BLoody HICAS problem

[Doctor]

Read all of the post on this topic.

I have lost my power steering, Hicas and my Hicas light stays on whilst driving.

I have checked all of the fuses, fluids etc but to no avail.

I heard the steering soleniod can fail causing similiar symptoms.

Please help as it is giving me the ****s.

Doc

[Doctor]

By the way I seem to get electric shocks whilst hopping out of the car now. Never before has this happend. It thinking its causing a problem with my inectors or something to make the car surge

[NIZ180]

there aren't to many workshops that are clued up on the hicas thing. Although I have heard Gavin Wood here in Qld knows a **** load. Sorry couldn't help anymore. BTW my car shocks me all the freakin time

[Mick]

Doc, put you car into hicas diagnostic mode, it will tell you exactly what is not workin ..

[2fardown]

Originally posted by NIZ180

there aren't to many workshops that are clued up on the hicas thing. Although I have heard Gavin Wood here in Qld knows a **** load.  Sorry couldn't help anymore. BTW my car shocks me all the freakin time

I hate when my car shocks me!....my have to install one of those black strips that drag along on the road to stop it haha.

Oh yeah and about the HICAS problem...do what Mick said and go into diagnostic mode.

[NismoGirl]

Well I know how you feel Doctor.

When we bought our car the HICAS light was on. For months the car yard had it and to no avail.

Took the car to Gavin Woods and within 10 minutes.. The problem was diagnosed.

Have you noticed any performance problems? Cutting out at sets of lights?? Steering gets hard after about 3 minutes of driving??

WELL they were our problems and it ended up being the wire running from the speedo to computer wasn't connected. Now that is connected and everything is working. HICAS and it was cutting out at sets of lights because the computer didn't know how fast we were going making the speed sensor all confused.

But I thoroughly recommend Gavin Woods at Auto Tech. Hes in Labrador. I can't praise him enough.

[/plug]

[adam 32]

are you talking about the main ECU or the HICAS ECU?

[Doctor]

Car started to run like **** at the same time. Car has started to surge whilst driving and almost stalls. Might be something to look at. Thanks for the advise.

By the way I imagine you what computer are you talking about Hicas or engine managment.

Thanks again,

Doc

[NismoGirl]

Engine Management.. The thing thats in quarter panel on the floor in the passeger side of the car.

But we've got a spare HICAS computer is anyone needs one!

[Mick]

Doc, there is a Main ECU Diagnostic Mode, and there is also a HICAS Diagnostic Mode whick checks the HICAS computer and tells you whats not workin ..

Here is the r32 diag mode

1.) Switch ingition off, transmission in neutral or auto in Park.

2.) Start engine then very quickly (with a couple of seconds), turn the steering wheel left and right about 20 degrees from centre five times, and then pump the brakes five times, then press the brake pedal once more - this will enter diagnostic mode.

3.) Drive forwards or backwards about 5 metres at a speed less than 10k/ph, this will enter full diagnostic mode.

4.) The HICAS light in the instrument cluster will be flashing quickly (for normal) or will flash a code indicating any problems.

Long flash = first digit

Short flash = second digit.

eg. 2 long flashes followed by 3 sort flashes would be Code 23

Codes are as follows:

11 HICAS control unit

12 HICAS motor power supply not present

13 HICAS motor output not present

21 Vehicle speed sensor not present

22 Steering angle sensor not present

23 Steering angle sensor neutral or not present

24 Rear main sensor input not present

25 Rear sub sensor input not present

31 Parking brake sensor input not present

32 (Auto) Inhibititor switch input not present

(Manual) Neutral switch input not present

33 Engine speed signal not present

Diagnostics will return to normal after five minutes, or any speed over 10k/ph, or ingnition is turned off.

Make sure you do this a few times to make sure you get the correct code.

[Doctor]

g'day Mick,

I tried that about 20 times. Do you think because of that speed sensor wire could be broken I would not be able to get into diagnostic mode as the car thinks it stationary when you need to move a couple of metres.

Thanks Nismogirl, will give it a go. Let you know how I go.

Doc

[Mick]

umm yer, but does your speedo work thoe ?

did u cut wire 53 to remove speed limiter ?

[Doctor]

No haven't cut 53. I just took out the dash and had a look around. Nothing to report.

You know the funiiest thing is, the car runs really really rough when the bonnet is up, but when I put it back down it runs a bit better. It not justa figment of my imagination either.

It sounds like there is something shorting out near the injector loom, but I'm buggered if I can find it.

Nismogirl can you tell me where the wire was severed in the loom.So I'm not going on a wild goose chase.

Thanks again,

Doc

[NismoGirl]

The car yard was telling us that it was a cut wire

It wasn't

Its just that the wire running from the Speedo to the computer isn't attached. But the wire running from the gear box to the speedo was working which meant our speedo was still working.

Doctor.. is your speed limiter working?? that is another indication it might be this wire. Our speed limiter wasn't working when we had the HICAS problem.. but now its all fixed.. it is.

Sometimes this is also an indication that your speedo has been fiddled with and the wire hasn't been reconnected.

Try the speed limiter and see what happens

If not I suggest you take it to Gavin Woods (If hes not to far away). Didn't cost us much..

[Doctor]

Thanks heaps for your help Mick & Nismogirl, I really appreciate it.

I'll let you know how I fare.

Doc

[Mick]

Yer ive done lots of lighting mods to m dash and i know how it can be tempramental, the circuit board on the back is a thin flexible plastic like crap, so when u put the plugs back in u have 2 hame sure the circuit board terminals for the plugs are lined up with them. I attached a pic of tha back of the dash, u can see 3 seperate plug sockets, these terminals can move sightly to the left and right, so u have to make sure that when u put the plugs into these sokets that te terminals are inline ....

Hey also i just remembered something ....

When my battery in the boot exploded in my face a while back and i thougt i might have fried the hicas computer, the first ting i done after installing a new battery was to run the hicas diag on it.... I tried for ages to get it into diag mode but it just wouldnt work .... anyways what it was is that the instructions to get it into diag made it sound like u had to turn it L,R,L,R,L,R,L,R,L,R (left 5 times & rigt 5 times) all u have to do realy is jerk it 5 times, from center QUICKLY jerk it left right left right left and put it back to center, if u dont finish it by puting it back to te center it wont work (im not 100% sure but i think the hicas light will do something to tell u tat u have done it right) ten just rev back 5mtrs and it should start flashin. If u manage 2 get it workin and it flashes the code 22 or 23 (one of the two, carnt remember) anyways just move the steering wheel a bit more to try center it a bit better and that error code will stop.

Have u checked to make sure your hicas computer is plugged in properly ? Might as well unplug it totaly and then plug it back up ....

There are lots of things i can think of to do to find out what is dead of fixable ...

Where abouts are you from Doc ?

[Doctor]

Thanks mick,

Just Jap helped me swap the computer over to see if it was that. It wasn't. I will give the diag another go. By the way I am from Sydney.

Doc

[NismoGirl]

Did I mention i've got a spare HICAS computer too

[Doctor]

33 is a bit different to 32.Yours is more electronically assisted.

Thanks anyways.

Doc