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Help With Idler Tensioner

sinistaGTR

By sinistaGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Good saving Dan.

Just of note:

I didn't bother with the bolts and idlers after trying to order through Nissan (they required chassis no. etc). Spoke to their mechanics and parts people - they said they never bother replacing if they look in good condition. You can see if the thread looks bad. Unless they come loose then they shouldn't be subject to load anywhere near there tensile or endurance limit.

They have failed in the past. Bl4ck32's went soon after the cam belt was replaced, the bolt simply sheared off. Maybe it was overtightened... who knows. :)

Go to a different nissan that deals with the imports regulary, here in Adelaide both Main North and Grand Nissan rarely require chassis numbers.

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Ben the thread can look just fine, but won't reveal if a fatigue failure is propogating.

Just go to an engineering materials supplier and tell them you need a high grade item of 8.8 minimum and take the old ones as samples.

Rudager Enthusiast

Rudager

Posted
Posted (edited)
process for removing the stud from the block ..

anyone got a nice easy way to do it ?

Well i welded a bolt onto it and then used a wrench, but that's mainly cause i snapped the threaded bit on the end off, whoops.

Other option is two bolts, screw them both and and lock them together then do as above.

Also multigrips work sometimes

Replaced both with bolts, best place i found was a local that deals with truck and tractor spares, plenty of high grade bolts!

Edited by Rudager
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
Well i welded a bolt onto it and then used a wrench, but that's mainly cause i snapped the threaded bit on the end off, whoops.

Other option is two bolts, screw them both and and lock them together then do as above.

Also multigrips work sometimes

Replaced both with bolts, best place i found was a local that deals with truck and tractor spares, plenty of high grade bolts!

sweet, thought o the welding option, wanted to see if there was an easier way ..

phee Experienced

phee

Posted
Posted

Quick question about the same thing... Just called:

Bearing Industries

Seven Hills Rd (cnr Station Rd) Seven Hills 2147

(02) 9674 4322

And and Idler and Tensioner is going to cost me $101.20 incl GST and freight. The catch is they only post through Aust Post, which means it is going to take a week to get here (Darwin) and my engine is going to be put back in the car Monday week. Is the Idler, Tensioner and Gates Belt one of the last things to go onto the engine?

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get this gear up here sooner???

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

LOL @ Darwin shipping. Lived there a couple of years and always got the week to 6 weeks line on delivery from down south. :yes:

Funny that overnight is still overnight though......although I've had a lock bar take 2 weeks 40 km across Melbourne.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
Troy, aren't all RB tensioners and idlers the same?

Want able to confirm it. So needing the car back on the road and runnign ASAP for the rally i just got one thru Nissan...only to run out of time and didnt change them...so they sit in a box. So will compare, anyone want to pay me $220 for mine before i check? ;)

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