Dyno Results: 196rwkw For Basically Stock Rb25det

[dezz]

my car made 182rwkw stock.

the dyno operator had no idea what he was doing, but tried to tell me that 'you never know whats under the heatshield'...

'yeah, i do...its stock'

didnt even have an exhaust

[Cubes]

Yep but look at the IT temp.

But more importantly.. How does it compare up against some of the R33's floating around running more boost with similiar power?

[dezz]

lol if you're refferring to me, im the first to admit my car DOES NOT have 182rwkw stock. has a full 3" exhaust and 9psi atm, and it still wouldnt make that much power.

Notice it was run in 3rd gear also...

the operator clearly f**ked it up, and wasted my money.

Anyway, that was ages ago. I was pissed off because I was dynoing it to see what it made bone stock, so that when i added mods i could see the increase for each...but that went out the window.

Car will be going to ray at RE on tuesday (if my PFC arrives tomorrow) for a tune.

3" exhaust

fmic

040

pfc

MBC

will be dynoed before and after

[Cubes]

lol don't take it as a dig it was just an observation of what may have bumped the figure up slightly. Which I'm sure you noticed also.

Regarding 3rd to 4th gear.. Mine actually made 4rwkw in 4th.

Quite interested to see how the before after run goes, would be interesting if the power level stock is still up around 180rwkw. lol

[dezz]

lol don't take it as a dig it was just an observation of what may have bumped the figure up slightly. Which I'm sure you noticed also.

Regarding 3rd to 4th gear.. Mine actually made 4rwkw in 4th.

Quite interested to see how the before after run goes, would be interesting if the power level stock is still up around 180rwkw. lol

I didnt take it as a dig

I threw that dyno sheet out a long time ago. No stock R33 GTS-T makes 182rwkw

and if my car had 182rwkw back then, in theory it'd have 190+ now that i have an exhaust...and if my car has 190rwkw, then i'll sell it and buy something fast....lol

on tuesday i'm hoping for around 160rwkw as it is (the 040 will be installed before any dynoing ) and hoping for around 200rwkw after the tune and boost upped to probably 12psi..

but will be happy with more midrange rather than just a big max power, and thats exactly what Ray has told me he'll focus on

[Cubes]

lol you were running a stock exh. with that run. lmao.. I missed that little part in your previous post.

[dezz]

lol you were running a stock exh. with that run. lmao.. I missed that little part in your previous post.

yep. 100% stock!

not stock + anything....just stock

was so funny when he was like

'you never know whats under the heatshield in these things'

'the dyno doesn't lie'

'yeah i do. its stock...'

'no, but if you dont know how to use it....'

[Taso84]

Ehh dezz, if ur getting a powerfc would it be ok if i borrowed ur stock ECU to test my car. If its ok, jus leave it with Ray and say it is for Tas,

Would be much appreciated but its ok if u dont want to.

Good luck on Tuesday regardless dude, I reckon with ur mods u'll get 175 - 180rwkw. Next mod for u should def be dump/front pipe, preferably with a split.

[Busky2k]

At least with shootout mode we can see the IT temp of 55 would involve some serious correction. When its not shootout, then you begin to wonder about those magical sheets...

[dezz]

Ehh dezz, if ur getting a powerfc would it be ok if i borrowed ur stock ECU to test my car. If its ok, jus leave it with Ray and say it is for Tas,

Would be much appreciated but its ok if u dont want to.

Good luck on Tuesday regardless dude, I reckon with ur mods u'll get 175 - 180rwkw. Next mod for u should def be dump/front pipe, preferably with a split.

I would lend it to you if I didn't live so far from RE. Its gonna be close to an hour drive for me, so I won't be back there anytime soon...

And i'm going for a lot more than 180rwkw....more around the 200rwkw mark.

As I already mentioned, my car has a full 3" turbo back, including a split front/dump...

[paulr33]

i dont see a major problem with IT being 55.

to me its more realistic if anything.

if you were to place a temp probe under the bonnett, then this would be the realistic values you would see. so IT really comes down to how the car is setup, ie: unshielded pod, it will certainly suck in mega hot air, so 55 is acceptable. if its the stock airbox and snorkel then i guess placing the sensor at the opening of the snorkel would give the best result, i dont think 55 is correct for the opening of the snorkle.

did u see where he placed the airtemp sensor dezz?

[Cubes]

But infating power figures because of a poorly setup induction system is wrong and doesnt reflect real world performance. The dyno will read higher but real world performance will be down. Is that really the way to go about correcting power figures?

Maybe airtemp entering the grill correction will reflect a real world power figure.

[dezz]

the temp sensor was put inside the intake pipe, at the second last rubber joiner before the plenum.

He was telling me how he puts it there because it gives the ACTUAL intake temp, as its taken just before the air gets into the plenum, and not just how cold the air is when its blown into the snorkel...

That was before he actually dynoed it...so it was sounding like he knew what he was doing...I guess I found out otherwise soon after

[paulr33]

yeah that makes sense (to me at least) putting the air temp sensor after intercooler to measure air going into the plenum. the gtr ecu (and PFC) do this and base correction around that value.

to me it make sense to correct up the power readings for higher intake temps, as this is the typical results you would see on the street.

the problem is much more obvious when you see an unshieled pop setup make 200rwkw as the bonnet is open, the airtemp sensor is right next to the AT sensor on the crossover bar next to the dyno computer and both IT and AT are the same, or 1 deg apart. in normal conditions on the street, it wont make that power, as its sucking in hot air.

hang on, higher IT, adds or takes away power?

[dezz]

No idea. i've never gotten my head around all that, or the correction shit

One thing is for sure, he f**ked up my dyno run, and ripped me off

[Cubes]

On the street higher IT = less power.

On the dyno higher IT = more power.

I have the IT sensor placed inside my airbox and airtemps are 0-1degree's what the AMB temp is. BUT I do run a CAI.

How the turbo heats the air and how well the FMIC cools the air back down is then setup dependant and will reflect in real world performance. IF I were to run no intercooler I could in theory still be making the same power on the dyno but real world acceleration would suck.

If the dyno operator is reading the post turbo 'real' inlet temps and having the dyno correct a power figure on this then that is simply way off. The motors 'real' Power will always be down as the engine will always be swallowing air of such a temp.

What will we have next.. Boost correction, compression ratio correction, engine displacement correction?

AMB air temp correction all the way.

[dezz]

Ok cool

well what do most other peoples IT's look like?

Is mine a more accurate one? and is it higher than what most others see?

[paulr33]

i think a large number of dyno sheets have incorrect IT and AT

out of all the ones i have looked at, i dont remember seeing many that have it correctly. one would always expect IT to be higher than AT, just not sure how much. i dont think any of my sheets have IT and AT correct

[dezz]

I suppose if they're all going to be 'wrong' then as long as they are all wrong in the same way with similar differences....

Mine may have had the more accurate intake temp, but something else was clearly f**ked up. Or maybe the higher intake temp on my dyno, while more accurate, is what caused the ridiculous figure?

So maybe its not the right way to do it...

[paulr33]

i'd say correct

http://users.bigpond.net.au/btak/33some/dyno304.gif

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/WHITER33/300.jpg

possibly bogus

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=20772