C210 Manual Conversion And Engine Rebuild.

[NISMO]

Hi guys,

I want to do a manual conversion on my C210 coupe. Can anyone help me out and advise where I can find all the parts needed and what is needed?

I've decided to keep the 2.4 motor, so won't need anything super strong.

Also where is a good place to get the motor rebuilt? again not looking to be rebuilt with huge power, just a rebuild to make it run as good as possible and will probable also add a twin carb set up, and maybe update the exhaust and headers. somewhere in south west sydney would be great.

finally anyone have an idea on what the rebuild would cost.

A little while ago I posted about transforming the car into track only, but for some weird reason I really enjoy driving the old girl, and so will keep it street, but want the best out of the car. Once the above is done, I'll look at suspension upgrade, and new coat of paint. Interior is in really good nic, so nothing planned there.

Thanks Guys

[paulmac]

well i got quoted $950 for a rebuild in S.A with flat top pistons which was a great deal somewhere around the grand mark but you might get lucky and perhaps find an l24E on ebay for $200 which there was not too long ago with only 110,000kms on it

Paul.

[V8skylineMAN]

Ok, well i was going to say factor on about $1000 for a basic rebuild with flat tops, forgies will cost about $1000 on top of that.

Get some minor portwork done around the bowls(about 400 more) and a mid sized cam.

Balancing is a good idea on the old Lseries, they are a rough old motor at the best of times.

As far as fuel supply goes, a set of webers is ideal but SU's(or CD strombergs) will suffice, failing these carb setups an old weber off a falcon isnt a bad little upgrade, but the inlet manifold will restrict you....maybe a 280C manifold will be larger, i never tried it.

A set of extractors and a 2.5in exhaust will have the whole package sounding tough and going quite well too.

Manual Conversion List:

Manual box(duh)

clutch pedal and all springs/pivots/clips

clutch master cylinder

master to slave pipe

slave cylinder

spigot bush(for in the end of the crankshaft....12 bucks i thinks from nissan)

flywheel

mmmmmm....i think thats all

if you are going to do this yourself, don't forget to pull the cap off the end of the crankshaft, or your flywheel wont fit.

cheers, jason

[aarc240]

OK, this is actually for C110 not C210 but there isn't that much difference under the skin!

have a look at

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20145

Lachlan has been there done that etc etc

[coupe72001]

Some invaluable advice... You will need nuts and bolts.

Problem with the auto and manual gearbox swap; neither your new master cylinder, nor your manual box, may come with the necessary bolts to hold the master cylinder to the side of the box! Same with flywheel bolts... and a few others that I cant think off at the moment.

Access to a wreck/sympathetic wrecker will help you with this problem... I got badly caught out when I attempted this swap over $3 worth of bolts! (slaps forehead). The crankshaft cap made me cry as well... until I slid it off the back of the engine with my hand.

[NISMO]

Thanks Guys for all the info, as usuall much appreciated.

Now for the fun question - anyone have any idea where i can pick up the gearbox and peddle box from? Or is it easier to simply add a clutch peddle to the current brake and accel. peddles?

I'm pretty much ready to buy now, so if anyone see's anything anywhere please let me know.

Also if there's anyone on here from sydney who has done the conversion before and would like to be paid to do the conversion please PM me with a price. I'm about to start building a house (owner builder) so time will be scarce.

Thanks Again

Bobby

[coupe72001]

Hang a clutch pedal (and spring) off the end of the fulcrum - no need to swap the whole pedal box. The cluctch master cylinder bolts up to the clutch pedal through a hole in the firewall. The hole has a little cap bolted over it at present.

Sometimes C210/240k gearboxes pop up on the OZ DAT website, and on datsun parts on ebay. Be wary of quality though - my 2nd-hand box only lasted about 6 months!!! I'd find a reco'd box and save yourself the pain of having to rebuild it soon after.

happy shopping!

