Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got one in mine as it came with it.

pros,

handle high HP

handle a shit load of abuse(high rpm launches)

last a long time still going after 5 years of use

well built and engineered

no slippage

con's

gearbox breaker (no spring dampers or give)

bitch in stop start traffic

I thought more torque loading etc that the clutch lets through (quad vs triple) would mean more stress on the gearbox (physics), unless it has damper springs etc to take up shockloading. Still punishing gearbox though.

OS GIKKEN STR twin sounds good.......

Yeah i thought the same thing, Kier wilson explained it to me and showed me the differance between the clutches. Somehow the quad plate puts less effort on the driveline than the triple. if indoubt feel free to give Willalls a call, they had the trpiples in both there GTR's and now run the quad's as they found them easier and more friendly to drive. YEs they are the OS distributers here in S.A and would try to make a slae off the quad rather than the triple but i got the quad at the same price.

Fair enough, main thing is as long as you are happy with it, go with it.

I'm happy with my os triple as it has lasted so long (daily driver, 380ish RWHP) and only one busted g box so far, 3rd gear.

well the number of plates has very little bearing on driveability at all.

two equal clutches. both puck type. both metallic friction material. both same pressure plate. both solid centre. one is a tripple, one is a quad. I can tell you now they will both be the same to drive.

things that affect driveability of a clutch:

force of pressure plate

type of friction material used

style of plate (full face, puck type etc)

sprung/dampened centre

saying a quad plate is easier to drive than a tripple is still a useless statement. there are hundreds of types of each clutch. if I had a sprung centre, full faced, 1000kg pressure plate tripple plate. and on your advice that a quad plate will be better went and bought one. and it was solid centre, puck style plate, 1600kg pressure plate which do you think would be easier to drive? and kinder on the gearbox?

exactly. :) my point is. saying quads are better than tripples for driveability is not acurate. of all the factors in clutch design it probably has the least impact on driveability. and yes I've driven plenty of singles, quite a few twins, a number of triples and a couple of quads. I had an OS tripple in my GTR for over a year, and an OS twin in it for about a year.

so you guys wouldn't recommend a triple plate for daily driving? What power will a streetable twin plate hold up?

I converted my solid centre HKS twin plate to a sprung centre. Absolutely transformed the car (was a bitch to drive previously in stop start traffic) and seems to be surviving 400 rwkw abuse OK.

yep, massive difference between solid/sprung centre clutches.

and ookami, like i said, it depends on the type of tripple we are talking about.

if you are talking OS solid centre, puck style, tripple then no, it's no good for daily driving. if you are talking full face, sprung centre tripple, with a not too extreme clamp force then yes, it should be fine for street use.

Just get Jim to make you a clutch if your worried.

Tough as nails, great for street driving

best advice anyone could give you....

i daily drive my GTR, jim berry built mine.. it is a single plate button with a carbonics plate.. bites HARD.

and considering he built it cheaper than what a stock replacement costs... can't go wrong

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...