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Ok currently got my RB25DET out of the car, rebuild starting next week hopefully.

So far in parts ive got

Arias Forged Pistons

Cometic .74" thick Metal Head Gasket

New Bearings, Seals & Gaskets

Tomei IN&EX Poncams

Tomei Cam Gears

Iv also got to put on one the motor is run in

Garret GT30R 500hp internally wastegated turbo

Apexi PowerFC & Hand Controller

Nismo 555cc Injectors

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump

Now i wanted to know while im rebuilding the motor if i should get some SCAT rods and ARP studs, i am hoping for max 300rwkw and run daily on 200-250rwkw. Im wondering how strong the stock bottom end is on the RB25DET and if i need rods or can i get away with the stockers.

GTR Rods are what you want, with good rod bolts.

You dont need to fork out for big $$$ rods, no need.

$400 at the absolute worst, so they are very cheap, and extremely worthwhile, good for 300rwkw easily.

I HAVE ARIAS PISTONS & THE RINGS ARE SHOT AFTER ABOUT 25000 KLM THE RINGS ARE SHIT GET SOME TOTAL SEAL RINGS TNT TYPE INSTEAD. I HAD THE SAME SETUP AS YOUR ABOUT TO DO A I GOT APPROX 260RWKW @ 18 PSI GOOD LUCK

GTR Rods are what you want, with good rod bolts.

You dont need to fork out for big $$$ rods, no need.

$400 at the absolute worst, so they are very cheap, and extremely worthwhile, good for 300rwkw easily.

haha I picked up a set of GTR rods in excellent condition for $90.

What sort of power could I push them to?

Surely std rb25 rods will hold 300rwkws. Normally at that stage pistons are first to go unless the tune is spot on. Im in the process of putting my rb25 back together as well. ACL pistons though. Im also only gonna be around 250rwkws max 300. I have same headgasket and similar bolt ons. Im using std rods and bolts and if someone says to change to GTR ones im gonna kill someone cause those stupid farking spiral locks are a goddamn prick to put on and i really dont wanna do it again :laugh:

Edited by r33_racer

Do you wanna find out if they will hold it forever? :laugh:

Possibly not on the standard bolts... its not really proven over a long period

Its really just a case of...

Motor is apart, the rods are filthy cheap... why not change em for a couple hundred! Cheap insurance if ive ever seen it.

Yeah Id go the GTR rods with new ARP bolts. I had mine shot peened, resized and linished - but for all that you can buy new forged rods. So prob just use the GTR rods with new bolts.

ACL and there double spiral locks - what a pain in the arse they are.

I HAVE ARIAS PISTONS & THE RINGS ARE SHOT AFTER ABOUT 25000 KLM THE RINGS ARE SHIT GET SOME TOTAL SEAL RINGS TNT TYPE INSTEAD. I HAD THE SAME SETUP AS YOUR ABOUT TO DO A I GOT APPROX 260RWKW @ 18 PSI GOOD LUCK

Some one didnt let them bed in properly :(

30psi, 500rwhp on arias piston... they work!

GTR Rods are what you want, with good rod bolts.

You dont need to fork out for big $$$ rods, no need.

$400 at the absolute worst, so they are very cheap, and extremely worthwhile, good for 300rwkw easily.

you tell me? ur the one referring GTR Rods..

man ur quick on the replies, respect! :(

i HAVE read the first post, im just answering ur question to why i was talkin about the bottom end being good for 300rwkw..

now we can all go and stick our heads in a canape and sing kumbaya!

:S

man ur quick on the replies, respect! :(

i HAVE read the first post, im just answering ur question to why i was talkin about the bottom end being good for 300rwkw..

now we can all go and stick our heads in a canape and sing kumbaya!

:S

Dan, ill have a race for you if you ever come up to Darwin again, lol. On a safe tune what kind of power could i expect, this has already blown way out of budget so if im looking at 250 to 270rwkw then i prolly wont bother with rods. Also had timing belt replaced 300km before motor leaned out, so would the standard Nissan timing belt be ok.

GTR rods definately be a better decision because for the price you can get them it's a safer decision, it's what I'm getting! Sizing & balancing while it's all getting done at once too. Also a N1 oil pump instead of a standard one would be a decent upgrade as well.

I also had my timing belt replaced about 2000k's before mine popped, but I've been told a heavy duty belt would just be a safer option, also good while it's there & opened :(

Dan, ill have a race for you if you ever come up to Darwin again, lol. On a safe tune what kind of power could i expect, this has already blown way out of budget so if im looking at 250 to 270rwkw then i prolly wont bother with rods. Also had timing belt replaced 300km before motor leaned out, so would the standard Nissan timing belt be ok.

Haha damien your funny, brodie told me yours poppped, do not get hi tech to tune it lol. and my power goals are a bit more than your mate lol. got a whole new set up now lol. just buy a gates timing belt mate thre 110 bucks and good investment.

things to definatly get:

idler tensioner; $100

new bolts for the idler tensioner: $15 (very imporatant to replace)

get race bearings too

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