Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Every 5k for me, the car is a turbo, its old, every 5k oil change that costs $70 can maintain the engine and save me a $1500+ rebuild....

Oil is oil, your engine loves the fresh stuff, imagine it like this...

Every 5k - a shower a day

every10k - a shower every 2 days.....

i dont wana smell :laugh:

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The manual says 5000k's for a turbo's oil change and 10000k's for oil filters.

Totally insane to run new oil through a 5000k old filter that costs all of $10.00??????

No matter what, I never go near 5000k's, always less, and I do filters at 2500k's max with a top up to bring the dipstick level correct.

Anyone going to 10k's is just begging for lash adjuster problems.

The manual says 5000k's for a turbo's oil change and 10000k's for oil filters.

Totally insane to run new oil through a 5000k old filter that costs all of $10.00??????

No matter what, I never go near 5000k's, always less, and I do filters at 2500k's max with a top up to bring the dipstick level correct.

Anyone going to 10k's is just begging for lash adjuster problems.

Yikes, Im waiting for a new slogan: 5000 Kms is too much!!! Change at 1000 Km!!!

Why change the filter at 2,000km. If it really is full of junk at that stage, your engine has serious issues. Good quality filters are good for 10,000km.

Because I'm an old fart, been there done that etc.

I also know that with a blocked filter and even on cold start up, your system will run on by-pass quite happily re-circulating all the crap.

I advise anyone with the 10K filter mindset to cut up the occassional filter.

The cheapest insurance you'll ever get is a $10 oil filter.

Well I'm not here to tell people what to do but I reckon 2,000km changes is overkill! Yes a filter will go into bypass if its full of junk but as I mentioned, unless the engine has issues, a filter should not be full by 2,000km. Even then if the filter is plugged, by cutting it up you can't see anything anyway. Also when a filter goes into bypass, the debris is embedded into the media (unless you got chunks of metal!) so it shouldn't be going anywhere. Sorta like dipping a dirty shirt in a bucket of water.. the dirt just doesnt 'wash off' sorta thing.

yeah Busky2k is correct. 2k is actually worse than 10k...it wont start working for a while and not filter stuff properly as its being bypassed.

there is a lot of technical threads about how the filter works and why longer is better than shorter.

As for the whole 5k OCI...if u use a 300V or Redline ester based oil...again ur not letting the adatives do their thing...and hence just wasting valuable money. if ur gonna do it 5k under normal driving conditions just use a cheep oil.

Myth Busters needs a call on these..useing 10k OCIs on my car with redline, you should see how clean it is...no crud at all.

read this great info from BITG.

http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lub...on-oilpart4.htm

Cheers for the feedback guys, seems to me a majority of you guys change it at 5000km due to "better safe then sorry" saying. I guess Ill probably change it at 10000km and then 5000 and see how it goes since theres no hardcore evidance that you need to change it every 5000.

every ~5,000 or 6 months.. depending how i've been driving.. I only do 10k km's a year.. so it's easy!!..

there is more hardcore evidence that 10k + OCIs with good oil and a good filter is better than 5k...if ur concerned do a UOA on your oil and see how its going and dont guess....

  • 3 weeks later...

Is the Motul & Redline stuff really that good that you can get double the kays of other brands??? Seems a little optimistic to me. I may have to try it out just to see.

Think I'll be going a K&N filter if I do it though, not overly happy with the standard nissan filter. Started having major lifter rattle 1 day for several minutes after start up, was never a problem with the ryco's like that. Car's only done 4000 kays on the filter & oil (Elf Excellium 5W-50)

fully synthetic oils these days last much longer than mineral or semi synth oils. I don't recommend it, but you can probably leave it longer than 10,000 and still be protecting your engine properly.

I change my oil every 4,000kms or 6 months in a car that sees mostly track work these days. I also use genuine nissan oil filters, they are like $12-13

u shouldnt expect that when u first imported it, it was fresh oil either. when i got mine i changed the oil first thing, before i started using it.

but yea i have to agree with most, depends how u drive it, or how much u care about ur engines wear and tear.

i change mine every 2-4k and i drive it easy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...