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Hi guys,

I recently posted this message in the Stagea forums (found here), but didn't receive any replies, and I don't want to have to PM Sydneykid yet again :laugh: So any help from anyone would be much appreciated!

These questions are regarding the Jaycar Independent Electronic Boost Controller (IEBC) and Digital Fuel Adjuster (DFA) kits. I have finally managed to build and install both these kits, however I have only got the IEBC operating for the moment.

I have an auto SII R33 GTS-T, the only power mod being an Apexi pod filter. I had to solder up the restrictor (standard was 1.5mm hole) and redrill it to 1.2mm. I used Sydneykid's boost map from page 8 of the Stagea thread (found here) as a base (haven't changed this yet, haven't had time). I've installed an aftermarket boost gauge that reads in psi - hope it's accurate!

1. Boost builds fairly rapidly to about 12.5 psi, and seems to hold there until redline. I want to run the highest boost possible that's safe for turbo longevity. I'd like to make it 10 psi, but would 11 or 12 be OK? Is 12.5 too high? I remember someone saying that the pressure drop across the stock intercooler could be as much as 3 psi above a certain boost pressure. Does anyone know what this pressure is? So in other words, if I'm showing 12.5 psi on my boost gauge, what is the turbo actually producing? And is it safe to leave it at that boost level?

2. Something I've noticed that's a bit weird is that when the A/C compressor turns on, the input load point goes straight to 64! If I start driving with a reasonable load, it seems to return to what it should be, and I haven't noticed any overboosting with the A/C on. Anyone else experienced this? What could it be caused by?

3. My high/low switch doesn't appear to be working (it was before), so I'm just using the low boost curve for the moment. Could this be causing the weird A/C compressor full load readings?

4. When I'm boosting hard, around 3-5000 rpms the power suddenly cuts momentarily, then comes back on, then cuts out, several times a second. Is this the rich & retard strategy of the ECU cutting in? What could this be caused by? I have a DFA installed but it hasn't been tuned yet. Could getting that setup at the dyno be able to fix this problem? Or could it be because I'm simply running too much boost? The turbo also seems to be making a sort of swirling or noise, like it's cutting in and out a bit, or what I'd imagine compressor surge would sound like, but only on high boost. What could this be? It sounds like the pod filter is shaking around, but possibly it's because of the rich & retard making the engine come on and off power, and thus boost?

5. Would it be more fuel efficient to have the car boost up when I want to overtake in top gear, or have it go down a gear? Is it possible to change this, and how?

6. The car doesn't seem all that much faster below about 5,500 rpm (although that may just be an illusion :( ) but above that, it absolutely flies. Why is this, and is it just my imagination? Watching the boost gauge, it is around 12.5 psi flat all the way through from about 3,000 rpm. Having thought about this for a while, I think it may just be the ECU rich & retard cutting power below 5,500 rpm.

Any help is much appreciated! I'm an absolute noob when it comes to car mods so I can't really do much stuff myself, and I don't want to accidentally break anything trying to! :( It has taken me AGES to get this far...

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Hi guys,

I recently posted this message in the Stagea forums (found here), but didn't receive any replies, and I don't want to have to PM Sydneykid yet again :P So any help from anyone would be much appreciated!

These questions are regarding the Jaycar Independent Electronic Boost Controller (IEBC) and Digital Fuel Adjuster (DFA) kits. I have finally managed to build and install both these kits, however I have only got the IEBC operating for the moment.

I have an auto SII R33 GTS-T, the only power mod being an Apexi pod filter. I had to solder up the restrictor (standard was 1.5mm hole) and redrill it to 1.2mm. I used Sydneykid's boost map from page 8 of the Stagea thread (found here) as a base (haven't changed this yet, haven't had time). I've installed an aftermarket boost gauge that reads in psi - hope it's accurate!

