Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

chopobo, you don't need to remove the kickplate or go near the ecu on the passengers side. here is a copy and paste from the skylines faq:

"Just up above the fuse panel inside the car is the diagnostics connector

Turn ignition on, short the two terminals for 2 seconds then remove

The ECU will then be in diag mode.

Shorting two of the pins for two seconds puts the ECU into diag mode, when it is put back out of diag mode it also re-sets the ECU, Dak has wired a switch up to this connector which makes it a lot easier.

Here is a picture of the R32 / R33 diagnostic connector. The pins to bridge are marked X

|O|OO|OO|OO|

|X|XO|OO|OO|

R33 Connector:

You can see the connector if you take the cover off the fuse box, the connector is mounted on a small bracket pointing down"

I just use a paper clip to reset it. Personally i don't notice any difference at all after a reset. Do a search on the forums, theres been a few threads on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/page/2/#findComment-290638
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
ah icic

oh and i can't seem to find the visual led display on the ecu

i manage to remove the kick plate(a big bitch of a job cos it feels like you almost break the damn thing)

and i pulled out the ecu

and only thing i see on it is the lil idle control thingy and next to it a small oval hole with clear film covering it. is that supposed to be the led display? cos i dun see any lights showing. or is it the leds inside the box? do i have to take apart the plates cos that can be a bitch with the loom cable in the way.

The lights don't flash all the time

You need to turn to dial clockwise all the way......then wait about 2 seconds....then turn the dial back anti-clockwise....then the lights should start flashing through the clear window.

Hope this clears up your question

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/page/2/#findComment-820235
Share on other sites

Out of all these methos none of them seem to work..

The closest thing i found was..

Disconenct the battery - dont bother putting your foot on the break because it does nothing, the break wont go in and you wont get any lights happening

Hrmm.. this is quiet interesting.. I have been told that to do a ECU reset (at least for a R34 GTT), disconnecting the battery dont do crap this is due to something about an open circuit.

To reset the ECU someone has to actually "plug into" it to reset it and have been told that this cost ~$80 ?

I have read alot of articles, etc., but has yet seen a car in real life that the prescribed reset ECU procedure (by disconnecting battery) works.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/page/2/#findComment-828959
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

just a word of warning for all you peoples resetting your ECU's...

ONLY disconnect the NEGATIVE terminal on the battery. Because when re-connecting the negative terminal chances of burning out an electric component is far less that the positive.

and yes, resetting the ECU does work (for me anyway - R32)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/page/2/#findComment-864477
Share on other sites

Ok you told us it does something and you've showed us the plug..

but what do you do with it to reset the ecu?

It tells you near the start of this thread dude.

you need to short two of the pins... see the earlier posts..

wil..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/page/2/#findComment-865102
Share on other sites

Correct me if i'm wrong, but i'm positive you can't adjust your timing with the ecu. ECU only control's a/f etc.... and the r33's ecu is a fixed thing, ie, can't be edited. So with that in mind an ecu reset shouldn't do anything with regards to resetting your timing.

wil..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/page/2/#findComment-865139
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Correct me if i'm wrong, but i'm positive you can't adjust your timing with the ecu. ECU only control's a/f etc.... and the r33's ecu is a fixed thing, ie, can't be edited. So with that in mind an ecu reset shouldn't do anything with regards to resetting your timing.

wil..

mmm ... i have read alot about ecu's ...

when u reset the ecu .. it will drop the timing .. back .. and step by step it will come to the right timing .. ( thats what i'v read in a jap site long time ago )

but it will give u the right timing at the end ... ( so its not a problem at all )

QuickR33Melb

i think u'v reset it on the dyno and test it ... so it didnt reach the right timing yet ... !! i donno ..this is strang !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/page/2/#findComment-939051
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

i resetted my ecu everytime i had a bolt on upgrade e.g. filter, sparkies, fmic, full exhaust etc.. and made a big diff ..

all i did was disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and turned on every single thing i could think of e.g. lights, rear demister (wit ignition key to start), hold down the horn button, pressed down the brake pedal etc ... then after 30mins i plugged in the negative cable again and start the car with full continuous x3 revs to constant 3500rpm then gradually to 7000rpm ....then x2 full revs from 0-7000rpm ..

after that i took the car for a hard run and the car runs hard and quite.

try it outz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/page/2/#findComment-1325398
Share on other sites

Bugger me if i'm wrong.. i have a r33 and i couldnt find that damn plug!?!?!

Don't worry bro.....me neither!!

I just unplug the battery, (open the circuit), and if there is an E2 or Eprom that stores the 'memory' we're trying to reset....then it's pointless too.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/page/2/#findComment-1331180
Share on other sites

Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes definitely clears the error codes.

I did it on the weekend. I had 2 error codes, did a reset and they were gone.

After the reset I took the car for a bit of a "test" drive and checked for the error codes and it was all OK.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/page/2/#findComment-1332445
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, the latter. No diff should have a centre replaced without checking clearances because its unlikely to be the same as whatever came out. Not that that stops most people just checking a new centre in
    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
×
×
  • Create New...