Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thing is.. according to the dyno graph, it only runs lean up top, and by then its already made most of its power...

so its power isn't really coming from the fact that its running lean...

in other words, the rb20 is makign power for another reason. because its just in really good condition? possibly..

rb20 ftw!!!!!!!!!!

where's Roy? he'll jump in here soon for some rb20 lovin :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/2/#findComment-2566222
Share on other sites

Yeah im going to get a new Fuel Pump very soon. Then finish the zorst off with a 3 inch Front/Dump pipe and Hi Flow Cat. Raise the boost to 14psi and get a tune. Should be sweet then :D

Thats pretty good Matty boy! Now take it down the drags :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/2/#findComment-2566235
Share on other sites

Yea well im so glad to see a rb20 with those results. I own a rb20 my self and have basic mods and bout a power fc and one of those turbotech BC try it out and get it dyno'd.. but yea i dont think i will get those results ill post them up. i think your one of those guys with freak engins. lucky c**t.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/2/#findComment-2567426
Share on other sites

Yeah it is running lean but the power is still up there before it starts running lean...

I might get some new tyres next week and take it down the 1/4 Mile :)

MATT nice work and it does look at 150km's you hit the limit of the fuel pump, BUT there is a posible little thing you can do to help will the fuel pump until you can replace it. That is to run a good heavy gauge power supply wire to your fuel pump as the standard system normally has to much volt drop across it (meaning your not getting full 14v charge volts to the pump) you can use the exist power system to switch a relay controlling the heavy gauge if you like and also ground the pump well. This is not a total solution but can offen gain quiet abit of exa performance out of the exist pump and will definitely help went the new pump going in. (voltage to torque ratio is a square root relationship meaning a little voltage drop will lose a lot of torque).

As for be lean BS running 12:1 through the majority of the power range is great and safe, and at only 12psi you could quiet easily run leaner without a problem. The only problem is the lean out trend at the end as you have already identified.

pete

ps i run 12:1 at 500 to 530rwhp for 2 years at 18 to 20psi no problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/2/#findComment-2567674
Share on other sites

Nice result! I pulled 195.4rwkw in my 32 and thought I was doing well... but you don't even have a fuel pump or tuned ecu!! Must be happy about that.

yeap, and you must be happy about the wanker dyno operator giving you bullshit figures.

Unless your factory ECU has been remapped, and the turbo either high flowed or replaced with a RB25 turbo, then your figure is bullshit.

I bet any of these "figures" are barely able to pull over 100mph down the quarter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/2/#findComment-2570522
Share on other sites

ok matt is running an r34 steel wheel turbo and i was there it did pull that power and have been in the car and it feels as quick as mine, i have an r32 with an rb25 making 197 rwkw. i have no doubt that the dyno is reading correct

It was also run at the pole position dyno day so i doubt they mucked the figure up when my car was run before matt and a soarer ran after matt and power figures for both my car and the soarer were around what they expected.

Edited by kamakazi
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/2/#findComment-2570603
Share on other sites

yeap, and you must be happy about the wanker dyno operator giving you bullshit figures.

Unless your factory ECU has been remapped, and the turbo either high flowed or replaced with a RB25 turbo, then your figure is bullshit.

I bet any of these "figures" are barely able to pull over 100mph down the quarter.

Mafia it sounds like your really f**ken Jealous of my RB20! Just becasue your RB25 wont produce that much power on those mods doesnt mean you have to have a cry!

And if you actually READ! I wrote that I have a R34 Turbo!! How about you put up your Dyno reading and your Mods and lets see what you get?

Edited by r32matt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/2/#findComment-2570670
Share on other sites

Thats an awesome result. Must be a relatively fresh engine. My question is how much difference in power output could there be between a fresh engine and an engine thats starting to get tired? In fact i started a thread about it!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=138087

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/2/#findComment-2570995
Share on other sites

Your questioning Hyperdrive's (im guessin as its in Malaga) dyno??

It use's shootout mode and is known as a very realistic dyno, doesn't read high at all dude.

Its well known that shootout mode applies some exceptionally poor correction making results higher than they should be.

demit, how come i get 167, with more mods, on 14 psi, on a engine that so many people have told me is in really good nick.

because yours is realistic dude :)

I'd reckon you both would run extremely similar times down the track...

And same dyno same day, you'd both have power figures close to each other :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/2/#findComment-2571022
Share on other sites

Mafia it sounds like your really f**ken Jealous of my RB20! Just becasue your RB25 wont produce that much power on those mods doesnt mean you have to have a cry! Did you want a tissue?

And if you actually READ! I wrote that I have a R34 Turbo!! How about you put up your Dyno reading and your Mods and lets see what you get?

Im going to the drags very soon and when I get my quarter mile time it will give you something else to cry about!!!

He isnt having a cry about anything and he actually owns a rather quick car and knows what you need to do to achieve that sort of power... He is being realisitcs considering your modifications. So either there is more there that you are unaware about or its possible the reading is incorrect.

Edited by fEkuaR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/2/#findComment-2571087
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
×
×
  • Create New...