Jump to content
SAU Community

Unichip [to suit japanese cars] $500 ono.

NismoR34
 Share

Recommended Posts

NismoR34 Grand Master

NismoR34

Posted
Posted

I am selling my Unichip [piggy-back ECU].

Prefer Melbourne buyer only at this stage.

It cost me $800+ brand new about 12 months ago.

APS advised me that it suits all Japanese make cars [u know, nizzan, adamz, atoyot, mitsushi, zoobaruga etc].

It doesnt come with the "optional" boost controller [for turbo cars] but this can be bought and added on from Unichip agents [i dont know the cost for this though so dont ask me, ask them].

Here is a link to the APS website with a list of agents that can fit / tune it for you: Unichip Agents The site also has some dyno charts etc for some Jap cars, GTR one here GTR-Unichip.

Here are some pics:

UnichipA1.jpg

UnichipA2.jpg

By the way - the CD is NOT for sale :) [its for size reference].

Post here or PM me if interested.

Thanks :)

NismoR34 Grand Master

NismoR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry guys this has been sold.

Thanks for your interest.

U gotta be quick! [must have advertised too cheap me thinks] :confused: oh well... now I got some money for other mods :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      How old is the battery, it's more likely your battery is on its way out.
    • PranK
      Cleaning my wheels 😍

      By PranK · Posted

      I reckon you'd get 90% off. My washer doesn't get between spokes very well. Haha! I love my Gerni!  Argh! Steam cleaning has its place for sure.
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Hey all, I did a voltage test with the car (video attached) not running for 3 days. And here is some interesting stuff: - Battery voltage is 12v (I had the key in the ON position) - Drops to 9.76v while cranking then quickly goes up to 14.5v - You will notice there was a sorta slow start but not as slow as it usually is. - Idle surprisingly was better at just over 1,000rpm instead of 1,100 rpm. - I turned on the A/C, radio and headlights in the video and the voltage remains the same - I haven't cleaned the grounding wires on the chassis yet, that's next. - Battery drops to 12.6v when I turn off the car and wait a bit Seems like I might have a parasitic draw? I do have an immobiliser system which does drain the battery more of course but was wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at fixing? Does the ground wires on the chassis have anything to do with the low 12v?        SAU.avi
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My lord that is some low oil pressure as minimum in the manual! I guess the big part will be seeing how it changes as the engine gets more spirited use.
×
×
  • Create New...