Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How do I know If my Cam Angle Sensor is In right position?

Is there a way of checking it?

Just wondering as my CAS has been moved a few times and I am still not 100% sure that its in the right position , If theres anyone outhere that could help would be much appreciated....

I have searched about this topic and most of the replies are unclear.

Thx In advance :nuke::)

You need a timing light for starters you can buy them from autobarn type shops. Then you need to connect the 2xpower leads to your battery and the third lead goes onto number one HT lead that connects the your spark plug. Number one cylinder is at the front of the engine IE: closest to the front of the car. Make sure you hook this up the right way, there should be an arrow on the connector for the light indicating which way round it should be hooked on. Once its all connected up get a appropriate spanner to loosen the bolts on the CAS just enough so it can e rotated but not so much as it will turn by itself. Next start the engine and point the timing light down onto the crank pulley. There will be a series of marks on the timing cover behind the pulley with numbers on it IE:15BTDC,10BTDC,5BTDC,TDC, etc. There is a corresponding mark on the pulley itself that when you shine the flashing timing light on it, it will point at one of the marks on the timing cover. With the car idling twist the CAS until the mark lines up with 15BTDC. Then tighten up the CAS and recheck it.

Good luck hope i helped

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32

I have done this already , to find that the timing mark was was fluctuating and was unclear how to stop this I'm pretty sure that theres a way of making the mark stay at one point this is my main concern! :D:no:

could just be an idling problem. make sure you're at operating temp when doing this and check all idle related components are working properly. go through and search the DIY section on how to fix these yourself.

  • 1 year later...
ok from what i am aware of, full clock wise is default position... just fixed my rough idling r33 and now she sits at 650rpm just perfect!

i could be wrong but it is my understanding that most skyline's should idle much higher then that. more like up around 800-850

as above

the cas controls that base timing. it should be at 15deg BTDC which is usually about in the middle of its range of movement..

i think u just must have typed the wrong thing. The CAS does not affect base timing. it affects ignition timing.

theres a sticker under your bonnet that tells you what idle should be. i think it's 700 +/- 50 from memory

mine idles at 700.

edit: it's 650 +/- 50

Edited by Munkyb0y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, that's grim. Something bad has been happening there.
    • Put an endoscope down the hole and saw this. Not quite all around the bore but a good 60% at least. Chin to the chest and towards further disappointments I guess.
    • 2 does "sort of" applies, maybe......but looking at what parts would be needed for the swap to get engineered, registered, and insured, and basically that's everything under the car, the modifications the make it legal would be problematic and horrendously expensive, all for a street car that just cruises around and hits a few twisty roads on the weekends Also, from looking at the NSW rules and Regs, with all modifications that is required just to make the car safe and not twist itself to pieces, and then actually get registered for street use, may still be impossible nowadays As for 1, when you add in a fresh engine, fresh transmission, rear cradle and diff, tailshaft, suspension, brakes, cooling, and all the other fabrication required, your probably looking at up to $100k to do it right, all for a 20 year old MX5 that is over engineered and you would never be able to actually use the power it has on the street, much like your beastie, which I love, but you actually track that thing and can use all of its powers in anger, in a safe environment  Hell, the old Bogan Cruise Ship had more power than I could use on the street, and in hindsight, I went a bit silly on that thing, it didn't really need the 500hp it had for what I actually used the car for, it was fun, but basically unusable on the street if you value your licence  As for cams, yeah, I'll probably book it in for them to get installed and tuned soonish, like next month after MX5 Mania are back at work....... and yes, I've already sent a email to bin the turbo quote and quote instead to install cams and a new Fluidampr balancer that will suit the 2.5 better than the OEM 2.0 balancer that is swapped over for the 2.5 install, as the balancer needs to get pulled to time the cams it's a while your in there sort of thing I did think a bit about flex fuel for a laugh, but being na, and no where really around locally anymore to get E85, I've binned that idea, so no sweet sweet corn smells are set for the car I wish E85 was more of a standard fuel, it's better for the environment, better for tuning, plus that sweet sweet smell we all love As for fitting in the family, that's not needed, as everyone in the family already owns a car that can seat 5 humans comfortably enough, the MX5 is "my toy" As for buying a car that is already built, nah, I would rather pick and choose my parts, I enjoy the process, and in the big picture, the additional cost is well worth the enjoyment, and the occasional frustration, I get out of doing it, albeit with other people spinning the spanners, and me, just paying the invoice 🤣
    • Excuse me, but 2) does apply 1) Would also apply if you consider how much is spent in the alternatives. Also there's the option of 3), buy one pre-built that you can put your family in (it's me, it's my car)   That said, I went on a ~500km drive the other day. I didn't use anything more adventurous than 3rd/4th gear at about ~3000RPM and 50% throttle and I was going as fast as anyone has any sense doing on a public road, with enough grip to the point where I didn't want to go any faster. I was obviously under the limit of the current car etc etc. MX5 with 2.5 N/A to achieve the same speed would be more fun for any road scenario. Maybe consider cams. I wouldn't boost it. The use case is just not there and it won't actually make the car more enjoyable unless you really do plan on wringing gears from 1st to 3rd (at least) at 100% WOT on a public road to 150+kmh.
    • Great if: 1. You had all of the money for everything else that is required  2. Lived in a country where you could actually do this and drive it legally on the road Sadly, neither applies to me As for the turbo, I am having second thoughts, mainly for engineering/registration legality reasons and insurance  Not saying I've finished doing stupid things that I probably should do to the MX5, but boost, and V8 engine swaps isn't on the cards Strange, but true 
×
×
  • Create New...