Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i was told to post here for some help so i thought i'd try...

I have a 1986 Nissan Skyline R31 GT Passage RB20DE Redtop Automatic.

I also bought a 1990 R31 GXE RB30E Manual (Auz assembled)

I have taken the whole driveline out of the GXE and chucked it in the Passage and everything bolted up sweet (except gbox crossmember and driveshaft which i sussed out)

But now the strange part.. i took over the whole ECU and loom and it all plugs in, but the car wont start?

So i put a lead straight from the battery to the starter and the engine turns over, but doesnt spark (i looked at a spark plug and it had no spark)

Apparantly i need to make it think that its stuck in park in order for the ignition to work, but im out of ideas as to why theres no spark?

Distributer and coil are sweet as...

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated...

Cheers

Rorz :P

Seems likely that you have the GXE engine loom and the Passage body loom.

If the engine doesn't crank over with the key in 'start' position then you probably have Passage wiring expecting to connect to engine wiring that includes a park/neutral safety switch.

Since that switch ain't there then it isn't going to get 12V to the starter solenoid.

That it all plugs together doesn't mean it's wired the same.

You're going to need a Passage manual with wiring diags and a GXE manual with wiring diags.

Then you're gonna need lot's of patience to compare them and work out what's missing and what isn't connected where it should be.

Good luck

oh, and if you have used the GXE ECU then you don't need any other ECU

I'm inclined to suspect that the Passage wiring doesn't provide a power supply to the ECU when used with the GXE engine harness

Edited by aarc240

ok sweet thanks for the replies, i'll probably tow her down to the auto elecs then cause that sounds a bit over me aye. Im using the GXE harness too (The wiring that goes to the battery, starter, alternator etc) so it shouldnt be too hard to fix, although it still doesnt explain why its not getting spark.

Cheers anyway guys

Cheers for that mate, but i've already towed her down to the auto elecs. Let them sort it out, one more quick question.. my driveshaft is a weeee bit too long (the whole spline on the yoke is in the gearbox), what does this mean? Someone said it could rip my oil seal out?

And also, since im using an Auto Diff, i will have different diff ratio correct? Which means it could be slower??

Cheers

Rorz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pete knows these cars well, he does my car too, if he was concerned about the traction arm length for your use he would have said so. Do you have adjustable bushes in that arm, maybe he got enough adjustment there (or maybe the bump steer was not material for your use of the car)
    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
    • Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech! 
×
×
  • Create New...