Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice thread and dont worry, us auto boys have just as much fun as the manual guys! The only difference is we have a left hand to do what we please... be it eating a burger or fondling your girl's tits! :sorcerer:

Amen to that.

Theres nothing wrong with an auto skyline. I think if half these manual drivers actually been in one they would change their opinions.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Theres nothing wrong with an auto skyline. I think if half these manual drivers actually been in one they would change their opinions.

have been in 1. would much rather my manual one, unless i had big power, then i'd go auto (save frying clutches).

well for starters the ecu won't let you go above 180. secondly, no it won't break. it will just keep winding around.

Ah, okay. Then i'll have fun seeing it go round ^_^ I'm planning to fit in the hks speed limit defender to remove the 180 cap.

Auto's sweet! But i hate the way it wastes fuel and the strong engine brake, so maybe i'll put in a 5-gear auto transmission if i'm feeling rich enough, which is probably never :/

Just too bad that there aren't any aftermarket "plug-and-play" ecus for autos around... was reading how some guys try to fit an ecu to suit an auto car, and it looks seriously complicated.

Will I be breaking any QLD or VIC regulations (which includes making the car not roadworthy) if i fit in any of the listed mods?

For quick reference, they are:

1) Upgrading of intake: Apex'i Power Intake Kit.

2) Manual Boost controller.

3) HKS Speed Limit Defencer.

4) Replacing the intercooler with one from a R34 GT-T.

5) Changing the suspensions.

6) Spitfire coil packs.

7) Full turbo back x-force kit.

8) Changing of spark plugs.

9) Apex'i AFC Neo and SITC.

I'm pretty sure #5 and #11 are safe, but how about the rest? Anyone from QLD or VIC with the knowledge? I can't seem to find any guidelines or regulations regarding mods... :)

1) costs a fair bit for pretty much no gain at all (the often quoted jap review dyno was clearly done bonnet 'up'. You actually lose power if you don't spend even more money on a heat shield. I'd say leave that one for a little while.

2) yep. why not.

4) HKS speed thing'o , no need to do it yet and I'd just cut the ecu wire 53 from memory (do a search)

5) Yeah a good little mod. The core is a little bigger. Remove the panel in the wheel well behind the intercooler too for better airflow and make sure the ducting to the front of the little intercooler is there still. Bigger intercoolers on stock turbo's is a waste of money and more often than not your car will be slower.

6) For a start chuck some pineapples in the rear diff cradle. $100 better squat for better traction

7) unless yours are stuffed no need to get them, they are a nill gain on the stockish engine.

8) exhaust is a good move.

11) BPR6ES or BPR6ES-11's gapped down to 0.8mm

12) S-AFC II good little stepping stone.

Also consider a shift kit for the auto I think there is a group buy on them, perhaps a mild high stall as well.

All things being equal you ought to be able to get an auto R33 down the 1/4 mile a tad faster than the manual with shift kit and a stall in place.

Thanks rev210 and Munna1! Munna1, i've came across your site, and that's where i got the idea of replacing the intercooler with the R34 GT-T's! Great site!

There's a shift kit!?! I'll die to fit one on my car! *drools*

5) Yea, i was thinking of doing that. But... i'll be damaging the car, won't i?

6) I'm pretty new to this.. what do you mean by pineapples..?

7) Really? They cost a bomb too. Maybe i'll just throw them out from the list...

11) I got a quote of $260 for some platinium spark plugs... should i go platinium or stick with copper?

12) Why is everyone on SAU promoting safc2 when the afc neo's out? Is there something wrong with the newer model? By the way, both are compatible with autos too, right?

Edited by shoebox

I dont know where your going to be taking it over 180km/h regularly or at all, so I wouldnt bother spending money on that. Go the Exhaust - turbo back then Pod filter with a CAI box or even better a panel filter.

Thanks rev210 and Munna1! Munna1, i've came across your site, and that's where i got the idea of replacing the intercooler with the R34 GT-T's! Great site!

There's a shift kit!?! I'll die to fit one on my car! *drools*

5) Yea, i was thinking of doing that. But... i'll be damaging the car, won't i?

6) I'm pretty new to this.. what do you mean by pineapples..?

7) Really? They cost a bomb too. Maybe i'll just throw them out from the list...

11) I got a quote of $260 for some platinium spark plugs... should i go platinium or stick with copper?

12) Why is everyone on SAU promoting safc2 when the afc neo's out? Is there something wrong with the newer model? By the way, both are compatible with autos too, right?

Nothing wrong with the neo safc it just really isnt much better than the safc2 and you will find that these are cheeper. The NEO has a few more rpm tuning points and thats about it I think.

cheers

I dont know where your going to be taking it over 180km/h regularly or at all, so I wouldnt bother spending money on that. Go the Exhaust - turbo back then Pod filter with a CAI box or even better a panel filter.

Yea, i'm planning to go for the exhaust first. I don't think i'll go 180 often, but i don't like the idea of having a cap there... maybe its psychological. Even my friend's maxima could go up to 220... :)

Now i'm trying to decide between spending around $200 or to just cut a wire.

you won't be breaking any qld laws, but i'm not sure about vic laws. i know one of the southern states has a law that limits you to 1 intake mod. that means either cooler or filter.

as for a car being slower with a big front mount, that is a lie. i put a hybrid front mount cooler on my car and it goes noticably better. if you were just cruising along and punched it it picked up much better. sure it has to fill up more space with air, but a good cooler has less restriction, so once it has that space filled it will flow more air through.

shoebox, my car gets well over 430 KMs to a tank all the time... and i boot it as well.

city or highway? i get about 250k's to about 50L of spirited city driving.

and how many l's are you reffering to as a tank?

Edited by mad082
city or highway? i get about 250k's to about 50L of spirited city driving.

and how many l's are you reffering to as a tank?

A mix of both city and high way, city 70%, high way 30%.

Car is stock and auto.

Thats from full needle up the top down to the last line of the empty in my tank, however the light never came up, so I presume it still has another 10 or so litres left. I dont like to push my car till totally dry.

I'm stuck.

1) Apparently, Apex'i doesn't manufacture SITCs anymore... Anyone knows of a good SITC?

2) I've heard various responses regarding the upgrading of coil packs... how much difference is there between the stock coilpacks and an aftermarket one (like spitfire)?

3) If i were to only perform these mods, is upgrading the R33 stock intercooler to an R34 GT-T one necessary? I'm concerned about the blazing hot summers here...

1. apexi haven't made the SITC for ages. just search on ebay.

2. coil packs won't make much of a difference unless your old ones are dead.

3. depends on what boost you are planning on running. it does get a bit hot in brissy in summer, so prbably don't go past about 9-10psi on the stock cooler.

Not the first time I've been called a liar

lol, been doing it longer and better than most for the life of this forum too.

shoebox, listen to rev210 you will get a great result and save some money doing it.

Edited by wolverine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...