Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Im getting a rattling noise at night either in my engine bay or my dash. I can only hear the noise when the boost kicks in and the rattling sounds faster with the more revs the car does.

It sounds like either -

The engine is rattling,

Turbo is rattling,

Dash is rattling.

Im really not sure, sometimes the noise comes from the left side which is where the turbo is and sometimes it comes from the middle. The noise doesnt usally happen in the day but every now and then it does. It also seems that the noise only appears when the car is warm. When im driving the car for the first 5mins or so i cannot hear anything but then once the car is warm it starts to make a noise.

Could it be that once the engine bay is warm my Pod is sucking in Heat and casuing Detonation?

Or that something is loose in my turbo? but noise doesnt happen all the time..

Or that the inside of dash is really loose and im getting random noises?

My mods are:

3 - 1/2 inch Cat back

R34 Turbo - Running on 12psi

Lighten Flywheel

K&N Air Filter Pod

FMIC

Any Ideas or Help would be great!!!

Edited by r32matt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136280-rattling-from-engine-or-turbo/
Share on other sites

Hope its not what I had happen to my RB20 -sounds similar - Big ends 3&5, found rear oil pump screws nearly all out after strip down.

Ignored fluctuating oil press guage as sender fault that is common, but my oil pressure was screwed most of the time.

Get your oil pressure checked...

Hope its not what I had happen to my RB20 -sounds similar - Big ends 3&5, found rear oil pump screws nearly all out after strip down.

Ignored fluctuating oil press guage as sender fault that is common, but my oil pressure was screwed most of the time.

Get your oil pressure checked...

My oil pressue gauge was sitting around the 4 mark but after I put in new Oil the pressure gauge has dropped alot and without acceleration the pressure is really low on the gauge. I just thought the pressure dropped becasue I put in Fully Synthetic Oil. hmmmm

It is probably pretty obvious but I noticed on my car the cover for the fuses inside the engine bay was not on exactly perfect so when vibrations got higher in the engine bay it made a noise which drove me crazy, another noise which occassionally comes on is on the gear knob, cause its an auto the actuall button you press in when wanting to change gears is a little loose when vibrations come into the car or on bumpy rds.

Drew.

Ok, so I took my car for a drive last night. When cold it was driving fine, nothing wrong. Once it heated up a noise started coming from the engine. So im thinking now that its not my dash. The noise comes on during boost (3000revs) but if i put my foot down the noise or rattling goes away at around 5000revs and up. But if i dont put my foot down i can hear the rattling sound up to high revs. Ive reved out my car all the way to 5000 revs without letting the turbo kick in and the motor made no noise at all. Plus the motor sounds fine when idling. Sounds like the rattling starts off slow and then with the more revs it gets quicker until u cannot hear it becasue either the engine is getting to loud or the rattling is going so fast that i cant hear it anymore. During the day today everything was fine, it was reving out beautiful with no noise at all. So im thinking that maybe my turbo is loose but that doesnt explain why its only happening during the night. Sounds so crap at night and so smooth in the day. Could it be a loose turbo or is there another reason for what is happening?

All help would be great!!!

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
    • How old is the battery, it's more likely your battery is on its way out.
    • I reckon you'd get 90% off. My washer doesn't get between spokes very well. Haha! I love my Gerni!  Argh! Steam cleaning has its place for sure.
    • Hey all, I did a voltage test with the car (video attached) not running for 3 days. And here is some interesting stuff: - Battery voltage is 12v (I had the key in the ON position) - Drops to 9.76v while cranking then quickly goes up to 14.5v - You will notice there was a sorta slow start but not as slow as it usually is. - Idle surprisingly was better at just over 1,000rpm instead of 1,100 rpm. - I turned on the A/C, radio and headlights in the video and the voltage remains the same - I haven't cleaned the grounding wires on the chassis yet, that's next. - Battery drops to 12.6v when I turn off the car and wait a bit Seems like I might have a parasitic draw? I do have an immobiliser system which does drain the battery more of course but was wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at fixing? Does the ground wires on the chassis have anything to do with the low 12v?        SAU.avi
    • My lord that is some low oil pressure as minimum in the manual! I guess the big part will be seeing how it changes as the engine gets more spirited use.
×
×
  • Create New...