Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I searched but couldnt find anything.

At what power output does the standard fuel delivery system of the R33 GTSt S1 max out?

I'm spending a few grand on power in a couple months and it should put me at the 200-210rwkw mark, and the last thing I want is to have something cause the car to lean out at high power and damage something.

So I was thinking of also upgrading the fuel pump and FPR, maybe the injectors. Would it be worth it?

ECU will be piggybacked by an SAFC II (I understand the drawbacks and benefits of these so this is not the topic of discussion) - so what brands of FPR + injector types are too extreme for even the SAFC to adjust to?

Would the standard fuel system be sufficient?

Any help would be nice!

Edited by Mike_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136627-standard-r33-fuel-delivery/
Share on other sites

for 200-210 no need

stock injectors, rails, fpr are fine

just get a larger flowing pump

gtr32/33/34 should be fine

nismo should be fine

stay away from walbro

What about pushing on further than that?

Ive got an adjustable FPR, SAFC2, bosch 040, going on my r33, and im thinking of getting a highflow turbo, what sort of power can be achieved by raising the rail pressure?

What about pushing on further than that?

Ive got an adjustable FPR, SAFC2, bosch 040, going on my r33, and im thinking of getting a highflow turbo, what sort of power can be achieved by raising the rail pressure?

Hi bj. If your concerned about the cost of new injectors as i was all you need to do is to

purchase some red top injectors from an S15. I had to buy two set's of four, but the cost

was less than half over new nismo injectors. Try some Silvia web sites. I found mine on

Silvia club of NSW. Ive been told they are good for around 250 ish and thats without a

fuel pressure reg. Hope this helps. :yes:

for 200-210 no need

stock injectors, rails, fpr are fine

just get a larger flowing pump

gtr32/33/34 should be fine

nismo should be fine

stay away from walbro

Thanks for that

I guess my biggest concern is that my fuel pump or FPR might fail on me and I'll start running lean without noticing.

I guess the SAFC would give me this info so I'll just have to keep my eye on it :yes:

Cheers!

Hi bj. If your concerned about the cost of new injectors as i was all you need to do is to

purchase some red top injectors from an S15. I had to buy two set's of four, but the cost

was less than half over new nismo injectors. Try some Silvia web sites. I found mine on

Silvia club of NSW. Ive been told they are good for around 250 ish and thats without a

fuel pressure reg. Hope this helps. :yes:

Yeah S15 injectors would be my choice if I go down that path. If you do decide to get them make sure you get the RED ones NOT the purple ones. Some S15's come with one, some with the other, from memory.

What about pushing on further than that?

Ive got an adjustable FPR, SAFC2, bosch 040, going on my r33, and im thinking of getting a highflow turbo, what sort of power can be achieved by raising the rail pressure?

If you go for a highflow turbo you should get a Power FC, Z32 AFM, and injectors. Your tune will be greatly compromised if you don’t.

Standard pump will techinically be good up to 230KW but rarely doesnt (guess coz their age) You can try putting a relay on the fuel pump so it recieves a full 13.98-14 V rather than the 11.8 ir recieves with the stock setup. Make sure you dyno it to make sure it works

210 will be hard to get without rasing boost above/around 12 which inturn raises AFM to above 5V causing R&R

Nismo FPR would be best as boltfit straight in. Other systems usually require adaptors.

I'm runninng Z32 pump, Nismo FPR with stock injectors and put out 200. My AFM peaks at 4.9V so I'm at my limit with 11Psi boost (R33 S1)

whats wrong with walbro?

i bought a bosch fuel pump only to discover they dont sit right in fuel tanks and swapped it for a walbro

had no dramas

They do sit right in fuel tanks. I've fit many of these to many different models and you can run the tanks down til after the light comes on before it effects driveability. Download a Walbro flow chart and compare it to the Bosch flow rate. You'll see where your money has gone.

The Walbro pump pumps 250l/hour at 3 bar (Yay, that covers idle) wait til you need 65psi of rail pressure....that soon drops off to 150l/hour. The Bosch pump will pump 235l/hour right up to 5 bar (73.5psi) .

Thanks for that

I guess my biggest concern is that my fuel pump or FPR might fail on me and I'll start running lean without noticing.

I guess the SAFC would give me this info so I'll just have to keep my eye on it :)

Cheers!

Which is why with any performance car that is tuned for near max power you should have a power run done every so often to check up on afr's. I know of some that get one done every service. :nuke:

Which is why with any performance car that is tuned for near max power you should have a power run done every so often to check up on afr's. I know of some that get one done every service. :D

Yeah I'd say that's a good idea!

Even so I think I'll end up going the route of a nismo FPR and a GTR pump, but It's going to depend on money in the end.

Cheers for the help guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...