Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mechanic told me that 2 common things that cause bad fuel economy on skylines are the 02sensor, and the ecu temp sensor.

changed my 02 sensor a while ago, no improvement.

so is the temp sensor worth trying?

i think they're only about $50.

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

It sure can, if it is telling the ecu the engine is cold, it will always be using enrichment that isn't needed.

But all these sensors are easily tested for correct operation.

You don't just go changing things unless you like wasting money.

Two ways you can check it.

Firstly by disconnecting the plug and using a multimeter measure the resistance across the two terminals at the different water temps.

Spec is

20deg 2.5k ohm

80deg 0.3k ohm

Second way is to measure the voltage between ecu pin 28 and earth at the different water temps.

Spec is

20deg 3V

80deg 1V

As long as the test results are somewhere close to the spec it isn't faulty.

Hope that helps.

ive never seen a water temp sensor cause bad economy

if u want to test it, unplug it and drive around for a week

the car will be fairly upset. mind wouldnt even start with a shagged water temp sensor. so id be suprised if yours would work, but get crap economy.

How maney k's are you doing with 10l or a full tank and what 98 fuel are you useing, try shell optimax I put bp in car and the economy was bad

so try shell :nuke:

Edited by RB SANDY

I know mines a prehistoric R32 but mine would start and run ok with the water temp sensor disconnected.

I ran in to fuel economy problems a while back. All of a sudden dropped from mid to high 400's to 350km's per tank almost overnight.

Replaced o2 sensor with new item, had already replaced water temp sensors and they were reading fine on the pfc h/c. I replaced injectors and bang.. fuel economy was back. :)

Driving style also has a little to do with economy. With mine at least it makes a considerable difference. If I change up a shade over 2000rpm I get pretty damn close to 500km's per tank. If I stretch out the gears a little to 3000rpm with light throttle fuel economy hangs around the low 400's.

The odd boot here or there doesn't appear to make a noticable difference but if always up on boost and booting it it does and I only just scrap in at 400km's per tank (~50-52litres).

The RB20DET however, didn't seem to matter how I drove it, always returned 450-470km's per tank.

I feel like a broken record. I've said that so so many times. :nuke:

Two ways you can check it.

Firstly by disconnecting the plug and using a multimeter measure the resistance across the two terminals at the different water temps.

Spec is

20deg 2.5k ohm

80deg 0.3k ohm

Second way is to measure the voltage between ecu pin 28 and earth at the different water temps.

Spec is

20deg 3V

80deg 1V

As long as the test results are somewhere close to the spec it isn't faulty.

Hope that helps.

that helps alot. thanks man. will check that out.

How maney k's are you doing with 10l or a full tank and what 98 fuel are you useing, try shell optimax I put bp in car and the economy was bad

so try shell :D

10.9L/100kms using Boost98. Works good, hella cheap too. Stockish R32 gtst.

How maney k's are you doing with 10l or a full tank and what 98 fuel are you useing, try shell optimax I put bp in car and the economy was bad

so try shell :D

i'm getting about 15L/100kms. BP Ultimate 98.

Ive tried mobil, caltex, but not shell. keep hearing so many bad things about optimax.

At the end of the day, highway vs city/short trips, makes a huge difference.

that's why u get some R33 owners claiming 500kms to a tank, and others getting 250kms.

Will be hunting down a cheap used safc2 (anyone selling???) to fit and tune soon, but i want to make sure the temp sensor is doing its job first.

The Temp sensor is one of the vital reading's the ecu requires for fuel consuption!

Do the check as described above with a multimeter!

If it's out of spec replace it.

Cheers

Josh

do i keep the car running when measuring the resistance across the temp sensor terminals?

or motor off, ignition on?

or other ??

also, just to verify, this is the sensor i'm checking, right ?

post-29392-1159587824.jpg

I do all local driving. ZERO highway.

Driven correctly the 3ltr returns the same fuel consumption as the rb20det.

R33's for what ever reason tend to have considerably worse fuel economy compared to the little old r32's. Maybe its the greater weight, maybe its the vct or something who knows.

do i keep the car running when measuring the resistance across the temp sensor terminals?

or motor off, ignition on?

or other ??

also, just to verify, this is the sensor i'm checking, right ?

disconnect the plug and measure the resistance on the engine when its cold (first thing in morning), water temp will be around 20degC then.

then again after driving the car and its up to normal operating temp disconnect it and measure the resistance. operating temp is around 80-90degC.

all test with engine off.

If you prefer to measure voltage you will need igntion on and the connector plugged on.

I tested the resistance at the temp sensor terminals.

2.85k ohms when cold/sitting overnight.

0.31k ohms when warmed up/after 15min drive.

so it looks good to me.

cheers man. thanks for your help.

if anyone is selling a used safc2, cheap, PM me. :angry:

if you do alot of short drives as opose to afew long drives fuel economy will suffer big time, just recently i moved closer to work so im only a 10min drive away so if all i do is drive to work my car is always running the richer(cold engine) maps as it doesnt get much time to warm up and my fuel economy has dropped from 450 odd km to 350 odd km's

Which is why its especially important to run a genuine thermostat as they get the car up to operating temp and out of the water temp correct table within 1-2km's.

Otto, if you run a pfc you can lean the water temp correct table out to all buggery until the drivability begins to suffer. I was able to take out a considerable amount of correction. I've seen a few maps from different tuners now and find it interesting they almost never touch the water temp correction table.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...