Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I don't. I change at 10,000km.

But your interval depends on the oil you are using, how hard you drive your car, what kind of air filter you use and how rich your car runs.

5,000km is a safe bet for most cars but sometimes overkill for others.

Well my car is completely stock, Synthetic MOBIL 1 oil and I dont really drive it hard, so yeah if its not really necessary then Ill wait till it hits 10000km.

Dont really know the maintance of a turbo car hance this is my first one, for the lude I just change it every 10000.

My car servicing people told me that every 10,000kms is ok for my car and its a stock r34 gt-t sedan. So far it has done 7000kms so far and no issues so i think it is ok.

But I have read alot of other people mentioning 5000kms on the dot but then again I spose its up to the owner as there appears to be nothing written in stone on this.

Drew.

My GTT have nearly done 5000km since Ive first import it, dont know if I should change it soon or wait till Ive done 10000. Just wondering if the majority of you guys change your oil every 5000km?

It actually depends, try to get hold of a UOA (used oil analysis) kit which someone here mention for $40 a shot. The analysis will tell you if the oil is good to go or not.

Edited by Trex101

I have always changed the oil and oil filter at the recommended intervals and use the best oil that I can afford.

I see this as good insurance and over the years it has paid off as every engine that I have pulled down has had minimal wear compared to what would be expected for the age.

I am currently using Motul Chrono 300v in my Skylines and after 5K it comes out cleaner and in better condition than most oils are when they go in.

I remember reading a UK thread years aga and everyone there was doing the same debate on the 5000 change...most people did do the 5000 change but they're in miles so realistically, that's every 8000/kms.

The '5' seems to be a magic figure.

..so anyway, i guess if you do every 5k, you will be damn safe, just have to figure out for yourself if it's overkill.

(I personally would go for 10k but thats me)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...