Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

neither.. not unless it was a jap import - there wont be any australian released ones either.

there are (although quite rare) SR20DE S14s around...

power/speed/weight wise.. similar to an SR20 180 or s13 would be a safe guess

They are around... JDM cars though and few and far between... S15's as eug said are very light so i imigane they would be compariable to a NA 33 or 34, they also got the new version SR with VVt.

NA JDM S15s used to be available in Australia before RAWS came out, don't think there are being brought out any more.

I don't see the point to them, may as well get a faster DC2 Integra Type R if you want a good handling NA coupe with high rev performance. I had a Prelude VTiR before and it was very chuckable around corners and had a strong top end.

Edited by R34 Rampage

Spec S was the non turbo and Spec R was the turbo version in Japan. In Aus, they were both turbo but spec R had better options and a sunroof.

I have driven an NA S15 and that was slow as! Its ok i suppose but the Aus Del turbo version was much nicer. JDM was even better.

Havent driven an NA R34 before so i wouldnt know

You can't import regular N/A S15's (and they weren't sold locally)... BUT you can import Autech tuned N/A S15's. Which come with the Autech SR20DE which makes about 175hp. I wouldn't say they're much more faster than an R34. They cost about $23,000 and more landed and complied (plus rego costs etc).. although they're quite rare at that end of the price range. They're lighter than an R34 N/A, but the R34 has a 2.5L engine that puts out about the same power.

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/7508

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/7507

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/7506

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/7505

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/7504

You can also import a S15 Varietta (convertible), but you won't be able to afford one (going by the budget you gave in your other thread).

Locally sold S15 turbo's are around the same price as the Autech N/A's but they're turbos n not good for P platers like you.

Locally sold S15 turbo's are around the same price as the Autech N/A's but they're turbos n not good for P platers like you.

Lucky Autech is considered a manufacturer, or otherwise it'd still run afoul of the NSW P-plater laws that say you can't have a car where the engine performance is "modified".

Lucky Autech is considered a manufacturer, or otherwise it'd still run afoul of the NSW P-plater laws that say you can't have a car where the engine performance is "modified".

technically as far as DOTARS knows "Autech" is a spec of S15, which is why the Autech N/A's are listed as a variant on the regular S15's :huh: sneaky sneaky :P

technically as far as DOTARS knows "Autech" is a spec of S15, which is why the Autech N/A's are listed as a variant on the regular S15's :O sneaky sneaky :laugh:

My understanding when reading....I can't even remember which magazine, probably HPI.....is that Autech's cars have their own VIN plates. They're not Nissan's. If I remember, it was an article about the Tex Modify tuned Autech Stagea 260RS.

Which makes them an OEM of sorts, so anything they do to the car is "factory".

So, they're like HSV / CSV down here. Those cars don't have Holden VIN plates, even though the donor vehicles are Holdens and HSV / CSV are technically different companies.

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/7508

THATS SICK!

Meh, i took the easy way out and got a 32 gts. I'm sure alot of people have said this, but i'll say it again. Get a "Shitbox" learn on it, save money then buy whatever you want. Trust me, Practicing on my na 32 is good, i probably would of crashed if i had a powerfull car.

You must be really keen to own an S15 on a "restricted" license if you'll spend $30K on a non-turbo S15......

I suppose you can always sell it when you get your full license to another P plater who wants an S15 shape. Maybe it'll retain value better than the turbo ones for that reason, but your buying market will be extremely limited and P platers aren't generally reknown for having lots of money.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...