Dyno Results: 196rwkw For Basically Stock Rb25det

[Cubes]

So if those cars with high inlet temps were to pull up next to another car with low inlet temps but same power on the dyno down at the local drag stip which will accelerate and run down the 1/4 quicker? My bet is the one with the low IT temps. But the power figures are the same. wtf.

Or think of it this way... Same car same car identical power curves at the same km/h, ones a turbo 6 ones a v8. The turbo 6 has had some pretty funky correction on its power curve due to its higher inlet temps. Which one will run down the 1/4 quicker? The N/A with its lower IT temps.

[paulr33]

yeah maybe thats why some operators keep IT and AT the same

to rule out this incorrect "correction". anyone got a dd manual handy?

[dezz]

yep, common sense would say the 3rd one has the wrong IT

I'm thinking it was something else done wrong that gave such a massive power figure on mine (for a stock 33), so hopefully results similar to the norm can be acheived with the more accurate IT temp, so long as everything else is done correctly

[dezz]

tiz all too confusing to me

I'll just be happy to see a result that is 'normal' when compared to everyone elses with similar mods...ie paul, justin, and paradizzle all have similar mods (except para with the safc instead of the pfc) and are all around the 190-210rwkw mark

[paulr33]

ramp rate (RR) being different will also alter the output figure.

higher ramp rate means the dyno pulls the car harder on the rollers, this can affect how the engine comes on boost, as more load means more boost. also the shootout mode can correct the figures accordingly

SHOOT4

SHOOT4F

SHOOT6

SHOOT6F

SHOOT8

SHOOTF

and so on, the F being forced induction turbo or supercharged.

so if your car was done in say SHOOT6 then you will get different results if you did your car in SHOOT6F and so on

[Cubes]

At the last boostworx dyno day it was shown that the lesser shootout modes read slightly lower than the higher I.e Shoot4 vs Shoot81.

Looking through all the dyno sheets they are all within 5degree's of the AMB temp. I watched shaun place the IT sensor either in the cai snorkle or basically on the pod. HOWEVER.. Dyno runs were done with the bonnet up. So not really reflecting what would really occur on the street.

[Busky2k]

The way I see it is that if the IT is more than 10C higher than the AT, there is going be some good amount of correction involved. Infact that 'bogus' sheet shown before with similar AT/IT, thats the figures that would involve the least amount of SAE correction and thus a more 'real' result IMO. Anyone can get the temp sensor, throw it near the turbo manifold and get some bullshit results.

[Taso84]

Before this thread gets hijacked ive got an update for those interested.

Took my car back to RE customs today to check it out again. We discovered the following. The timing on the car had been set to full advanced. The confusing part however was that the car was still running ok.

The problem is most likely to be either the timing belt was put on incorrectly and is out by a knob by my previous mechanic or the knock sensor is faulty or the wrong model.

Anyway, we reset the timing and moved it back a bit and we did another run on the dyno. For those of u non-believes the car still made 190rwkW and the AFR this time were areound 12.75. We did altogether 6 runs and the car did not ping or knock on any of the runs (altho i have been using octane booster lately)

Gonna take it back to Ray sometime next week to sort out the timing issue and if the timing belt has been installed incorrectly i am gonna lose it at my previous mechanic. At the end of the day however, i am basically driving around a 190rwkW basically stock skyline.... I guess it proves that the RB motor is one of the best responding motors to modification.

[Cubes]

Your not running an adj. cam gear? This will throw the positioning of the cas sensor out.

Maybe the incorrectly set cam timing has helped power a tad.

Wouldn't it suck if you dropped it back to find its lost power everywhere and back to the norm.

[dezz]

I guess it proves that the RB motor is one of the best responding motors to modification.

How did it respond to modification if its stock?

Still dont see how 190rwkw is possible...its not really.

Did you check the ECU

[Taso84]

Your not running an adj. cam gear? This will throw the positioning of the cas sensor out.

Maybe the incorrectly set cam timing has helped power a tad.

Wouldn't it suck if you dropped it back to find its lost power everywhere and back to the norm.

Nah its got stock cam gears... and yes it would suck ut i'd rather be safe than sorry

[Taso84]

How did it respond to modification if its stock?

Still dont see how 190rwkw is possible...its not really.

Did you check the ECU

Its not completely stock, just lightly modded. Yea i checked the ECU it doesnt look like its remapped, i havent checked the inside of it yet. I reckon the timing is causing it to have this much power tho.

[Cubes]

How did it respond to modification if its stock?

Still dont see how 190rwkw is possible...its not really.

Did you check the ECU

I dont see it possible either. See how it goes once all its little issues are sorted out (cam timing and afr).

If it still pulls high figures on stock boost then..................... get a run on a different dyno and if its still a high figure.............. well there's no explaination.

[dezz]

Its not completely stock, just lightly modded. Yea i checked the ECU it doesnt look like its remapped, i havent checked the inside of it yet. I reckon the timing is causing it to have this much power tho.

But you said you reset the timing and it still made 190...so it can't be the advanced timing...

You wouldn't be able to tell from the outside of the ECU if its been changed at all...

Maybe get a dyno run on another dyno just to see what that comes up with...or take it to the drags and see what mph you get...someone on here could work out rough power based on mph

[justin911]

i was on the same dyno on sat and my result was pretty much the same i normaly get on 2 other dynos.. so id say the dyno was fine.

[dezz]

hehe, i wasn't questioning the dyno or the operator...shit, im going there tomorrow so that wouldn't be a wise choice if i dont have faith in the workshop...

Just saying that in this case, its not a normal situation, so another dyno is just another option to get some ideas...chances are it will get a similar figure on the other dyno, then he can start crossing other shit off the list

[Taso84]

Yea, atm i dont really care about the power figure, dont get me wrong, I'm like really happy, (less than $1000 spent and ive got 190rwkW) but im more worried bout the AFR. I reckon once that is fixed it'll go back down to 180... which is still pretty good for my mods, and not that unusual.

[Taso84]

Dezz post up ur results when u get ur run 2moro. Good luck for getting 200rwkW, i will be very interested to see - my car has basically the same mods as u minus powerFC which I will hopefully be getting before Xmas.

[R31Nismoid]

IT & AT should be relatively the same for a turbo car

the DD "correction" is way off. The massive possible changed between cooler setups, boost levels/turbo efficiency etc can never be allowed for by some "software"

Remember the I/C will cool the charge, if its 55, its gonna be lower by the time it reaches the motor.

Closer to ambient is best

cheers

[The Mafia]

I'm still going to call botched figures.

Skylines simply don't make alomst 200rwkw standard.

As I said before, when my car was stock, it was in perfect condition, and by that I mean perfect. Motor was 169psi across all cylinders and 2% leakdown which is on par to brand new.

Made 140rwkw with 10psi and a full exhaust and FMIC.

210rwkw with powerfc added and 13psi boost, and toluene.

Dyno Dynamics Dyno.