Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well i have decided to buy a powerFC for my 1992 R32 GTSt (RB20DET) so i looked on nengun.com cauz they have great reviews from everyone here so far.

but i seem to be confused on witch one i have to get.

APEXi - Power FC & Hand Controller - AP Engineering

or

APEXi - Power FC & Hand Controller - Pro Spec

I dont know the difference and they both say RB20. So the question is which one should i/have to get??

And how much is postage and handeling, or any other charges for nengun cauz i sent email 3 weeks ago and havent recived reply.

Thanks,

Fugi

you can buy either, its upto you

both do the same job

read the powerfc faq (in my signature) for the differences between the normal powercfc, the ap engineering model and the power fc pro versions.

the price on nengun includes shipping usually, if you are logged in and set your location preferences. it should take around 2 weeks for delivery.

Hi mate I recieved my Power FC from nengun on friday. It cost me $1912 delivered to my door which included a hand controller and nismo rising rate fuel regulator. The only down side was the wait, it took nearly a month because the power FC needed to go to AP Engineering for adjustment and nengun had no shelf stock. But i was totally happy with his service and prompt replys to e-mails (i'm a registered member). I would totally refer him as a good person to deal with and great prices. I installed the computer this morning myself and bang first kick she started :ninja: so I'm totally stoked.

yeah nengun dont hold any stock of any powerfc units

but the delay with the ap engineering units is that they have to goto ap eng to be modified to suit rb20 so theres an extra delay

Yea i ended up buying a ap engineering one from a supplier on this fourm. ended up costing me $1480 and he said i would recive in about 5-10 days.

also paulr33, i came across your powerfc faq's befor i came and cheacked this so it was were i got all my answer's from. thanks heaps very helpful.

Thanks for replys guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oof, I will forevermore have those shredded gears in mind whenever someone talks about showing mechanical sympathy towards their car. Thanks for the photos, fascinating stuff!
    • Curious to see how the SpeedTek stuff holds up
    • The holdups last year were drivetrain related. I had the car out right after getting the bearing issue resolved. Third launch and the car didn't move after releasing the clutch. It had sheared all the engagement teeth off the 1st gear.    Thankfully no other damage was done. I set an aftermarket gear beside an OEM gear and found that the engagement teeth on the OEM gear were much larger and better supported. Looking through my bin of spare transmission gears I found that there are two types of tooth on the OEM first gears - the larger tooth and the smaller tooth. It looks like most aftermarket gearset manufacturers base their design on the smaller tooth. OEM large tooth left - Speedtek, OS Giken, etc or OEM small tooth right Decided to give that larger engagement tooth a try. Pressed the ring off an OEM gear and sent it to a transmission manufacturer here in the States. They did their "faceplating" operation with my synchro ring on the Speedtek gear.   I reassembled it, took it back to the track and promptly destroyed the gear itself.  I'll rebuild this and use it as a spare - thankfully just first gear and the countershaft are damaged beyond repair. Definitely disheartening but my welded on engagement tooth ring held up!  Moved to Speedtek's dog engagement design as the gears appear to be much stronger. So far they have taken much more abuse at the track. Also scored a Stillway lockout from the Netherands for super cheap. It's for some other RB transmission so it took a bit of fabrication to fit but honestly a very easy job. I also had to heavily modify the gates as they were very different.   Then for some reason at the last test and tune a silicon coupler below the throttle blew off and took out the radiator and fan. Thankfully it was in the burnout box and not down track. This car is really beating me up - I still haven't made a pass in it. Ran it through the gears many times on the street but it keeps biting me at the track.  Currently in the process of replacing the radiator and remaking the throttle pipe to remove the coupler and use a cast 90 and a vband. I WILL get this thing down the track...
    • Covers most of the above points really. There's a few exceptions but most just see driving as an irritating but necessary task they must complete if they want to get anywhere on time. Also see it as a good time to show their awesome multi-tasking abilities on their mobile and/or doing their makeup.  
    • I don't believe I posted pictures of the second oil pump pickup I added so here they are. Data shows it gets oil pressure up to the relief pressure much earlier in the RPM. Is that important? Not likely... This was just another attempt to fix the bearing issues.   I also heavily opened up the inlet to the pump since it now had to flow oil from two pickups. I believe the diameter increased about 1/8".
×
×
  • Create New...