Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone help with pictures of their dry sump sump modifications. I am currently building a setup and have seen numerous setups but want to see an rb26 one that has been modified.

I have read the previous posts on dry sumps but no pics were posted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137799-dry-sump-setup-pics/
Share on other sites

I have some pics of a Nismo GT500 engine from the last of the JGTC R34 GTRs that I took at nismo omori factory. They show the pump set-up and bracket, and some lines etc.

here you go you picture hungry animals. threw in a few nismo engine pics to make up for the slowness.

NISMO JGTC RB26 DRY SUMP SET-UP:

picture789hx1.jpg

picture792gy8.jpg

picture786gt8.jpg

picture791vj9.jpg

picture788qt7.jpg

picture790ir1.jpg

now that i see it's on a little dolly i should have wheeled it home :w00t:

lol, one day my son. one day.

There is so much to learn from that motor. I could stare at it for a fair while.

here's a couple more nismo motors:

NISMO S-TUNE MOTOR

picture778ay2.jpg

NISMO NUR SPORT MOTOR

picture802xv1.jpg

I think this one was an N-spec or production racing motor, definately some kind of race motor, but not as wild as the JGTC spec motor:

picture805tr5.jpg

NISMO F-SPORT MOTOR (RB28):

picture777bx5.jpg

NISMO R-TUNE MOTOR in it's natural habitat :O

picture820ui9.jpg

And the grand daddy of street set-ups: The NISMO Z-TUNE MOTOR in it's natural habitat:

picture832tq2.jpg

I'd have to say Nismo never fails to please.

*yes, they are all pics taken by me at Nismo, Omori, Japan.

So where is the oil , in a dry sump set up....I'am confused :)

Dam this mods.....

In a dry sump setup the oil is stored away from the block in a seperate reservoir. The oil cycles around the engine and back through the reservoir giving the oil to cool (whilst being away from the heat in the engine) before it re-enters the engine.

More here if you're interested: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question331.htm

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
    • Not required but appreciated. Super Coppermix Twin even the non-competition model feels like the pedal is noticeably heavier than stock which was pretty well judged IMO. I'll be swapping in the Nismo operating cylinder soon to see how that feels.  Personally I haven't felt anything that justifies replacing the damping loop, at least compared to more modern stuff where the clutch delay valve is actually quite noticeable.
    • He made that comment in my thread - In my case the vents ARE to lower engine heat, when the car is not moving, which is the only scenario I have heat problems with the aircon on, sitting in traffic, on 40C+ days. I can't imagine a scenario that this NC needs any at this point in time. I do not know if it will actually make my cooling when the car is MOVING worse, and I sincerely hope that won't be the case. If it does, well, um, f**k.
    • Nice, thanks. Thats why I was asking, there'd been a fair bit of discussion in the E90 world about vents and where it makes sense to put one (ie, over the filters is not great as that is inline or slightly behind the struts and in higher pressure area). I struggle with air flow and pressures. It sill weirds me out that a radiator in the boot can work. 
    • Neither really Vents, when located in the right place, will lower the engine bay "pressure", as air has a path to escape, thus lowering the engine bay pressure, thus.....improving the efficiency on the coolant stack (read: IC, condenser, radiator) This is why the Blits vented bonnet on my 33 worked so well, the vent was in the front 1/3 of the bonnet, which put it right after the radiator  If the vents are to far back toward the windscreen, which is a high pressure zone, it can actually force air into the engine bay, causing higher pressure and effectively loosing efficiency on the cooling stack, like the fab of raising the rear of the bonnet, which does allow heat to escape, but only when the car isn't moving  There's heaps of cool "fluid dynamics" info out there, but, I'll attach a video of a 'Merican joint that focuses on "Miatas" as I found it when looking into vents for mine, they explain it way better than me  
×
×
  • Create New...