Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've not had the GTR experience but if the AFRs and timimng are right it should not be shoking if driven in normal mode .

I got some pics somewhere of a couple of engines being tuned on Allen Engineerings engine dyno using Autronic map sensed computers . It seems they like to have a MAF sensor in front of the turbo and log the airflow input as they tune . Message in there somewhere .

as jon said hyperdrive here in wa who are one of the biggest workshops push the djetro for larger twin turbo gtrs to eliminate turbo shuffling

fit and tune is about 100$ more that std pfc .

given the djetro is about 300$ more than std and 100$ more to fit and tune I think your still up on the cost of x2 z32 AFMs bought new plus all the changes to the intake to fit them

Edited by arkon
Just to clarify, the first tuner I went to had a lot of dramas and I ended up taking it to Mark Jacobsen at Godzilla Motorsport and he had no problems at all. At the time I would say I was one of the first D-Jetros in Brisbane but I would say by now there are quite a few people who can tune them.

And as for fuel economy, I've never referred to any GTR as having excellent fuel economy with any ECU. :no:

Hey,

main post updated >_< I'm not hugely worried about the tuning side of things; more about the running. Yes, the running's only

as good as the tune; but if I can run a D-Jetro and have as good running behaviour from the D-Jetro I'd like to delete the AFMs.

Thanks again,

Saliya

edit: anybody from Sydney running a D-Jetro that would be willing to chauffeur me on a short trip? Anyone ? :happy:

A case of New could be yours for the having if bribery's required :spam::huh:

Edited by saliya

So - anyone else with a d-jetro? If you don't want your information publicized I'm happy to add it to the initial post anonymously.

Anyone want to 'dob in a mate' (I will PM them privately) :laugh: :laugh:

Thanks,

Saliya

I've just had a d-jetro fitted to my R32 GTR>

-Driveability is perfect - makes 247rwkw with stocker turbs on 1Bar

-Fitted and Tuned by Hyperdrive in Perth

- Not sure how long it took exactly- left it with them one day picked it up the next

- standard plenum/throttles

Not sure what all the negative press about d-jetros is all about?

If you can pick one up for the right price like I did, then why not.

Cheers,

Tay

p.s. And if it's the price you are concerned about - sell stock afm's and there is the small difference ($400 odd) referrred to earlier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...