Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yea, i'll go for the copper ones then. Thanks, wolverine and rev210!

rev210: NGK BCPR6ES are 6's, right? My current ones are 5.. which is why i want to replace them.

SITC... hmm. Are there any other companies which still manufacture them? It looks like a pretty neat tuning tool.

Edited by shoebox
  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You are quite wrong to assume that a 600x300x75 core is the right size for stock turbo equiped gtst. It isn't by a long shot. Granted the factory intercoolers core isn't great design wise and can be improved on but, the physical size of the core is pretty close to the right size for the airflow needs of a street/strip gtst.

when you and dozens of other skyline owners tell the world about going noticably better,I point you to the 'real world' measurements that say otherwise. Like peoples 1/4 mile times as basic indication of road going accelleration changes.

Bottom line is people have used the factory intercooler on stock turbo's to run into 12's. Conversly there is a very common phenomina of front mount equiped gtst's going slower than a stock car.

Go here to learn some facts you can apply to any intercooler equiped car. www.are.com.au

well the problem is that you have forgotten the fact that once the throttle is fully open and you are at full boost the stock cooler usually flows less than most front mounts. this means that the turbo has to work harder to flow the same amount of air.

also to compare a car with a front mount with to a completely different car with a front mount at the drags is pointless. to compare times you would have to have the same driver in the same car and do multiple runs with the stock cooler vs the front mount and work off average times. i'm yet to hear of anyone go to the drags with the stock cooler then go with a fmic and run slower, then put the stock cooler back on and run faster again.

i'm sure there are people getting into the 12's with the stock cooler, but there are also people doing it with a front mount.

all the size of a cooler changes is response.

the drag strip comparsion is not pointless at all

it is if you are comparing 2 different cars with 2 different setups, with 2 different drivers. there are too many factors. tyres, suspension, tyre pressure, clutch, rpm launched at, compression of the motor, etc.

here's an example. 2 cars run at the drags. 1 runs a 10.46 @ 131.3mph with a 60ft of 1.66

another car runs a 11.36 @ 119.3mph with a 60ft time of 1.648.

does this mean that the second car is more powerful because it got a better 60ft time? no it just means it got a better launch.

This is a quote from something SydneyKid once told me...

"It’s simple maths, if the engine is making 30% more power (= 30 % more airflow) then you can have 30% more volume in the inlet system and have the same response"

So with this logic if you are going to get a front mount make sure its one suited to your mods, power levels, psi etc & you cant go wrong but if you do like alot of people seem to do & get a massive front mount & piping suited to something with much more power than you have it will be an overkill an you might loose throttle response with little or no gains

My rule of thumb for intercoolers on a R33 GTST are. If you plan to keep the stock turbo (no high flowing etc.) The R34 GTT cooler is a good choice as its efficient for 200rwkw, cheep, easy to install, and you don’t sacrifice any throttle response.

This is not to say you wont benefit slightly from a larger cooler at this power level but the trade of is throttle response. Fact is though I didn’t find the response much different between the stocker and my hybrid super monster but many other people have noted a difference.

I believe the reason people sometimes find that the car is slower after the bigger intercooler install is the fact that it runs extra rich the ecu sees way more air and richens the mixtures. Get your AFR's sorted then you will notice a huge difference. The intercooler plus tune made a huge difference to my car.

Sure people have run 12's using the stock cooler, but what tires where they using, what suspension setup did they have, how good was the driver, what were the track conditions, there is much more to drag racing than power.

To do this properly get a car, same driver, suspention, tires, track conditions, stock cooler with engine management tuned to suit extra boost, exhaust etc. have 5 runs take the average time.

Keeping everything the same exept for a upgraded cooler and a ECU tune to suit the extra air flow. 5 runs take the average time.

Ill bet my bottom dollar the car with the upgraded cooler will be signifitly quicker.

cheers

Edited by Munna1

ok, well if you read the fine print, he went slower because of more axle tramp, and he had a lighter flywheel. so you could blame the slower times on the flywheel, as he didn't adjust his driving style to take into account the performance difference. a lighter flywheel is more enclined to make the car bog down off the line as it has less inertia, and has less chance of the clutch slipping. so if you try to launch at the same rpm as you did before it is going to act differently.

so even though he had an extra 35 or so kw at the top end, the bigger cooler magically made the dyno readout lie? so on the dyno he had more power, but on the road it just magically dissapeared?

on the 3rd visit he had much more power and was suffering from wheelspin. is due to the fmic being too big and making the car have less power so that instead of having more power and more traction it has less power and less traction? i think not. and look, they were all done on different days. so the later days may have been hotter, or the track might not have been as sticky, there may have been an oil down, or there may have been a headwind, and he used different tyres for some of the runs, and on the last lot he had different suspension. the list of holes in your theory of it being caused by the intercooler goes on.

find me some 1/4 runs done back to back on the same day with no other mods other than the cooler and i'll believe them.

well untill you provide actual proof of a cooler making a car slower, there is no point.

here i quote the simpsons.

lisa: i could claim this rock keeps tigers away.

homer: how can a rock do that?

lisa: well do you see any tigers around?

homer: i would like to buy that rock from you

you have found some drag times that suit your story and just used them. if there were no other variables then it would work, but there are more variables that could make a bigger difference to the times than just an intercooler. the only constant is the driver and the basic car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • 12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...