1. Boost builds fairly rapidly to about 12.5 psi, and seems to hold there until redline. I want to run the highest boost possible that's safe for turbo longevity. I'd like to make it 10 psi, but would 11 or 12 be OK? Is 12.5 too high? I remember someone saying that the pressure drop across the stock intercooler could be as much as 3 psi above a certain boost pressure. Does anyone know what this pressure is? So in other words, if I'm showing 12.5 psi on my boost gauge, what is the turbo actually producing? And is it safe to leave it at that boost level?

2. Something I've noticed that's a bit weird is that when the A/C compressor turns on, the input load point goes straight to 64! If I start driving with a reasonable load, it seems to return to what it should be, and I haven't noticed any overboosting with the A/C on. Anyone else experienced this? What could it be caused by?

3. My high/low switch doesn't appear to be working (it was before), so I'm just using the low boost curve for the moment. Could this be causing the weird A/C compressor full load readings?

4. When I'm boosting hard, around 3-5000 rpms the power suddenly cuts momentarily, then comes back on, then cuts out, several times a second. Is this the rich & retard strategy of the ECU cutting in? What could this be caused by? I have a DFA installed but it hasn't been tuned yet. Could getting that setup at the dyno be able to fix this problem? Or could it be because I'm simply running too much boost? The turbo also seems to be making a sort of swirling or noise, like it's cutting in and out a bit, or what I'd imagine compressor surge would sound like, but only on high boost. What could this be? It sounds like the pod filter is shaking around, but possibly it's because of the rich & retard making the engine come on and off power, and thus boost?

5. Would it be more fuel efficient to have the car boost up when I want to overtake in top gear, or have it go down a gear? Is it possible to change this, and how?

6. The car doesn't seem all that much faster below about 5,500 rpm (although that may just be an illusion :) ) but above that, it absolutely flies. Why is this, and is it just my imagination? Watching the boost gauge, it is around 12.5 psi flat all the way through from about 3,000 rpm. Having thought about this for a while, I think it may just be the ECU rich & retard cutting power below 5,500 rpm.

Any help is much appreciated! I'm an absolute noob when it comes to car mods so I can't really do much stuff myself, and I don't want to accidentally break anything trying to! :huh: It has taken me AGES to get this far...

I get to reply anyway.

1. I personally wouldn't (and don't) use over 10psi with a standard turbo. So a search "sydneykid", "+ceramic +in +the +cat" and "any datte for detailed reasons why.

2. The input load point (injecor duty cycle) should go up as the ECU advances the ignition and bypasses more air to keep the idle strength when the air con load is applied.

3. Check the circuit

4. R&R mapping

5. Learn how to use the throttle to control the kick down

6. R&R mapping is vicious at lower rpm when the airflow is much higher than standard. As the rpm increases, the % difference in airflow is less, so the R&R mapping is not as vicious.

:no: cheers :D

I get to reply anyway.

1. I personally wouldn't (and don't) use over 10psi with a standard turbo. So a search "sydneykid", "+ceramic +in +the +cat" and "any datte for detailed reasons why.

2. The input load point (injecor duty cycle) should go up as the ECU advances the ignition and bypasses more air to keep the idle strength when the air con load is applied.

3. Check the circuit

4. R&R mapping

5. Learn how to use the throttle to control the kick down

6. R&R mapping is vicious at lower rpm when the airflow is much higher than standard. As the rpm increases, the % difference in airflow is less, so the R&R mapping is not as vicious.

:P cheers :huh:

LoL. Thanks for replying anyway Sydneykid. At least now others can see what you wrote! :no:

Yep, I think I'm gonna try and reduce the boost to 10psi. However, as you can see by your own map, the solenoid is already at a 90% max duty cycle, so I doubt I can run much less. I have a 1.2mm vent hole, so I guess the increased boost is due to my pod filter? And the only solution is to go to a smaller hole? Would you suggest, say, a 1.0mm?