[Blue Dynamite]

well i got quoted $950 for a rebuild in S.A with flat top pistons which was a great deal somewhere around the grand mark but you might get lucky and perhaps find an l24E on ebay for $200 which there was not too long ago with only 110,000kms on it

Paul.

I thought all L24 blocks came with flat-top pistons stock. I'm probably thinking strictly of MR30's though, but if you're going to go through the trouble of having an engine rebuilt for a grand then you may as well look into getting a 280zx engine/block (one with flat-top pistons) and with an N47 head and get him to rebuild that with efi.

neways dats my 2c.

Rick.

[paulmac]

I thought all L24 blocks came with flat-top pistons stock. I'm probably thinking strictly of MR30's though, but if you're going to go through the trouble of having an engine rebuilt for a grand then you may as well look into getting a 280zx engine/block (one with flat-top pistons) and with an N47 head and get him to rebuild that with efi.

neways dats my 2c.

Rick.

doesnt the n47 have exhaust liners which restricts the exhaust flow??

[SteveL]

doesnt the n47 have exhaust liners which restricts the exhaust flow??

Yes, and it's basically a USA only head with round exhaust ports....never seen one in Oz, and beats me why anyone would bother, even if you could find one.

A far better choice is to get hold of an R30 Skyline E88 head, which has bigger valves and ports than the stock E30 head from a C210, plus will give more-or-less the same CR. It's a bolt-on proposition.

[Blue Dynamite]

Yes, and it's basically a USA only head with round exhaust ports....never seen one in Oz, and beats me why anyone would bother, even if you could find one.

A far better choice is to get hold of an R30 Skyline E88 head, which has bigger valves and ports than the stock E30 head from a C210, plus will give more-or-less the same CR. It's a bolt-on proposition.

I've heard that too, but I asked a mate who's worked on and with both N47's, N42's and E-series type heads and he reckons it doesn't take much to make them one of the best street heads for L-series dattos out there. Allot of that is mere speculation and not actual practice. Once you port it and get rid of that shit it becomes extremely good apparently.

You should be able to get one from a later model R30 (1983-84 model).

I've got an L28 block with flattop pistons lined up with an N47 head, probably build it in 3-6months, I'll tell ya how it goes then. Should get pretty close to 180-190 Flywheel horsepower after it's ported etc as opposed to the shitty 124FW-HP it's allegadly got atm. Probably wont be doing the cam though.

Edited October 7, 2006 by Blue Dynamite

[SteveL]

've got an L28 block with flattop pistons lined up with an N47 head, probably build it in 3-6months, I'll tell ya how it goes then. Should get pretty close to 180-190 Flywheel horsepower after it's ported etc as opposed to the shitty 124FW-HP it's allegadly got atm. Probably wont be doing the cam though.

Don't want to offend you, but this just proves my point. I've had an L28 in my 260Z for a long time with a very mildly ported N42 (really just a cleanup) + flat-top pistons. It puts out 230+HP at the flywheel (and that's real HP measured on an engine dyno). If I put a 76deg cam in it plus did a full port and valve job, 250+ HP is well on the cards (actually, we've built L28's with much higher output, but the mods are more involved). There's just no need to go to these obscure heads.....apart from anything else, getting round port extractors would require sourcing from the US or custom made.

In any event, this is getting OT for the OP, as I said, an E88 from an R30 will be more than adquate, esp if the rest of the engine is to be left fairly standard.

[racsov500]

Thanks Guys for all the info, as usuall much appreciated.

Now for the fun question - anyone have any idea where i can pick up the gearbox and peddle box from? Or is it easier to simply add a clutch peddle to the current brake and accel. peddles?

I'm pretty much ready to buy now, so if anyone see's anything anywhere please let me know.

Also if there's anyone on here from sydney who has done the conversion before and would like to be paid to do the conversion please PM me with a price. I'm about to start building a house (owner builder) so time will be scarce.

Thanks Again

Bobby

clutch pedal bolts straight into the auto pedal box. just cut the auto pedal, even so the clutch pedal will fit witht e normal auto pedal