Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dunno, allwell updates are as follows, pulled everything off today left and right side of motor. Injectors, rail manifold turbo, lines front/dump pipe, replaced the manifold studs awaiting the gasket from 3lit3_32 (aka Dan) tommorow and should have everything bolted back together by tommorow evening, I have to admit its an experience of a life time when ya first do a job like this, especially thos broken manifold studs and removing the fuel rail for the injectors.

Will take some pics when the job is done, HOPEFULLY with no bolts missing or left over cough cough i hate when that happens. But so far so good.

For those noting on broken manifold studs, Im too lazy to do this part myself also noted do not have the tools to do it mind you.

But if you are in the brisbane QLD region Thread Tek are the way to go (1300 THREAD) they may take all afternoon to get there, but 15 minutes for them to remove 3 manifold studs well worth it. Only problem $99.00 to remove those 3 studs, awell had to be done thanks guys.

Also Lees exhaust on moss street, $1.00 per manifold stud being the M10 x 1.25 pitch 50mm and 50c per nut, well worth it beats repco anyday for those parts. :)

Also must thank Dan (3lit3_32) for his assistance so far and being able to get parts at a hard to beat price :) hope i can add that.

Anyway that is all and will keep you guys posted

Cheers and out

Adam

Ok so my compression values are in and leak down values what do you guys think:

Cyl1: 155 8%

Cyl2: 155 9%

Cyl3: 150 10%

Cyl4: 155 12%

Cyl5: 150 12%

Cyl6: 155 9%

Since last dyno made 178.9 rwkws before front pipe install so still running standard front pipe and dump

Also did power run whilst doing comp values to see if still in tune, seems that it is and with the new front pipe being the 3" complete front and dump comes to a new value of 197.3 rwkws.

The difference in IT's was 39 before and new of 41 with this one

So i think it would be safe to say that my project should be done mid november now :) woohoo

Cheers

Adam

no offence man, but those leakdown figures are bad.

Mine was no more than 3% after 100,000km, and 10,000km of that was with a GT30 at 18psi, and 40,000km was with the standard turbo making 210rwkw with toluene at 13psi. All cylinders were above 160psi - but your compression is ok...Jus the leakdown...its not good...Well thats just me.

You might want to get a rebuild before you start moving to cams etc.

You'll get HEAPS more power by putting in forgies, rods, and lowering the compression a tiny bit to run more boost.

Cams won't do that much difference at this stage, but make your motor wear a little quicker.

Edited by The Mafia
  • 3 weeks later...

Well results are in, 244.2 rwkws on 11 psi, and then tack tack tack, suspect bearings or pins, god damn awell rebuild time :D yay the saying goes expect the unexpected, so more results will follow, off to dan for rebuild :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
×
×
  • Create New...