About the A/C problem, the load point goes straight to 64, not just slightly higher than 5-7 which is the typical idle load point. Could I have hooked something up to the wrong wire in the ECU or is it totally unrelated? Like I said before, once there's a bit of load (say over 20), if the A/C compressor is on, it doesn't really seem to affect the input readout, so I assume it should be OK to leave it as it is?

About the throttle kickdown, is the trick to press down on the accelerator more than usual, and quickly, to make it kick down a gear, then ease off a bit to reduce boost? So is more boost or more revs more fuel efficient, assuming I've got the DFA tuned properly?

And finally, what is the single most cost effective mod I can do to get more power? I'm talking less than $500 here, at least initially up front. I'd like to try and avoid an exhaust since I don't like big exhausts with autos (it's just a thing I have). What about an R34 GT-T intercooler? I'd like to have something that's a straight bolt on, ie: minimise labour, since I'd have to pay someone to install it. Is that a worthy upgrade, and is it worth doing if I'm going to stick to 10psi? What about a rebuilt turbo? Someone mentioned a T3/T4 for $500 shipped from Japan, rebuilt by Garrett.

I've heard that the stock auto box is good for about 200rwkw, so I definitely won't be aiming for more than that. So I'm aiming for 180-200 rwkw. I don't think this is possible for $500, but what will get me the closest for that amount of money?

I have a quick question, how hard are these things to tune by yourself, They certainly seam like a nice option, so i was thinking of giving it a try.

HAY SYDNEYKID, how do you find the controller, is it hard to tune by yourself? Any more info

LoL. Thanks for replying anyway Sydneykid. At least now others can see what you wrote! :spam:

Yep, I think I'm gonna try and reduce the boost to 10psi.

1. However, as you can see by your own map, the solenoid is already at a 90% max duty cycle, so I doubt I can run much less. I have a 1.2mm vent hole, so I guess the increased boost is due to my pod filter? And the only solution is to go to a smaller hole? Would you suggest, say, a 1.0mm?

2. About the A/C problem, the load point goes straight to 64, not just slightly higher than 5-7 which is the typical idle load point. Could I have hooked something up to the wrong wire in the ECU or is it totally unrelated? Like I said before, once there's a bit of load (say over 20), if the A/C compressor is on, it doesn't really seem to affect the input readout, so I assume it should be OK to leave it as it is?

3. About the throttle kickdown, is the trick to press down on the accelerator more than usual, and quickly, to make it kick down a gear, then ease off a bit to reduce boost? So is more boost or more revs more fuel efficient, assuming I've got the DFA tuned properly?

4. And finally, what is the single most cost effective mod I can do to get more power? I'm talking less than $500 here, at least initially up front. I'd like to try and avoid an exhaust since I don't like big exhausts with autos (it's just a thing I have).

5. What about an R34 GT-T intercooler? I'd like to have something that's a straight bolt on, ie: minimise labour, since I'd have to pay someone to install it. Is that a worthy upgrade, and is it worth doing if I'm going to stick to 10psi?

6. What about a rebuilt turbo? Someone mentioned a T3/T4 for $500 shipped from Japan, rebuilt by Garrett.

7. I've heard that the stock auto box is good for about 200rwkw, so I definitely won't be aiming for more than that. So I'm aiming for 180-200 rwkw.

8. I don't think this is possible for $500, but what will get me the closest for that amount of money?

1. Try a 1mm vent hole, that should give you more duty cycle to play with

2. Maybe check that you actually do have injector #1 as the load source.

3. You got it, high RPM generally uses more fuel than boost at lower RPM. Try the “power” button on the trans it makes the shifts more “sporty”

4. Exhaust, on a turbo engine, exhaust is ALWAYS the first mod you should do. DEFINITELY the best bag for buck power upgrade you can make on any turbo engine.

5. Not as good as upgrading the exhaust, worth doing AFTER the exhaust

6. Not worth doing for your power target, wouldn’t work very well without an exhaust upgrade anyway.

7. It depends on how you drive it, how big the trans cooler is, how good the hydraulic fluid is etc etc. I have seen a few cars wiht 225 rwkw and no auto problems and I have seen 145 rwkw with lots of problems.

