Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas

Kribside

By Kribside,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

ceedub Community Regular

ceedub

Posted
Posted
thanks for ur thoughts guys.... looks like i have a busy weekend ahead testing everything.... ill let u know how it all goes!!

cheers

I had a similar problem - turned out to be that the 'big' red connector that clips to the positive terminal of the battery had corroded terminlas which caused the voltage to cut in and out.

cleaned out the terminals - problem fixed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136582-hicas/page/2/#findComment-2563419
Share on other sites
Kribside Explorer

Kribside

Posted
  • Author
Posted

my positive battery terminal was like almost falling off so i replace that.... first 2 times i used the turbo timer there wasnt the usual problem and i was stoked... but now its just back to what it was like :( ive still gota try a few other things that u guy have mentioned.... thanks for ur input!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136582-hicas/page/2/#findComment-2569869
Share on other sites
JonesyGTR Community Regular

JonesyGTR

Posted
Posted
my positive battery terminal was like almost falling off so i replace that.... first 2 times i used the turbo timer there wasnt the usual problem and i was stoked... but now its just back to what it was like :) ive still gota try a few other things that u guy have mentioned.... thanks for ur input!

Hey guys, I have the same problem as Kribside. I have checked the voltage that is being output, both over 13.5 (TT on and off). Any other possibilities? I ahve checked the battery and connections, all nice and tight and clean.

Cheers,

Dan :dry:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136582-hicas/page/2/#findComment-2586673
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • sonicii
      Mechanic in Victoria

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...