Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey folks just after some advice here, I am struggling to figure this one out!

I recently installed a Blitz DSBC Spec S Single Solenoid boost controller on my car (R33 S2).

The car is standard with a 3" exhaust/ dump pipe & pod filter.

After setting the desired settings (NORMAL 0.5 bar HIGH 0.7 bar) I noticed the boost spikes dramatically (to approx 0.95 bar) during vigorous gear changes. The boost stabilizes a split second after a gear change has been made.

I have managed to reduce the severity of spiking by lowering the boost warning setting but this just leads to jerky power delivery as the boost controller tries to constantly correct boost during gear changes.

Strangely, when the boost controller is switched off this spiking still occurs.

How can this be cured?

This boost controller does NOT offer GAIN or boost response settings?

Any suggestions or help is welcome. Thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136871-spiking-like-crazy/
Share on other sites

I had a spec s boost controller on my skyline (r33 s1). I was told that once you go over .7 bar the boost solenoid needs to be upgraded($110). I think its even written in the operating instructions. I tried to run mine at 1 bar and it just went stupid, spiking to 1.5 bar. So i got rid of it.

I had a spec s boost controller on my skyline (r33 s1). I was told that once you go over .7 bar the boost solenoid needs to be upgraded($110). I think its even written in the operating instructions. I tried to run mine at 1 bar and it just went stupid, spiking to 1.5 bar. So i got rid of it.

I am currently using the non standard Blitz Solenoid that was bundled with the boost controller.

The factory Nissan one has been removed. It's puzzling... When I turn the Blitz controller off it runs 0.5 bar (standard). However if the car is pushed harder i.e. quick gear change it will still spikes!

What are Blitz Boost controllers like as a general rule??? Are the problematic?

I am currently using the non standard Blitz Solenoid that was bundled with the boost controller.

The factory Nissan one has been removed. It's puzzling... When I turn the Blitz controller off it runs 0.5 bar (standard). However if the car is pushed harder i.e. quick gear change it will still spikes!

What are Blitz Boost controllers like as a general rule??? Are the problematic?

Hey guys, any more ideas with this one???

Surely someone else out there has had similar troubles.

Cheers.

just out of curiousity, where is the pressue hose run from? is it run from the bov hose is it? possibly done when fitting a front mount cooler.

i had spiking with my $22 controller after i did my cooler install. i had the hose hooked from the bov hose (like it shows in the instructions). this caused spiking on gear changes. i moved the hose to the 'hot' cooler pipe (took the nipple off the old cooler pipe and stuck it on the hot pipe). this solved my problem.

just out of curiousity, where is the pressue hose run from? is it run from the bov hose is it? possibly done when fitting a front mount cooler.

i had spiking with my $22 controller after i did my cooler install. i had the hose hooked from the bov hose (like it shows in the instructions). this caused spiking on gear changes. i moved the hose to the 'hot' cooler pipe (took the nipple off the old cooler pipe and stuck it on the hot pipe). this solved my problem.

The boost controller pressure hose taps into the fuel pressure regulator or the small vacuum hose coming out of the front of the plenum chamber.

I also have a mechanical boost gauge tapping into this same location. Do you think I should relocate the boost pressure line?

The pressure hose for the boost controller itself is small in diameter. Approximately the same size as the factory vacuum line exiting the back of the plenum... :laugh:

The boost controller pressure hose taps into the fuel pressure regulator or the small vacuum hose coming out of the front of the plenum chamber.

I also have a mechanical boost gauge tapping into this same location. Do you think I should relocate the boost pressure line?

The pressure hose for the boost controller itself is small in diameter. Approximately the same size as the factory vacuum line exiting the back of the plenum...

so the hose is rather long? i would relocate the pressure line to before the cooler. that way the hose will be nice and short. and it also won't suffer spiking due to cold nights.

you will find that companies like HKS have the wastegate line coming off the compressor side of the turbo.

so the hose is rather long? i would relocate the pressure line to before the cooler. that way the hose will be nice and short. and it also won't suffer spiking due to cold nights.

you will find that companies like HKS have the wastegate line coming off the compressor side of the turbo.

Cheers for the advice mate! I might have to redo the hose set up in this case...

umm i got the same boost controller.... and it definetly offers set/gain settings....

you sure u read the manual on howto set it up properly ?

sounds like you havnt entered the 'set' value correctly..

btw, lemi know if you need the manual for it (took me ages to find online)

This boost controller does NOT offer GAIN or boost response settings?

Any suggestions or help is welcome. Thanks guys!

i run mine on 12psi, has no spiking issues....

i think the limit is 16psi for the spec-s, not .7 bar

I had a spec s boost controller on my skyline (r33 s1). I was told that once you go over .7 bar the boost solenoid needs to be upgraded($110). I think its even written in the operating instructions. I tried to run mine at 1 bar and it just went stupid, spiking to 1.5 bar. So i got rid of it.
i run mine on 12psi, has no spiking issues....

i think the limit is 16psi for the spec-s, not .7 bar

The Blitz I have only has a single solenoid (Spec S version).

The manual I have is in Japanese so its not much use to me :laugh:

My high boost setting is set for around 10psi but it spikes well above this (approx 13psi)

When I toggle the controller (left mode button) I don't have a gain function.

If you could post up the manual you are referring to that would be great!

Thanks

change menus till you get to the 'set' screen. then press and hold down "mode" for a few seconds, that will change to the gain value and let you change it.

for my r33 gtst, i have 11 / 48 values. Which gives me a tiny bit over 12psi.

When I toggle the controller (left mode button) I don't have a gain function.

If you could post up the manual you are referring to that would be great!

Thanks

SBC_SPECS.pdf

change menus till you get to the 'set' screen. then press and hold down "mode" for a few seconds, that will change to the gain value and let you change it.

for my r33 gtst, i have 11 / 48 values. Which gives me a tiny bit over 12psi.

Ahh thanks mate, you are a gent :(

change menus till you get to the 'set' screen. then press and hold down "mode" for a few seconds, that will change to the gain value and let you change it.

for my r33 gtst, i have 11 / 48 values. Which gives me a tiny bit over 12psi.

Ahh thanks mate, you are a gent :(

change menus till you get to the 'set' screen. then press and hold down "mode" for a few seconds, that will change to the gain value and let you change it.

for my r33 gtst, i have 11 / 48 values. Which gives me a tiny bit over 12psi.

Hey Justin,

I have now found the GAIN setting thanks heaps!!! What GAIN setting do you suggest? What do you run?

I have a stock turbo, standard cooler & 3 inch exhaust.

i use 11 for my gain.

try something like that... yours is probably on the default setting of like 30 or something >_<

Hey Justin,

I have now found the GAIN setting thanks heaps!!! What GAIN setting do you suggest? What do you run?

I have a stock turbo, standard cooler & 3 inch exhaust.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...