Jump to content
SAU Community

which head is best?


Recommended Posts

Guest drift_me_silly

no msn on this machine, swapping labs in an hour...i'll try msg u then...where do you go to drift around here, who do you use for mech. work, how do you afford the sweet machines that are skylines? -i'm in the making of a career...namely mine...as i said.

in time.

If the rules are still the same, then the head off a larger capacity engine will cause a REDUCTION in C/R when fitted to an engine of smaller capacity (presumably the combustion chambers are bigger on the bigger engine). Now, this may allow you to run more boost, but the engine will be far less tractable 'off-boost'.

It was often the practice in the days of L-series engines to do things like fitting a L-16 head on a L-18 block to get a bit more compression.

If you are after serious grunt, then trying to fit the RB20 head on the RB25 seems more the way to go. Or you could simply port / polish a RB20 head for your RB20 block so that it breaths better.

Hi guys, RB25 and RB26 are 86 mm bore and RB20 is 78 mm bore. So if you try and put an RB25/26 head on an RB20 block you will have a mismatch in diameter of 8mm. The water jackets are in different places and, if I remember rightly, the oil galleries are different as well. That's why there are none around.

Want more capacity out of your RB20? Try an RB26 crank and rods and 4AGZE pistons, makes 2,336 cc's. There's a lot of info and discusion about this in the past on the forum, do a quick search. Also www.meggala.com has a lot of info as well.

Hope that helps.

Hi S13 Silvia, suggestions follow your questions.............

***What do you reckon would be a good price for rb26 crank and rods?

Shop around the forum they come up from time to time, prices vary from $200 to $500

**Is it possible to use the rb20 pistons with the rb26 rods?

Never tried it, I know the gudgeon pin is larger diameter in the little end of the RB26 conrod. You could either machine the piston for a larger gudgeon pin or bush the RB26 little end for the smaller RB20 gudgeon pin. Either would probably work OK, I would lean towards the former as a larger gudgeon would be better as long as the necessary machining doesn't weaken the piston too much.

**What's the availability like on getting the rb26 crank/rods?

They come up from time to time on the forum. Be watchfull, act swiftly, as they seem to sell fairly quickly, and have your money ready.

Hope that helps.

Hi drift_me_silly, check out the posts by JOnJOn he has a 2.4 litre RB20.

Watch the costs though, they add up and can easily exceed the cost of doing up an RB25DET.

Good luck, let me know how it goes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The jack pad placement always had me scratching my head. I only have a small section to work with on both the E90 and E70 (and insert new project car here ) and I could see lining it up to be a bit of a bugger. For me, the E90 is just too low and needs small ramps and then the front centre jack point is a bit tricky to line up (it's half way down the subframe and about the size of a tennis ball, its really hard to see unless your head is on the ground), so I definitely like the idea of not having to do a multi-stage jack and just sliding these bad boys in under the sides. There's only one small point at each corner, so I can't jack AND add a stand on the same corner. Or, maybe I can and I'm too nervous to try. 😟
    • Is this not the biggest deal of all? I was hoping the whole "will slide under cars with skirts etc and lift evenly quickly with minimal fuss" was the entire point of such a device? 
    • Here's Neil's car up on mine recently
    • Yeah I've got one of these, Quick Jack not Quick Lift, but your link looks like a good copy For me, it's better than no hoist, but it is definitely not as good as a hoist  It lifts the car about 60cm which is a nice working height compared to regular stands and it is only under the sills so it doesn't get in the way like regular chassis stands do.  No need to use regular stands, it has a safety lock on it. On the down side it is really heavy/unwieldy to drag into place, and you have to place it after the car is there (no option to drive the car to where the frames are. You need to try and line it up with the proper sill points which is hard as it swings up in an arc and there is surprisingly little adjustment in the distance between the rubber pads for different car lengths. Not a big deal, but in practice a jack + stands is probably quicker. Also there are hydraulic lines to each side and you need either a 240v or 12v source to power it depending on which option you have, I use 12v as I always seem to have a battery around.
    • Finally addressing my catch can and oil setup Plan is to do as much as practical without having to remove the motor or pull it apart. (no back of head to sump drain/breather or oil restrictors) First step is a set of full length baffle plates from Hypertune and a Tomei cam cap stud kit. I could probably have laser cut and bent up my own ones but this took any guess work out
×
×
  • Create New...