8. Spend $500 on the exhaust, best value for money

>_< cheers :happy:

PS; did I mention you should do the exhaust upgrade next?

Edited by Sydneykid

OK OK, I get the message, the exhaust is the next mod I should do! However, I now have some questions about this as I remember researching exhausts a while ago and decided I should avoid it because it appears that it will cost me at least $1-1.5k for something decent that's not too loud.

So, can I actually get a worthy exhaust upgrade for $500, and how much of it should I replace? Obviously, the more I can replace the better, but is there a point where, for $500, I should only replace a portion with really high quality parts rather than the whole thing with sub-standard quality parts?

The other thing I gathered was that high flowing exhaust systems that are not much louder than stock are really expensive. People were saying that a 3" seemed to provide a good compromise between ground clearance, power potential and driveability. I went to an exhaust place and asked about a dual 2.25" system (stainless?) and they said around $1.5k, waaaay over my budget. I think they said about $1k for a single 3" system, and I have no idea how good it would have been.

So, I guess I'm asking, for $500, what parts of the exhaust should I replace, will it be much louder than stock, how much extra power will I get, and are there any brands that are particularly cheap yet are of a high quality construction? And I should probably also ask how much power it would be good for, ie: if I were to go for a new turbo or intercooler afterwards, would the $500 worth of exhaust mods be good enough or would I need to spend more on it?

I know this whole thing is OT from the original question, but it's still specific to my situation so I don't really think I need to start a whole new thread?

Thanks for the help!

I have a quick question, how hard are these things to tune by yourself, They certainly seam like a nice option, so i was thinking of giving it a try.

HAY SYDNEYKID, how do you find the controller, is it hard to tune by yourself? Any more info

Well, like I mentioned in the original post, I just used Sydneykid's boost map as a base to start with. I'm going to try this same map with a 1.0mm hole (there will be a large difference in what boost I run just going from a 1.2mm to 1.0mm hole), and I'll let you know how that goes. I have a sneaking suspicion that it will hold the boost nice and flat like it does now, just at a lower boost level. Possibly this map could be used as a base map for all RB25's, and the hole size could be used as the boost adjustment?

This is probably the hardest way to tune it to the boost level you desire, but you would normally have two people in the car to tune it. The Performance Electronics for Cars mag, available from Jaycar (highly recommended if you're going to build these kits) details how you should tune the boost map, and it's really not that hard. I just haven't had a whole lot of time, or an available assistant, to help me tune it :) Hopefully I'll get something done this Sunday...

I've never used any other form of boost control, but from what I've read on these forums, bleed valves are nice and cheap but they can spike (and thus blow your turbo), and other electronic boost controllers that work in a similar way are up in the multiple hundreds of $$$. From the few days I've used mine, although I'm running too much boost, it is held dead flat at 12.5psi from maybe 3000rpm all the way to 7000rpm (too busy watching the road to see where the boost threshold is :( ). But the main thing is, keeping in mind that I've never built any electronic kits in my life before these, if you can read and follow instructions, and have 10-15 hrs to spare building the hand controller, IEBC and DFA, and have a friend around to help you install it, it's definitely excellent bang for your bucks.

In an attempt to answer the question directed at Sydneykid, I don't think the actual use of the hand controller itself is difficult at all. You basically have a high and low boost map, and each map has 64 load points. Each load point equates to your injector duty cycle, which is roughly equivalent to how far your foot is down on the accelerator pedal :O You then have an output figure, which is the duty cycle (as a percentage) of the boost control solenoid. The higher the number, the more it restricts boost, ie: you want higher boost, you lower the duty cycle. If you were asking about how hard the actual kit is to build, it is the easiest out of the three, and looks the most impressive also :) Regarding the installation, I didn't have a hope of doing it myself as I've never modded a car before. Looking back, I probably could have worked it out all myself, but I was too scared to attempt it as I didn't want to break anything. The hardest part was splicing the wires into the ECU, and once I understood the reasoning behind the pipes that need to be rerouted from the boost solenoid, that was all pretty easy. It's definitely worth a look! Just my 2.2c... :)

Exhaust wise, your best bet would be starting with getting a cat back. Have a look in the for sale threads for second hand cat backs, dont get a cannon style one if you want it to be quiet. Should be less than $500 easy. 3" is perfecto.

