Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok currently got my RB25DET out of the car, rebuild starting next week hopefully.

So far in parts ive got

Arias Forged Pistons

Cometic .74" thick Metal Head Gasket

New Bearings, Seals & Gaskets

Tomei IN&EX Poncams

Tomei Cam Gears

Iv also got to put on one the motor is run in

Garret GT30R 500hp internally wastegated turbo

Apexi PowerFC & Hand Controller

Nismo 555cc Injectors

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump

Now i wanted to know while im rebuilding the motor if i should get some SCAT rods and ARP studs, i am hoping for max 300rwkw and run daily on 200-250rwkw. Im wondering how strong the stock bottom end is on the RB25DET and if i need rods or can i get away with the stockers.

GTR Rods are what you want, with good rod bolts.

You dont need to fork out for big $$$ rods, no need.

$400 at the absolute worst, so they are very cheap, and extremely worthwhile, good for 300rwkw easily.

I HAVE ARIAS PISTONS & THE RINGS ARE SHOT AFTER ABOUT 25000 KLM THE RINGS ARE SHIT GET SOME TOTAL SEAL RINGS TNT TYPE INSTEAD. I HAD THE SAME SETUP AS YOUR ABOUT TO DO A I GOT APPROX 260RWKW @ 18 PSI GOOD LUCK

GTR Rods are what you want, with good rod bolts.

You dont need to fork out for big $$$ rods, no need.

$400 at the absolute worst, so they are very cheap, and extremely worthwhile, good for 300rwkw easily.

haha I picked up a set of GTR rods in excellent condition for $90.

What sort of power could I push them to?

Surely std rb25 rods will hold 300rwkws. Normally at that stage pistons are first to go unless the tune is spot on. Im in the process of putting my rb25 back together as well. ACL pistons though. Im also only gonna be around 250rwkws max 300. I have same headgasket and similar bolt ons. Im using std rods and bolts and if someone says to change to GTR ones im gonna kill someone cause those stupid farking spiral locks are a goddamn prick to put on and i really dont wanna do it again :laugh:

Edited by r33_racer

Do you wanna find out if they will hold it forever? :laugh:

Possibly not on the standard bolts... its not really proven over a long period

Its really just a case of...

Motor is apart, the rods are filthy cheap... why not change em for a couple hundred! Cheap insurance if ive ever seen it.

Yeah Id go the GTR rods with new ARP bolts. I had mine shot peened, resized and linished - but for all that you can buy new forged rods. So prob just use the GTR rods with new bolts.

ACL and there double spiral locks - what a pain in the arse they are.

I HAVE ARIAS PISTONS & THE RINGS ARE SHOT AFTER ABOUT 25000 KLM THE RINGS ARE SHIT GET SOME TOTAL SEAL RINGS TNT TYPE INSTEAD. I HAD THE SAME SETUP AS YOUR ABOUT TO DO A I GOT APPROX 260RWKW @ 18 PSI GOOD LUCK

Some one didnt let them bed in properly :(

30psi, 500rwhp on arias piston... they work!

GTR Rods are what you want, with good rod bolts.

You dont need to fork out for big $$$ rods, no need.

$400 at the absolute worst, so they are very cheap, and extremely worthwhile, good for 300rwkw easily.

you tell me? ur the one referring GTR Rods..

man ur quick on the replies, respect! :(

i HAVE read the first post, im just answering ur question to why i was talkin about the bottom end being good for 300rwkw..

now we can all go and stick our heads in a canape and sing kumbaya!

:S

man ur quick on the replies, respect! :(

i HAVE read the first post, im just answering ur question to why i was talkin about the bottom end being good for 300rwkw..

now we can all go and stick our heads in a canape and sing kumbaya!

:S

Dan, ill have a race for you if you ever come up to Darwin again, lol. On a safe tune what kind of power could i expect, this has already blown way out of budget so if im looking at 250 to 270rwkw then i prolly wont bother with rods. Also had timing belt replaced 300km before motor leaned out, so would the standard Nissan timing belt be ok.

GTR rods definately be a better decision because for the price you can get them it's a safer decision, it's what I'm getting! Sizing & balancing while it's all getting done at once too. Also a N1 oil pump instead of a standard one would be a decent upgrade as well.

I also had my timing belt replaced about 2000k's before mine popped, but I've been told a heavy duty belt would just be a safer option, also good while it's there & opened :(

Dan, ill have a race for you if you ever come up to Darwin again, lol. On a safe tune what kind of power could i expect, this has already blown way out of budget so if im looking at 250 to 270rwkw then i prolly wont bother with rods. Also had timing belt replaced 300km before motor leaned out, so would the standard Nissan timing belt be ok.

Haha damien your funny, brodie told me yours poppped, do not get hi tech to tune it lol. and my power goals are a bit more than your mate lol. got a whole new set up now lol. just buy a gates timing belt mate thre 110 bucks and good investment.

things to definatly get:

idler tensioner; $100

new bolts for the idler tensioner: $15 (very imporatant to replace)

get race bearings too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
×
×
  • Create New...