Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks for all the input guys. Damage was done on piston no. 1. He is a qualified mechanic and has prevously worked at a high performance workshop. He has has had many cars thats he has worked on enter numerous car shows. I dont know why, but he must of cranked it over many times as the valve looks like its been chewed up and spit out! He must of had the timing belt on when he cranked it over otherwise there would be more then one damaged valve. But i was not there to see. How could the valve seat dislodge itself in the 1st place? Cause that is also what he has stated. Hard to tell coz there was pretty much no valve seat left! Other then the broken valve, would anything else in the vavle train need to be replaced? Someone mentioned retainer? Also i have heard that the rods are GTR. Would the force and stress have damaged or weaken it in any way? My friend said that i may need the rod resize which also means a balance bottom end! ouch!

I will take this as an oppurtunity to rebulid my engine with forgies etc. Since the block needs to be honed, i will get oversized forgies (40 thou),

new big end bearings and rod and main bearings. Along with a thicker gasket ( 1.2mm ), heavy duty valve springs and head studs. Any other suggestions and advice/feedback would be greatly appreciated. i have a GCG highflow and NOS kit both still in their boxes along with all other supporting mods. As the GCG maxs out at around 260rwkw ( what a shame coz the engine package can handle way more! ) ive decided to make the most out of my NOS. Love it or hate it boys!!! Any idea as to the max jet size i can run providing the clutch is up tio scratch?

Valve seats don't just pop out, or disappear. Get the fragments and photograph them clearly on the broken surfaces.

Rods should not need a resize unless the bearings have spun and damaged the journals. Get them x-rayed though for cracks. Costs about $20. You would balance it while it is apart. Again, doesn't cost much but doing all the right things adds up. Also get the crank checked for straightness.

I don't see the need for a 1.2mm gasket for the low power you will be running. It will just hurt engine response. Use a stock gasket and O ring the block. Same with valve springs (unless you are using a big big cam) and studs. They are not a normal point of failure on engines running upwards of 300 rwkw and I assume the NOS is just a 50hp shot, so unless you have plans of a big kW engine they will be just bragging goodies.

Forgies are pretty well mandatory in RB25s but I think the Neo is a bit better built considering only a few ringland issues recorded, plus they come stock with GTR spec rods. The head stuff is unecessary unless wanting to rev beyond 8000-8500 regularly and even then the valves will be a limiting factor, as well as the hydraulic buckets. Just putting into perspective why you would need to install such items. I'm all for a completely tuff engine, but only if you will actually use the expensive items.

Damn. I wanted to be the one to tell you that. hehe.

I smashed my ringlands.

With NOS if you are running a lot of it you need pistons with bigger clearances and make sure you have good quality headstuds. How much are we talking? I'd hate to have to drill for bigger head studs.

Also you mention valve springs but not cams. :happy: Tomei type B Poncams work with stock valve train. I don't think you should go any bigger with that turbo. You might like bronze valve guides but for the money I don't think they are worth it unless the aforementioned hit of nos is really big.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...