Then replace the dump/front pipe with either a 3" dump/front pipe in one or better still a split 3" dump/front in one. $200-400.

Then replace your cat with either a high flow or one of the new metal substrate ones. $200-450.

And whola, one turbo back exhaust.

OK, I have another question... I took out the restrictor, resoldered it, and redrilled a 1.0mm hole. At first, it appeared to be holding about 10.5 psi (is this safe?), but it was going R&R because it was about 32C outside. That night, it was about 18C outside, so I floored it and it went straight up to 15 psi, maybe higher, but I immediately took my foot off. Why could this be?

My line of thinking is that it held 10.5 psi during the day because the R&R was restricting the power so much that no more boost could be made. So at night, when it was cooler, the R&R wasn't as savage, and thus I could build more boost.

Now, in order to get the restrictor out, I had to cut it out and buy some more piping which was a slightly larger inner diameter than the original, so the fitting over the T-piece is a little looser than before. Not so loose that it will just fall off, but even with my dodgy effort at clamping it on with some copper wire, you can still pull it off easily with your hand. The other end is even looser because the plastic fitting appears to be even smaller than the T-piece. So, could it be that air is getting out from the sides of the T-piece, in between it and the restrictor? That would essentially mean that I have no wastegate control! I am still using Sydneykid's original map, ie: a max. solenoid duty cycle of 90%.

Anyone know if and where I can buy the little clamps that came over the pipes of the T-piece?

Hay mate i have thesame problem, well basically i have the stock selenoid connected back up, as the turbotech was doing nothing.

At night and in the morning if i go past 5000rpm the boost comes up to 12-13psi, but if warm boost stayes at about 10psi.

I have a FMIC, dump pipe and exhaust and no cat, HKS pod and safc II.

This only started to happen when i took my cat out, it seams now that the turbo has NO restriction it just goes off it's nuts.

I am not using the JAYCAR EBC yet, but i wanted to see if the stock selenoid would controll boost or not, it holds 10psi form about 3000rpm and then goes over above 5000rpm.

ANY IDEAS???

So does your engine go into R&R above 12-13psi? Like, does it sort of stutter and lose power intermittently? I've found that even slightly over 7-8 psi on a warm day (28C and over), it will go into R&R. And even on a fairly cool night (under 20C) it will do the same thing at around 10-12psi. Have you seen how high the boost will go? Possibly it won't go any higher than 15 psi or so? I'd suggest avoiding trying this too often though :)

AFAIK, the stock wastegate spring is set for 4-5psi or so, so possibly if you disconnected the solenoid, you should be able to reduce the boost to that level? I'm a noob with this stuff, but I guess you'd directly connect the intercooler return pipe directly to the wastegate actuator? Possibly you didn't connect all the pipes up correctly and that's why the solenoid isn't working?

Just another question, does anyone know if I can stop the R&R if I tune the DFA? Also, any ideas on why I'm running virtually unlimited boost? How many times can I run 15psi for a second or so while I'm testing before the turbo stuffs up?

wellnot sure if it is R&R but it definatly drops off in a hole at 4500rpm and the the boost dropes off a bit and up she comes.

I am using the stock controller for now and i t gets up to 12 psi and then bleeds off a bit. I tried a few different piping routings ect and no different.

So now to get a EBC and go from there, i think the JAYCAr unit sounds like a bargain, but i am also looking into some HYBRID units, they have controller like the APEXI AVC-R for 1/3 the price and same functions.

