited by Scratch

I would argue that any workshop will 'rip you off'

there are heaps of competant workshops in perth, do a search, its been covered heaps of times

and yeah, turbo swap on GTR takes some time, even if its a straight bolt on (I assume you have a kit?)

If not, you need to allow for things like gaskets (that may need replacing), studs snapping (hopefully not, rare, but it does happen), silicone pipes and clamps and to top up your coolant.

If you want a quality job, dont try and get work done down to a price, cos in the end, workshops gotta make a few bucks or they wont last long.

there are a couple of places that can do it at a reasonable price XSPEED, TOP RACING ,IMPORTS 101, HYPERDRIVE they are all quality workshops with vast knowledge of imports

there are a couple of places that can do it at a reasonable price XSPEED, TOP RACING ,IMPORTS 101, HYPERDRIVE they are all quality workshops with vast knowledge of imports

If you go Topracing they have moved to a big new shop with 4WD Shootout dyno,New number 94702222.

If you go Topracing they have moved to a big new shop with 4WD Shootout dyno,New number 94702222.

i knew they were on the move as thats the only place i take my gtr for any work but didnt know when lol

Syslink --

N I B (steve ) works at top racing and its the only place i will ever take my gtr for work (after trying another well known reputable place that could not even complete a normal service in one day properly

http://www.topracing.com.au/ < web addy with new addy n phone number

yes, agree wholeheartedly about getting it done properly by a reputable source. I have recently discovered that the oil return lines back to my N1's are piped up all wrong. The result? Another 4-5 hrs worth of labour to fix!

I met the guys from Top racing the other day ( came into my shop for some quotes on PC gear ) they seem like really nice guys and the know exactly what they are talking about. I plan on taking my 34 to them next year when I pick her up for a FMIC kit + extras.

If your adventurous enough, grab a service manual and do it yourself. All it will be is air lines so no liquid will drip out (Don't quote me on that).

I dont reccomend that !

First you need access to a hoist ,

Second its exhaust side so if you break something it will have to go to workshop anyway.

Thirdly there is oil,water and Air systems to deal with and limited room because twin's take it all up.

I did it once my self and never again with out workshop acceses .....m2c

yeah i have the workshop manual, and figured it might be a bit much to attempt on my own. A lot of good feedback on top racing it seems... might call them up for a quote.

yes Ash and Steve will definatly look after you there :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome!  How long have you had it? And what colour is it?
    • "CAD" version 1.0 It will have a 15mm lip around the top for 6 × 5 or 6mm nutserts and fixtures (two on each of the three straight edges), and some pinch weld on any exposed edges, it has three mounting points, one of the power steering reservoir bolts, and two on the rad support, my 120mm hole saw will make short work of hole for the silicone joiner, with ample room for some pinch weld  I've also got enough Carbuilders "peel and stick" heat shield to cover the outside of it at the coolant expansion tank and on the engine side, as pictured, and internally on the lid and where the fuse box is, I've also got some thin, about 3mm, black 3M single sided sticky foam stuff that was left over after sealing some door drafts at home to help seal the lid As for the shape, it "sort of" matches the shape of the fuse box, so shouldn't look to "out of place" The lower area and hole for the intake will need pinch weld with a balloon on it to fully seal the hole and bottom of it, that will happen after it has been fabricated so I know exactly what size is required  Filter service has been trialed,  and so far it was a simple process  Just need to get some alloy, and then head into work to use the guillotine and break press in the workshop Hopefully it should be sorted in a week or two Guestimated outlay will be under a $50 for the stuff I don't have on hand (alloy, 6mm nutserts, the pinch weld, and wrinkle paint) Disclaimer: That's what the "voices in my head" are telling me how the filter box should end up getting done......lets see if they know what they are talking about  
    • Have been polishing up the trailer rims as they had been sitting in the shed for a few years and are really in need of some love. This was after a couple of passes with chrome polish - coming up quite well ✅ .
    • Welcome aboard! Is your Skyline auto or manual? I'm assuming manual. Does it have any mods done yet?
    • Hey mate, the brown and grey plugs would usually go to the TPS, brown one goes on the bottom connector and grey is the top but isn't used unless the car is auto, your TPS looks different to mine though I've got a series 2 engine.
×
×
  • Create New...