Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my car made 182rwkw stock.

the dyno operator had no idea what he was doing, but tried to tell me that 'you never know whats under the heatshield'...

'yeah, i do...its stock'

didnt even have an exhaust

IMG_1432-2.jpg

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

lol if you're refferring to me, im the first to admit my car DOES NOT have 182rwkw stock. has a full 3" exhaust and 9psi atm, and it still wouldnt make that much power.

Notice it was run in 3rd gear also...

the operator clearly f**ked it up, and wasted my money.

Anyway, that was ages ago. I was pissed off because I was dynoing it to see what it made bone stock, so that when i added mods i could see the increase for each...but that went out the window.

Car will be going to ray at RE on tuesday (if my PFC arrives tomorrow) for a tune.

3" exhaust

fmic

040

pfc

MBC

will be dynoed before and after ;)

lol don't take it as a dig it was just an observation of what may have bumped the figure up slightly. Which I'm sure you noticed also. :O

Regarding 3rd to 4th gear.. Mine actually made 4rwkw in 4th.

Quite interested to see how the before after run goes, would be interesting if the power level stock is still up around 180rwkw. lol ;)

lol don't take it as a dig it was just an observation of what may have bumped the figure up slightly. Which I'm sure you noticed also. ;)

Regarding 3rd to 4th gear.. Mine actually made 4rwkw in 4th.

Quite interested to see how the before after run goes, would be interesting if the power level stock is still up around 180rwkw. lol :O

I didnt take it as a dig :(

I threw that dyno sheet out a long time ago. No stock R33 GTS-T makes 182rwkw ;)

and if my car had 182rwkw back then, in theory it'd have 190+ now that i have an exhaust...and if my car has 190rwkw, then i'll sell it and buy something fast....lol

on tuesday i'm hoping for around 160rwkw as it is (the 040 will be installed before any dynoing :bunny:) and hoping for around 200rwkw after the tune and boost upped to probably 12psi..

but will be happy with more midrange rather than just a big max power, and thats exactly what Ray has told me he'll focus on :laugh:

lol you were running a stock exh. with that run. lmao.. I missed that little part in your previous post. :O

yep. 100% stock!

not stock + anything....just stock

was so funny when he was like

'you never know whats under the heatshield in these things'

'the dyno doesn't lie'

'yeah i do. its stock...'

'no, but if you dont know how to use it....'

;)

Ehh dezz, if ur getting a powerfc would it be ok if i borrowed ur stock ECU to test my car. If its ok, jus leave it with Ray and say it is for Tas,

Would be much appreciated but its ok if u dont want to.

Good luck on Tuesday regardless dude, I reckon with ur mods u'll get 175 - 180rwkw. Next mod for u should def be dump/front pipe, preferably with a split.

Ehh dezz, if ur getting a powerfc would it be ok if i borrowed ur stock ECU to test my car. If its ok, jus leave it with Ray and say it is for Tas,

Would be much appreciated but its ok if u dont want to.

Good luck on Tuesday regardless dude, I reckon with ur mods u'll get 175 - 180rwkw. Next mod for u should def be dump/front pipe, preferably with a split.

I would lend it to you if I didn't live so far from RE. Its gonna be close to an hour drive for me, so I won't be back there anytime soon...

And i'm going for a lot more than 180rwkw....more around the 200rwkw mark.

As I already mentioned, my car has a full 3" turbo back, including a split front/dump...

i dont see a major problem with IT being 55.

to me its more realistic if anything.

if you were to place a temp probe under the bonnett, then this would be the realistic values you would see. so IT really comes down to how the car is setup, ie: unshielded pod, it will certainly suck in mega hot air, so 55 is acceptable. if its the stock airbox and snorkel then i guess placing the sensor at the opening of the snorkel would give the best result, i dont think 55 is correct for the opening of the snorkle.

did u see where he placed the airtemp sensor dezz?

But infating power figures because of a poorly setup induction system is wrong and doesnt reflect real world performance. The dyno will read higher but real world performance will be down. Is that really the way to go about correcting power figures?

Maybe airtemp entering the grill correction will reflect a real world power figure.

the temp sensor was put inside the intake pipe, at the second last rubber joiner before the plenum.

He was telling me how he puts it there because it gives the ACTUAL intake temp, as its taken just before the air gets into the plenum, and not just how cold the air is when its blown into the snorkel...

That was before he actually dynoed it...so it was sounding like he knew what he was doing...I guess I found out otherwise soon after :(

yeah that makes sense (to me at least) putting the air temp sensor after intercooler to measure air going into the plenum. the gtr ecu (and PFC) do this and base correction around that value.

to me it make sense to correct up the power readings for higher intake temps, as this is the typical results you would see on the street.

the problem is much more obvious when you see an unshieled pop setup make 200rwkw as the bonnet is open, the airtemp sensor is right next to the AT sensor on the crossover bar next to the dyno computer and both IT and AT are the same, or 1 deg apart. in normal conditions on the street, it wont make that power, as its sucking in hot air.

hang on, higher IT, adds or takes away power?

On the street higher IT = less power.

On the dyno higher IT = more power.

I have the IT sensor placed inside my airbox and airtemps are 0-1degree's what the AMB temp is. BUT I do run a CAI.

How the turbo heats the air and how well the FMIC cools the air back down is then setup dependant and will reflect in real world performance. IF I were to run no intercooler I could in theory still be making the same power on the dyno but real world acceleration would suck.

If the dyno operator is reading the post turbo 'real' inlet temps and having the dyno correct a power figure on this then that is simply way off. The motors 'real' Power will always be down as the engine will always be swallowing air of such a temp.

What will we have next.. Boost correction, compression ratio correction, engine displacement correction? :(

AMB air temp correction all the way.

i think a large number of dyno sheets have incorrect IT and AT

out of all the ones i have looked at, i dont remember seeing many that have it correctly. one would always expect IT to be higher than AT, just not sure how much. i dont think any of my sheets have IT and AT correct

I suppose if they're all going to be 'wrong' then as long as they are all wrong in the same way with similar differences....

Mine may have had the more accurate intake temp, but something else was clearly f**ked up. Or maybe the higher intake temp on my dyno, while more accurate, is what caused the ridiculous figure?

So maybe its not the right way to do it...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...