I have emailed HYBRID to get some more details but if somone has anythign on HYBRID that would be great.

AS to boost, well i have managed to get 15 psi a few times and still alive, but i would not allow to do so for long.

wellnot sure if it is R&R but it definatly drops off in a hole at 4500rpm and the the boost dropes off a bit and up she comes.

Hey, sorry about the delay, haven't had net access for a while :laugh:

That does sound like R&R. I may be able to notice it a bit more since I can hear it through the very loud pod filter :unsure: Although with mine, boost was dead stable at 12.5psi all the way to 7000rpm but I suspect since the engine's natural torque curve would max out at around 4500rpm, that is why it is going into R&R at that point, and as the volumetric efficiency drops off from 5500rpm, the R&R stops and you can make max power again.

One thing to check is, does your solenoid actually work properly? Although, thinking about it, that should mean that you can't run as much boost, not more than you should be!

I'm actually interested in those Hybrid things. Obviously I don't need one now, but if I do ever buy another turbocharged car and I can get one for really cheap, I may look at one of those instead of a Jaycar kit, as long as they work the same way (ie: fastest possible boost build up, hold boost at max all the way to redline).

You see my problem is that on cold days i get up to 13 psi and on a warm day, i get 8-10 psi, so it's hard to set the car up. I actaually need a boost controller that will regulate the boost level that i set, this has to actually measeure the incoming boost levels to regulate it.

Like this mornign the boost creped up to 13 psi but 3 days ago when it was 30 deg C, it only came up to 9 psi, so who knows. The selenoid works, but my problem is that eaven using the Turbotech controller i have the same problem, which is weird.

Yep, I've been having the same problem. I don't think it's a problem with your boost controller, I think it's because the engine's going into R&R, which limits power, which limits exhaust, and thus boost. This is only a guess though. Can anyone verify this?

I think once you have your engine's AFR tuned on the dyno, your problems should disappear. You will probably have to reset your boost controller to a safe boost level though. Again, this is all an assumption.

I myself have been waiting for a cool enough day so I can test just how high my boost will go with my current settings, so that I know how small a hole to drill in the restrictor!

Hey People.

I had a DFA and it did get rid of the r&r. ECU goes into an R&R mode when the AFM maxes out at 5.1volts.

HOWEVER, and this is a big however, we (the tuner and I) only got around to pulling out voltage with the DFA the second time we tuned it.

The first time I went, we put it on the dyno and did a run only to find that the AFR's were already close to 12.5... which is what you want, and also a little strange. It should have been way rich.

We ended up adding voltage with the DFA as the more boost we dialled into the IEBC to get 11PSI (which by the way is what he recommended for standard turbos) the more R&R we were getting.

It turns out that the fuel pump wasn't supplying enough fuel, even at 11psi, and the knock microphones were picking up detonation, so the ECU gave it a whole lot of R&R.

Stock GTST fuel pumps never seem to have enough push and you will most probably need to replace it. I bought a Walbro off this forum and it was good. Bosch are supposedly better, but harder to fit, or a GTR pump will work as well.

With your leaky hose, if you suspect it is leaking, get a corkscrew clamp. You might be better off with a brass t piece as well...

Edit - fix garmmar and speling miztakes

Edited by chrissso

well i have already had my car on the dyno, and it seamed ok SAFC II, the R&R does not actually mean you have reached the limit of the airflow meter.

It means you have too much air flow at a given RPM.

How does R&R feel, mine just seams to stop pulling and then takes off again.

ALSO, i have all the supporting mods, pump ect, so the car is good but the ecu sux, i am going to try and buy one that has the R&R removed and go from there.

However my coild are shit and i had to regap down again on the weekend, it seams everymonth they get worse, so down to .7mm we go

It means you have too much air flow at a given RPM.

How does R&R feel, mine just seams to stop pulling and then takes off again.

I aggree with that. Wasn't specific enough.

R&R - mine would just go great till about 4500, then just chug along...

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