Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats cool Gareth, i see your point...

But if people have tested it (more than once), shown there to be less than 10rwkw in it which is far from something to get excited about

That how does that come about? How does that get explained?

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Some cs student you don't know what your talking about do you. Whats that. No No you don't. I don't get how some of you don't get it. How can a transfer case tranfer more than 50% of the torque to the front wheels when it is the same final drive ratio as the rear and the rear drive line is fixed to the engine when in gear. It can't. Never will.

I never said it was transferring more than 50%.

I meant more as in it will transfer more power to the front wheels than a standard transfer case would at a given amount of slip, ie. if it was trying to transfer X amount of power a modified transfer case would give it a little more.

EDIT: so it would reach the so called "50%" if that is the case, a little faster than a non-modified transfer case due to the change is clutch plates.

Furthermore, since your referring to the torque split gauge as a percentage you clearly don't know what your talking about there, it's not a percentage.

Your point about the clutch plates compressing is noted, as as most of your points, but you don't need to come across so arrogant in your posts.

EDIT: On second thought, I haven't slept for a few days so maybe I'm the one mis-interpreting, I guess I'll find out from your next post.

Your "locked" made me think of how a 2-way diff locks at a certain amount of torque going through it, I now understand what you are referring to as "locked" makes sense now, simply a mis-interpretation there.

Thats cool Gareth, i see your point...

To prevent confusion please make it clear which Gareth your referring to, I can see your referring to Rowdy32 in that post (I think) :P

I never said it was transferring more than 50%.

I meant more as in it will transfer more power to the front wheels than a standard transfer case would at a given amount of slip, ie. if it was trying to transfer X amount of power a modified transfer case would give it a little more.

EDIT: so it would reach the so called "50%" if that is the case, a little faster than a non-modified transfer case due to the change is clutch plates.

Furthermore, since your referring to the torque split gauge as a percentage you clearly don't know what your talking about there, it's not a percentage.

Your point about the clutch plates compressing is noted, as as most of your points, but you don't need to come across so arrogant in your posts.

Exactly right with the transfer case workings.

I wasn't talking about the torque gauge on the dash as it is only what the computer thinks it is transfering to the front by the amount of pressure it is putting on the clutch. If the transfer case is rooted the gauge displays what it thinks its doing but in reality little drive is going to the wheels. On a 4wd dyno screen there is a display that shows the amount of torque going to the front and rear rollers. Thats what I'm talking about. One of the ways of telling if your case is rooted. The gauge in the dash is really only good for wank value and I don't think I have ever even looked at it whilest driving. You can normal tell if its locking up by how the car handles also.

Exactly right with the transfer case workings.

I wasn't talking about the torque gauge on the dash as it is only what the computer thinks it is transfering to the front by the amount of pressure it is putting on the clutch. If the transfer case is rooted the gauge displays what it thinks its doing but in reality little drive is going to the wheels. On a 4wd dyno screen there is a display that shows the amount of torque going to the front and rear rollers.

Ah, interesting, I just had to replace my transfer case as it had some issues (badly slipping and the shaft (?) inside it was making a grinding sound), a 4WD dyno would be an interesting way of confirming the second-hand one I got doesn't have issues...

Thanks for the info.

  • 2 months later...

There is a turbo in the Garrett range between the -5 (GT2860R 62 Trim) and the -10 (GT2871R 52 Trim), that being the GT2871R 48 Trim. Garrett has rated it to 400HP (they rate the -10 to 460HP), i was wondering if anyone has ran one of these on a GTR as i can imagine they would be a lot more responsive than the -10 and would yield a lot more power that the -5. To run on of these though you would have to get Garrett to modify a -5 compressor housing to fit if you want to retain the factory piping but they would be will to do it and I wouldn't imaging it would cost much.

GT2871R 48T 400hp

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...1R_743347_1.htm

Vs'

GT2871R 52T-10 460hp each

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_707160_10.htm

I'm looking at building a RB26/30DETT at some stage in the not too distant future and i and seriously looking at running these on that as i imagine that the response of the 48Trim's on a 3 litre would be similar to that of a set of -5 on a 2.6 litre.

Edited by D_Stirls
  • 1 month later...

so are the -9's the middle man between the -7's to -5's?

i have 280rwkw @15psi with r34 turbos, cams big porting forged engine ect (stock afm's are holding me back)

im still trying to decide if i want to go up to the -5's the -7's dont seem worth it over what i already have but if the -9's make a bit more then the -7's with similar response...

i dunno haha

Edited by shy_s6
so are the -9's the middle man between the -7's to -5's?

i have 280rwkw @15psi with r34 turbos, cams big porting forged engine ect (stock afm's are holding me back)

im still trying to decide if i want to go up to the -5's the -7's dont seem worth it over what i already have but if the -9's make a bit more then the -7's with similar response...

i dunno haha

afm wont be holding u back at that power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great to hear you are bringing it out of the shed again. Unless you have specific issues I'd just add the wideband, get a good tune and enjoy it. Certainly no point changing coils etc if they are working. If would add fuel pressure and e85 sensor if you are doing a general update but not if it runs OK and you are just getting it back on track. The other thing is smaller, modern twins, -5 are OK for motorsport but pretty laggy and old tech for street use (of course, if performance is the priority a modern single with twin scroll manifold etc is the go but not cheap). The final thing worth considering is switching to an ethrottle if drivability is still an issue, it should make things a lot simpler and smoother
    • Yeah pretty sure they are m4, but best to check, and perhaps use new hardware Also don't over torque them......there was that one time I lost an expensive engine after a workshop overtorqued one of those bolts and it ended up in the oil pump (no, I don't know why they removed the intake mesh either)
    • I might have to shoot them an email. Pity the exchange rate is so bad at the moment. BTW, thanks for posting that table makes interesting reading. 
    • Add these Sensors -Wideband, Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, Intake air temp Good inspection of ignition system of coils, plugs and loom (12v feed and good ground)- a r35 kit is best bang for buck upgrade. A decent tuner should be able to see any issues with the trigger system- a link has good filtering but a good simple upgrade is the nz wiring bolt in kit. Check and replace all the fuel filters- you would be surprised at intank filter after a few years. Also good to check for any leaks on vac hoses and pipe work as has been said. No need to go overboard and spend big $$$ to enjoy the car. A quality tuner is getting harder to find as anyone with a laptop thinks they are a tuner. A link has great features to check sensor voltages and frequency inputs and easy to see live by pressing f12. The link can do a TPS & RPM fuel/ignition mapping on ITB cars then add a 4D table with MAP and ability to add a 5D to it (can help with economy at cruise with wheel speed vs TPS) Where are you located as that will help narrow down a good tuner ?
    • Reviving an old thread, I reckon my stagea is starting to slip. Car usually gets parked on a hill, narrow driveway so cant go up the driveway smoothly, anyhows, lately first gear feels "sluggish"? Not responsive. Feels like I gotta run the engine more than usual to get off the line...  Any recommendations for transmission servicing in Sydney? Or possibly just an excuse to go manual ?
×
×
  • Create New...